If you’re trying to figure out how 6c+ in the Fontainebleau system converts to the V Scale or Yosemite Decimal System (YDS), the answer is pretty simple:
6c+ roughly equals V5/V6 in the Hueco V Scale and 5.12b/c in the YDS.
This guide breaks down why that is, how the grading systems compare, and what it means for your climbing.
Key Takeaways
- In the United States, V scale is the most commonly used bouldering grade. It goes from V0, the easiest, to V17, the hardest, and is distinct from the French sport climbing rating system, which employs ratings such as 6c+.
- Simply converting a 6c+ grade to the V scale would put it around V5, but real-world difficulty may differ depending on the design and characteristics of any given climb.
- Understanding both grading systems is essential for climbers who transition between bouldering and sport climbing, especially when traveling or climbing at new gyms.
- This simple conversion chart allows climbers to quickly and effortlessly compare grades from different systems and disciplines. This extremely useful tool helps make better decisions at the planning and routing stages.
- Climbers should focus on the physical and mental experience of each climb since factors like technique and body type can impact how a grade feels personally.
- Whether working to advance from 6c+ to a V grade or higher, you require focused training and achievable expectations. Engage the broader climbing community to develop grassroots support and cultivate expertise.
Quick Grade Comparison Chart
First, climbers often find it difficult to understand how their grade would compare to a different grading system. This problem is exacerbated when they travel across states or from sport climbing to bouldering.
Our quick grade comparison chart is here to set the record straight. A great visual demonstrates how a grade such as 6c+ compares to other grading systems. For instance, 6c+ on the French scale roughly lines up with V5 on the V scale used for bouldering in the US.
These charts use the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS), the most common scale for roped climbs in North America. They highlight the Font Scale, which is widely used in Europe for bouldering. This will serve as a great resource for local and visiting climbers alike.
Here is a simple chart to show how grades line up across styles and scales:
| French (Sport) | YDS (Sport) | V Scale (Boulder) | Font (Boulder) | Example Climb (USA/EU) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 6c+ | 5.11c/d | V5 | 6C | Midnight Lightning (Yosemite), Karma (Fontainebleau) |
| 7a | 5.11d/5.12a | V6 | 7A | The Wave (Hueco Tanks), La Marie Rose (Fontainebleau) |
| 7a+ | 5.12a/b | V7 | 7A+ | The Mandala (Bishop), Le Toit du Cul de Chien (Fontainebleau) |
Climbers rely on these charts for converting from one system to the other and for route planning. Some educators argue the V scale is not precise enough, as the differences between grades can seem like a wide leap.
What is the V Scale?
The V Scale is a grading system specifically created for bouldering. As a result, it allows climbers to better understand the difficulty level of a short, powerful ascent before they make an attempt. The scale was originally developed by John Sherman, who was given the moniker “Verm” for “Vermin”. That name stuck, and now the “V” prefix can be found on bouldering problems all across the United States.
The V Scale starts at VB, for “beginner,” and goes up to V17. The bigger the number, the more difficult the ascent. To use the gym analogy again, most new people would begin at VB or V0, the easiest level. At the other end, V17 is world-class, with very few climbers capable of sending those routes.
The gap between each of these grades is not as black and white as it seems. Anyone who’s ever tried two V4s that didn’t seem anything alike knows how confusing that can be to novice climbers.
Compared to other grading systems, like the French grading scale adopted by much of Europe, the V Scale is very different in its approach. It favors bouldering more than rope climbing and it favors short, powerful moves.
The Font Scale, widely used outside the U.S., grades bouldering as well, but employs a different numerical and alphabetical system. Conversions between V Scale and Font are not always exact. For example, V5 in the U.S. Will not equal 6C in Font grades.
The V Scale as we know it today is primarily used in American climbing gyms and outdoor bouldering areas. For the average boulderer, their sweet spot lies somewhere in the range of V4 to V7—the pros aim much higher.
To others, the V Scale is a community language and a metric to measure bouldering progression.
Converting 6c+ to V Scale Directly
For example, directly converting a 6c+ French sport grade to a V scale bouldering grade is difficult. It’s not as simple as choosing a number; there’s a host of other considerations. In practice, the two systems exist in separate worlds.
The 6c+ scale is in the sport climbing camp, focusing on longer, roped climbs, while the V scale is all about short, powerful boulder problems. Most experienced climbers based in the U.S. Or Europe would assume that 6c+ routes generally correspond to V7 or V8 boulders. This view isn’t set in stone.
For fast reference, several external charts and guides from the internet provide approximations of 6c+ being equal to V7/V8, but these are signposts, not promises. Some common 6c+ routes, like “Les Colonettes” in Fontainebleau or “La Marie Rose,” are often compared to V7 boulders, but conditions and styles matter a lot.
Whether you are making the transition between bouldering-only gyms or rope routes, knowing and understanding both grading systems is key. This information is especially essential if you climb internationally. While the French system values endurance on longer climbs, the V scale emphasizes brief, powerful movements.
A climber who is more naturally suited to power could have a much easier time on V7 boulders. By comparison, they can get totally shut down by a 6c+ sport climb.
Even within a single region, grades may vary due to rock quality, climbing style, or area culture. What is V7 for one climber could be V6 or V8 for another. The majority of climbers just google conversion charts or ask local climbers for a ballpark.
You really only know when you ride the climbs and make your own determination.
Beyond Numbers: Feel the Difference
Numerical grades such as 6c+ or V4’s give people a quick point of reference when describing a climb. Wheel gauges can miss the rock’s feel. Experienced climbers know that even within a grade, there are multiple types of moves, styles, and techniques. Even that number doesn’t do justice to the experience.
A V4 slab at Joshua Tree would involve tiny, delicate holds and deliberate, cautious motions. As that rock is eroded over time, it adjusts the texture and feel of the water. Holds can crush or polish, adding to the challenge of the issue. If you’re brawny, you may have an easier time sending a rugged V6 in the gym on your first try.
Get ready to spend more time resting between attempts. Even the start of a trip can feel more or less intimidating. This modification occurs either when the holds are changed or when more climbers try the route. A mellow 5.12a is going to feel like a walk in the park compared to a hard 5.9. This is how come not all grades line up, even on the same wall.
Technique, grip, body-shape make a huge difference. For some, the slap is the path of least resistance, others thrive on the difficulty of hard, steep, overhanging terrain. A 5.12d can seem more difficult than a hard 5.13 if it’s not well suited to your style.
Even indoors, a V0 can be pretty close to a 5.8 outside, but it’s only a general guideline. It’s different for every climber, and it’s that climber that determines that challenge on a personal level. Since the final grade is typically determined by one climber rather than an entire committee, peer review is essential.
Hearing stories and comparing notes with friends creates a richer and more helpful sense of where a problem is. Climbing is a subjective, individual pursuit, as much as one might like a slice of good bread. What may work for one climber will be the absolute wrong thing for another.
Why Grade Systems Evolved Differently
Grade systems in climbing always have a strong connection to the local culture, topography, and the era in which each style naturally developed. For instance, in Europe, individual areas developed their own methods to grade climbs. The British E-grade system was created to evaluate the level of risk on ethic-based, bold, traditional climbs.
In contrast, the French numerical system developed alongside the rising popularity of sport climbing. In the US, the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) was developed as a simple way to rate hikes and technical rock climbs. Eventually, it grew to include all types of climbing.
The demands of each climbing style advanced grading to expand. Bouldering, with its emphasis on short, powerful moves, received its own V scale. Because competition-focused sport climbing was based primarily on difficulty, it relied very heavily on the French system.
Ice and mixed climbing required another grade system to accommodate their unique hazards and gear. The Scottish winter grades, for example, consider the technical skill required and the risk posed by conditions or inadequate equipment.
Guidebooks and prominent climbers were instrumental in this evolution. Books contributed to establishing grades and transmitting them over long distances. Famous climbers tend to establish the most difficult new routes, and their interpretation of difficulty establishes the bar for others.
With each generation, these judgments determined the standard for what constituted “difficult” or “simple.” Geography, too, had more layers to it. Steep, loose rock in Alaska led to the Alaska Grade.
This grading system takes into account the weather, length and toughness of the climb, not just the hardness of the moves. Variations in rock, climate, and climbing culture around the globe allowed each area to create a system that worked best.
Moving from 6c+ to Higher V Grades
Climbers at the 6c+ level are definitely at least intermediate, if not advanced climbers. The move up to higher V grades, such as V7 or V8, is a major hurdle. The French 6c+ converts to roughly V5 or V6 on the V scale. When you jump to the V7 or V8 level, which is equivalent to French 7a+ or above, you face harder sequences and higher stakes.
Most climbers know on some level that they could do a better job of training. Instead, they concentrate on developing finger strength, core power and conditioning for the whole body. Hangboarding is a great way to improve finger grip strength, particularly for smaller holds. Adding in some pull-ups, planks, and other core exercises is important for your overall power.
Many competitive climbers incorporate campus board workouts to practice violent movement and fast footwork. Refining your technique is equally as important as building strength. Improving footwork, finding flow through the climbing, and figuring out how to relax on the wall all lead to tangible improvements.
When not on the wall, working with more experienced climbers or knowledgeable coaches can help identify little mistakes and correct them. Many find that joining local climbing groups or online forums brings in new ideas, beta for tough problems, and support during hard sessions. Measuring success, such as taking notes on sends and challenges, ensures that you establish concrete targets and maintain momentum.
It’s not just physical fitness — mental toughness is key. Higher grades usually lead to more difficult downhills and longer construction timelines. Creating confidence, overcoming fear, and maintaining concentration will help you blast through these plateaus.
Grade jumps are smaller on the V scale, so consistent, targeted work is immediately apparent. Time and savvy training will enable climbers to earn consistent improvements. A strong community is what gets them over the hump to take it to the next level.
Common Pitfalls in Grade Conversion
Converting climbing grades such as French 6c+ to the V scale can be a challenge. There’s no standard practice to guide how this comparison should be made. Since grades are a reflection of what people care about, a grade of 50 can indicate something different in one location versus another.
For example, a V5 at a gym in Los Angeles may feel a lot easier or harder than a V5 outside in Joshua Tree. The type of rock determines how easy or hard the climb will be. The size and shape of holds and route-setting are huge factors.
It is a common pitfall among many climbers to assume that these numbers are always in agreement, but this is seldom the case. Even at the same gym, a 6c+ can vary wildly from wall to wall.
Many new climbers focus purely on the grades and lose sight of considering what abilities each climb requires. Some riders excel on steep technical climbs, while others shine on long slabs. This leads to our next pitfall…
Pitfall #2 – Using grade conversion charts without additional context. We’ve all seen grade conversion charts. However, relying solely on these charts can be misleading. Otherwise, you might end up taking on a course that’s well outside your ability level.
Each climber brings their own artistic style, talents and strengths to create their own masterpiece. Consequently, their sense of what is hard or easy will probably not align with yours. Additionally, grades are subject to change over time as more individuals use the corridor and provide input on their experience.
It’s very beneficial to attempt a wide variety of climb grades to get an accurate impression of grade conversion. Don’t let these common pitfalls in grade conversions interfere with your precollege experience and the fun that can come with it.
Other Grade Systems Compared
Adventurers and travelers face a myriad of different grading systems, each developed by the customs and styles of the local culture. The V scale, widely used in North America, measures bouldering problems from V0-V16. It provides an obvious, easy line for people who are inexperienced with steep, brief climbs.
The French scale, used for rope climbing throughout Europe, employs a numeric/alpha system, such as 6c+ or 7a. This 100-point scale breaks the grade down into more granular pieces. It helps you determine a route that is a little more challenging or a little less challenging.
The UIAA system is the dominant scale in Germany and Central Europe. It uses Roman numerals, like VI+ or VIII-, and is primarily used for technical to mostly alpine climbs.
Here’s a quick look at how these compare:
| System | Use | Range | Features | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| V Scale | Bouldering | V0–V17+ | Simple numbers | Easy to read, direct | Less subtle at higher end |
| French | Sport/Rope | 1–9c+ | Letters, plus/minus | Fine grade steps | Can feel vague between gyms |
| UIAA | Trad/Alpine | III–XII+ | Roman numerals, plus | Good for trad climbs | Hard to match with bouldering |
Other systems such as the Font Scale, widely used in Fontainebleau, use grades such as 6B or 7A. The South African, Brazilian, Finnish and Swedish scales function well within their respective locales.
The Kyū scale, as observed in Japan, begins at 10-kyū for simple transitions. Other places, like Annot in France, have special exemptions. In our experience, a B6 size is about the same as a 6B font locally, but it isn’t true everywhere.
Grade conversions from one system to another are not exact. A V15 is not necessarily equivalent to 8C Font, for example. Understanding how these operate is key when you’re trip planning or perusing guidebooks, since grades change by location.
Climbing Grade Conversions
Frequently Asked Questions
What does 6c+ mean in bouldering grades?
What does 6c+ mean in bouldering grades. Outside of Europe it is very rarely used. In the U.S., climbers rate boulder problems on the V Scale.
What is the V Scale equivalent of 6c+?
6c+ on the French scale is approximately equivalent to V5 on the V Scale. This is only a rough estimate due to the variability in grading.
Why do some gyms use different grading systems?
Why do some gyms use different grading systems? Tradition and local climbing culture In the U.S., the V Scale is the norm, but gyms in Europe commonly use the French grading system.
Are 6c+ and V5 always the same difficulty?
No. It’s very much about the subjectivity of grades which are entirely up to the gym, setter, or locale. Go by your own experience—always attempt the problem yourself and make your own judgment.
How can I convert other French grades to the V Scale?
There are better conversion charts online. To clarify, 6a corresponds to V2, 6b corresponds to V3-V4, and 7a corresponds to V6-V7. Treat these as really ballpark estimates.
Why do grade conversions sometimes feel inaccurate?
Considerations such as hold style, wall angle, and individual strengths play a role in perceived difficulty. Conversions are not guaranteed, but rather guidelines.
Should I focus more on grades or how climbs feel?
Should I worry more about the grades, or how climbs feel? While grades are useful for monitoring progress, getting the most out of the experience and having fun are what counts.
