If you’re trying to understand how a 6c bouldering grade converts to the V Scale or sport climbing grades, here’s the quick answer:
6c roughly equals V5 in the Hueco (V) Scale and 5.12b in the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS).
Here, we’ll take a look at how the conversion works and why it’s important. I’ll give you some pointers on applying both scales IRL!
The 6c to V Scale Conversion Explained
We know that climbing grades can be intimidating. Variations in grading systems such as the V Scale (most commonly used in the U.S.) and the Fontainebleau Scale (sometimes referred to as the Font Scale) of France further complicate things.
To clear things up, here’s a simple conversion table:
| Font Scale | V Scale |
|---|---|
| 4 | V0 |
| 5 | V1 |
| 6A/6A+ | V3 |
| 6B/6B+ | V4 |
| 6C | V5 |
| 7A | V6 |
This chart illustrates how a 6C in the Font Scale corresponds to a V5 in the V Scale. Yet, we know that it’s not this simple all the time. The Font Scale has additional grade steps, whereas the V Scale has larger leaps between grades.
So the increase between 6B+ to 7A on the Font Scale is a big leap. In reality, it might even be covering two or up to three V grades. Climbers know the ups and downs of challenges all too well. Just as a Font 7a+ could be a 7b one day and a 7a the next depending on an individual’s strength, style, and what gym or crag they’re at.
Why does this matter? Knowing how to switch between these grades helps climbers moving between Europe and the U.S. Or from outdoor problems to indoor sets. Most importantly, it aids in establishing goals that are realistic and achievable regardless of style.
Many people believe the grades are precise equivalents, but they’re not. The conversion is complex and can change with area, lithology, or even individual strengths. For reference, a V3 would generally be equivalent to a 6A or 6A+ on the Font Scale. For other climbers, a difficult V3 may seem closer to a 6B.
Whether you’re a beginner or pro, these grades assist climbers like you to gauge what to expect. It’s not rare to hear about these large systems. The French Scale is the only one that uses a numeric and letter combination—imagine 6a, 6b, 6c. Each half-letter grade increase indicates a little more difficulty.
The V-Scale, or Vermin Scale, was coined by John Sherman, “The Verm.” It’s widely used in the U.S. For bouldering and goes V0-V16. The Font Scale is widely used in Europe and Asia and matches up nicely with the V-Scale. The UK system is more informative regarding risk and style. Though it’s a bit more confusing at times, it has great information and context.
Grades are not just numbers or letters. For non-climbers, they assist in selecting routes appropriate to their ability, or venturing outside their comfort zone. If a climber is new, they are going to seek out easier grades. More advanced climbers would seek out more difficult problems to solve.
Grades serve another important purpose—keeping everyone honest on progress. Climbing a harder grade than last month is a much more concrete, measurable way to demonstrate growth.
Grades aren’t so cut and dried. What is a 6c for one person might be a V2 for another – and that’s okay. Factors such as weather, reach, or just the way you like to move can all affect how difficult a route seems.
What Are Climbing Grades Anyway?
Climbing grades show how hard a climb is. Climbers use them to size up routes before they start. The person who climbs a route first, often called the first ascensionist, picks the grade based on how tough they think it is. Over time, other climbers might agree or tweak that grade after more climbs and feedback. That’s why you might see grades shift a bit, especially in popular spots.
Getting Familiar with 6c (Font Scale)
A 6c grade on the Font Scale represents a genuine change in what’s required of a climber. The Font Scale, or Fontainebleau Scale, originated in France but is now widely used in climbing gyms and outdoor spaces around the globe. These grades are easy to understand at first, but once you reach 6c, letters and plus signs appear as if to create subdivisions in level.
In order to climb 6c+, climbers need to build more than raw strength. They require quick footwork, excellent balance and the capacity to overcome complex moves that can be difficult to track initially. A 6c climb would be remarkable for its unique combination of moves.
These issues usually have hard crimps, overhangs, or slopers. Often the crux, or most difficult move, isn’t about pulling as hard as you can but rather connecting moves through proper body position. One classic 6c boulder in Fontainebleau, “Le Toit du Cul de Chien,” has a steep roof and small holds that force creative body shapes.
Indoors, a 6c route pushes climbers to make fast, powerful moves. You’ll have to stretch a long distance from a tiny foothold or pull moves that demand power and precision. Bouldering problems at 6c are common in many gyms and outdoor spots.
You might see a line that looks simple but hides a hard mantle or a heel-hook move. In Annot, a B6 problem is pretty close to a 6B in Font, but for 6c, the step up is clear—expect more technical holds and less room for error. As climbers travel or use different gyms, conversion tables help them match Font and V grades, but knowing the quirks of the Font Scale helps most.
Experience with 6c lets climbers better judge their skills and pick climbs that push them just enough.
Understanding the V Scale (Hueco)
The V Scale, or Hueco Scale, is the dominant system by which boulderers in the United States and around the world discuss the difficulty of their climbs. Speculative ecology John “Vermin” Sherman developed this unique climbing system in the 1980s at Hueco Tanks State Park in Texas. It starts at V0 for the easiest boulder problems and continues gradually in minor steps—V1, V2, and so on—now even to V16 as climbers keep testing their boundaries.
Unlike fixed scales, the V Scale is completely open-ended. With all the new, tougher problems to crush, we’ve got new numbers stacked on top.
The V Scale is different from other climbing grades like the French or Font system used frequently in Europe. It indeed highlights short, powerful, and technical moves that are characteristic in bouldering as opposed to long endurance climbs.
Like with the French grading system, a 6c+ or 7a will at times correspond to a V4 or V6 on the V Scale. The catch is that these grades don’t map directly on to each other. Each system has their oddities.
In the world of sport climbing, a 5.12a can sometimes feel significantly easier than a 5.12d. So grades of V4 might not be equal at all.
Boulder problems rated on the V Scale are often characterized by a combination of physical strength, technical finesse, and creative problem solving. These climbs remain low to the dirt and are often brief but powerful.
They may need to be jumpy moves or advance even more accurate bodily placements. This makes grades more subjective, depending on the region and rock type. Routes of the same grade can be harder or easier depending on the weather, reach, or your personal climbing style.
Climbers have long used the V Scale to communicate about their personal achievements and compare experiences with friends. It empowers them to select challenges commensurate with their abilities.
It’s a kind of safety tool—understanding your level reduces the chance of getting hurt. That language has now gone worldwide, defining public and private climbing spaces—indoor gyms and outdoor crags—long past the borders of Texas.
A Quick Look Back: Grade History
Climbing grade systems have changed a great deal since those early days. Climbers started with crude designations such as “easy” and “hard.” Over the years, people asked for greater specificity. The concept was simple enough—let’s come up with a way to communicate how difficult a climb is. This caused a variety of systems to proliferate across the globe. Each system attempted to convey not only the sheer strength required, but the danger or equipment selection.
The 6c grade and the V scale together represent pivotal moments in this story. The 6c, which originated from the French sport climbing structure, soon established itself as an important benchmark for difficult mid- to hard sport routes. The V scale was created in the U.S. Entirely for the discipline of bouldering. In particular, it increased accessibility for climbers to report on bite-sized, difficult problems.
These grades thus established a standard for what constituted a “hard” ascent in each discipline. It was Yosemite climbers who first popularized the “new wave” aid grades back in the 1990s. They expanded the limits of the previous aid system and invented new categories like A6, as well as a “+” step in between. This opened up space among climbers to discuss risk and skill in different ways.
Other systems were happy to take it and put their own spin on it. The British E-grade, for instance, employs two open grades to indicate risk and skill. Scottish winter climbing grades combine Roman and Arabic numerals to divide general and technical difficulty. The Canadian Ice grades only apply to ice climbs.
The Ewbank system, originally developed in Australia, employs a single open scale, now adopted as central to the judging in New Zealand and South Africa. Of course grades can be in flux as new gear comes out and people redpoint climbs. No system is perfect and none is predetermined.
Grading stays subjective, shaped by the climber’s view, but these systems help climbers share stories, push limits, and build a tight-knit community.
Climbing Strong at the 6c/V5 Level
This is a significant transition from novice to intermediate or advanced climber. At this level climbers contend with tenuous holds and greater difficulty in terms of move complexity requiring more advanced level strength and finesse. So many of you at this level have spent years and decades pouring your heart and soul into the gym or crag.
They’ve learned good footwork, efficient hand placement, and body control. It’s not all about how hard you can pull—success is often determined by how effectively you can use your entire body.
In order to climb 6c/V5 well, most climbers will need to work on drills that develop their precision. Campus board workouts are a great way to develop finger strength, and footwork drills on slab walls can improve body awareness and balance. Working on other grip types, such as crimps or pinches, can change things up.
Movement on vertical and overhung walls, in addition to repping difficult boulder problems, reinforces the specific muscle memory required for such dynamic movement. Most climbers supplement their training with hangboard protocols to prepare their fingers for tiny edges.
Gear becomes extremely important at this level. Essentials for 6c/V5 climbing include well-fitted climbing shoes for better grip and edging, chalk bag for dry hands, and a brush for cleaning holds.
Additionally, tape for finger protection, a comfortable harness (for sport routes), a crash pad (for outdoor bouldering), and a water bottle and snacks for longer sessions are crucial.
Mental prep is so important. Mental imagery ahead of a climb allows you to deconstruct sequences and identify difficult movements. Keeping your heart rate low and your focus sharp promotes better problem solving on the wall.
Even among the most experienced climbers, having a mental rehearsal plan where they set little goals or mentally walk through the moves helps instill that confidence.
Font vs. V: Key Differences
The Font and V grading systems are the two most popular methods of rating bouldering problems. Both serve the same purpose of helping climbers choose routes appropriate for their skill level, but each has a distinct history, aesthetic and idiosyncrasies.
The Font Scale was developed in Fontainebleau, France. In the linked example, it includes clear instructions that use a combination of steps with numbers, letters, and plus signs. The V Scale, originated in the United States by John Sherman, employs plain numbers and is thus frequently referred to as more straight-to-the-point.
| Feature | Font Scale | V Scale |
|---|---|---|
| Origin | France (Fontainebleau) | USA (John Sherman) |
| Format | 4, 5, 6A, 6A+, … | V0, V1, V2, … |
| Range | 4 to 9a (22+ steps) | V0 to V17+ |
| Increment Fineness | Small, nuanced steps | Larger steps |
| Symbols | Letters, “+” | Numbers only |
| Perceived Subjectivity | Lower | Higher |
| Regional Preference | Europe, Asia | North America, Oceania |
| Grade Consistency | More consistent | Varies by area |
The Font Scale’s smaller increments, such as 6A and 6A+, provide additional granularity between grades. This is particularly helpful when a climb falls in between grades. Climbers who wish to have a precise understanding of the difficulty of a climb tend to prefer this system, particularly at easier ends of the scale.
In the US, the V Scale reigns supreme. It eliminates fine-tuning for rapid, high-level grading. Proponents of this approach claim it makes things easier to use. However, grades are often inconsistent from gym to gym and state to state. A V4 in Texas would be equivalent to a V6 in Colorado.
Geographic practices determine what scale climbers adopt. While French and many European climbing gyms use Font grades, US gyms have largely remained committed to V grades. Unfortunately, this combination can confuse visitors or those perusing guidebooks from other states.
In the end, some climbers prefer the Font system because it’s better, and others choose V grades for their swiftness and simplicity.
Climbing Grade Conversions
Frequently Asked Questions
What does “6c” mean in climbing grades?
What does “6c” mean in climbing grades 6c is a grade on the Fontainebleau (or Font) scale, primarily used in Europe, for boulder problems. It gives the impression of a moderate-advanced caliber.
How does the V scale compare to the Font scale?
The V scale, sometimes referred to as the Hueco scale, is primarily used in the United States. It employs the letter “V” followed by a number (e.g., V5) to indicate a level of difficulty in bouldering.
What is the direct conversion from 6c to the V scale?
In this case, a 6c on the Font scale would be approximately a V5 on the V scale. Both imply a very hard boulder problem for the average climber.
Why are there different climbing grade scales?
Areas not directly influenced by the American climbing community quickly established their own grading systems. The Font scale originated in France, whereas the V scale was developed in the U.S. For bouldering.
Is a 6c/V5 climb considered advanced?
So yes, 6c/V5 is considered advanced. Climbers must have excellent technique and power to advance to this grade.
What are the main differences between the Font and V scales?
The Font scale uses a mix of numbers and letters, like 6c. In comparison, the V scale has a “V” and a number, such as V5. Both scales measure the same thing—bouldering difficulty—but are simply used in different parts of the world.
Can beginners try 6c or V5 problems?
6c/V5 will be super challenging for the majority of beginners. So it’s important to gain experience on less difficult climbs before jumping into more challenging problems.