Key Takeaways
- The Font scale is only used in France. At the same time, the V scale is the de facto standard for bouldering grades in the United States, making it necessary to know both systems if you’re climbing internationally.
- An 8b Font boulder problem usually translates to something around a V13 on the V scale. Differences may exist depending on route, local grading practices, and other factors.
- Climbing grades are not absolute values. They change with the season, the weather, the rock type and each individual climber’s strengths and weaknesses.
- Understanding the differences and how to convert between different grading systems ensures that climbers of all abilities can safely and confidently travel abroad and try new climbing areas.
- To make the leap beyond 8b or V13, you must meld elite training with excellent form. Plus, developing mental resilience will prepare you for the challenge of those advanced grades.
- Familiarity with multiple grading systems enables climbers to adapt their skills and expectations when facing new challenges around the world.
8B to V scale means changing a pencil hardness grade from the traditional 8B scale to its matching value on the V scale used for pencils. Our 8B to V scale conversion gives artists the tools they need to select the best pencil for the project at hand.
Both scales indicate the softness or darkness of graphite, however their markings differ. Most American art supply brands utilize the B (blackness) or H (hardness) system for pencil hardness listing. Some brands even include the V scale in their product listings.
Understanding how 8B corresponds to its V scale equivalent makes it easier to locate the same color or hue. This is true no matter what brand or country of origin for the colored pencils. Our detailed conversions for these below provide the nuts and bolts on how we arrived at these conversions.
What Are Font and V Scales?
Other climbers use Font and V scales to describe the grade of bouldering problems. Despite the fact that both scales may reflect similar concepts, each scale comes from a different pedigree and has their own distinct personality.
The Font Scale, short for Fontainebleau Scale, was developed in Fontainebleau, France. Outside of the United States, it is primarily used for bouldering. The system uses both numbers and letters, as in 6a or 7c+. The number is meant to convey the net severity as a whole, and the letter and + sign denote lesser, step-wise hurdles.
So for instance, 6a is considered difficult, 6a+ slightly more difficult. Routes 6a, 6b, and 6c present an obvious step up in difficulty. Each letter represents a higher level of achievement.
The other popular grade scale in the US is the V Scale, or Vermin Scale. It begins at V0, the entry level. The more experience you get, the higher it goes with more difficult climbs such as V1, V2, and so on.
As of now, the most difficult boulders in the world have a V scale grade of V17. The V Scale was originally developed by climbers in Hueco Tanks, Texas, and is named after one of those climbers, John “Verm” Sherman.
Although both scales are meant to express the relative difficulty of a climb, Font and V are not directly comparable. The Font Scale is more about technical skill and the V Scale is more about raw power and physical exertion.
A Font 7a+ translates roughly to a V10. An unforgiving Font 7a concerned with balance might not be experienced as such, compared to a strength-dependent V7.
Having a common scale to refer to allows climbers to more easily communicate their progress and compare the challenges they’re taking on. In the US, the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) is only used for roped routes.
Converting 8b Boulder to V Scale
For climbers who jump back and forth between the Font Scale and the V Scale, it’s always useful to understand how those grades correspond. The 8b grade on the Font Scale is no joke. The consensus seems to be somewhere between V14-V15 on the V Scale. Others will say maybe V13 is more appropriate if the problem seems easier.
This isn’t cut and dry. The Font Scale, which originated in France, and V Scale, which originated in the United States, follow different conventions. The Font Scale helps us appreciate the aesthetic nuances in how we move that define a climb. Conversely, V Scale gets at the grit of what a climbing experience is actually like.
Here’s a quick table to show how 8b matches up with the V Scale:
| Font Scale | V Scale | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 8b | V14 | Most common match, very hard |
| 8b | V15 | For more demanding lines |
| 8b | V13 | Sometimes used for softer 8b climbs |
Few boulders demonstrate these transformations better. In Hueco Tanks, “Esperanza” (V14) is consistently cited alongside the hardest 8b problems in Fontainebleau, France. Just ask climbers who occasionally find that “The Mandala” in Bishop, rated V12/V13, climbs like an easy 8b.
This just goes to show how much grades can change depending on the type of spot or hold. Understanding these connections is important. Climbers making the switch from Europe to the U.S., or vice versa, will benefit tremendously.
They’ll learn what to expect and how difficult a challenge problem really is. Grades change by area, home stone, and discipline. That’s why a guidebook’s chart is just an introduction, not a playbook.
Why Grades Are Not Exact Science
Without climbing grades, it would be almost impossible to communicate to others how hard or difficult a route is. They weren’t carved in granite. Every climber comes from a different discipline and approach. What is difficult for one individual might come easy for another.
For example, a boulderer used to steep gym walls may find a slabby outdoor V4 trickier than a powerful V5 roof problem. Bouldering brings this point home in a particularly illustrative way. Climbers often have a contentious relationship with their grades, but most accept the status quo rather than push back on what doesn’t sit right.
Grading varies across the country and by rock type. What a 5.12 in California’s Joshua Tree might climb like compared to a 5.12 in the Red River Gorge. The rock’s morphology, the type of rock, the weather, and even the shape of the glacier itself take their toll.
The various climbing styles and systems increase the confusion treadmill. The WI-grade scales the severity of ice climbs, while the M-grade scales that of mixed routes. The French numerical system grades free climbs—their equivalents of the French grading system—but no grading system is an exact science.
Even these systems, particularly the YDS and French systems, differ in ways that become apparent at the higher levels. Grades are not determined by a single individual. Users in the climbing community are very vocal about giving feedback.
They usually take these measures after new routes get established or when newer equipment makes older ascents much safer. Many times a once-dreaded A5 aid route turns into a cruisy affair as the constant up and down tends to shed gear and wear in placements.
Even the level of protection can move a grade. Less gear and a climb suddenly seems harder to the majority.
Beyond the 8b/V13 Benchmark
Climbing grades become less common than a Sasquatch sighting. Very few climbers would consider anything below that grade as elite, or even close to elite. Gym grades feel soft compared to real rock climbing up to about V10. From there, the adjustment from climbing indoors to outdoors gets easier, and the grades begin to match up better.
Routes such as Burden of Dreams in Finland have raised the standard to V17. This degree of difficulty is well beyond the reach of most climbers. Only a handful have reached V18, which at this point is the new ceiling of what’s possible. For elite climbers who regularly send V14 or Font 8c, the next major milestone is V15 and higher. One-to-one strength isn’t enough. Each grade up requires more than just pure power.
The increase in difficulty is not just an increase in difficulty by a level; the jump becomes exponentially harder. Training beyond V13 requires a combination of power and strategic action. Finger strength, body tension, and core work are big parts of a climber’s practice. Campus board sessions, weighted hangs, and brutal circuit laps are the norm.
Targeted footwork and balance drills, repetition of hard crux moves to develop muscle memory and problem-solving skills, all of these require a serious focus on fundamentals. At these grades, the mental component is as important as the physical one. For the elite climbers, staying cool under pressure, demonstrating mental toughness, and recovering from serious falls is par for the course.
They disaggregate complex issues into manageable pieces and combat overwhelm or uncertainty with consistent habits.
Tips for moving past 8b/V13:
- Build finger strength with regular hangboard sets
- Mix in core and antagonist muscle work
- Break problems into sections and solve each part
- Rest well and keep training sessions short but focused
- Stay mindful and control nerves before big sends
Other Climbing Grade Systems Overview
Climbing grade systems originate from all over the world and include a variety of climbing disciplines. Each system aims to put a number on the challenge of a climb. Climbing is an intensely individual pursuit, and grades can change dramatically for each climber.
With every grade system developed since, the logic and intention have been to create more unequivocal guidance to students of what they should expect. Even then, they can’t be all things to all people. Yet, they serve as useful signals to inform climbers’ decisions on appropriate routes to climb in accordance with their abilities and the nature of the rock.
Below is a table that shows some of the most used climbing grade systems and what makes each one stand out:
| System Name | Area Used | Climbing Style | Range/Scale | Notable Features |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Yosemite Decimal (YDS) | North America | Sport/Trad | 5.0–5.15 | Adds decimal for finer grades, common in the U.S. |
| French (IFAS) | Europe, worldwide | Sport/Alpine | 1–9c+ | Covers technical and seriousness of route |
| V-scale (Hueco) | North America | Bouldering | VB–V17 | Simple to pro level, common at U.S. gyms/crags |
| Fontainebleau | France, Europe | Bouldering | 1–9A | Focuses on technical moves in bouldering |
| WI/AI | North America, EU | Ice/Alpine | WI1–WI7/AI1–AI6 | WI for seasonal, AI for all-year alpine ice |
| NCCS | North America | Big Wall/Alpine | Grade I–VI | Measures length/exposure, not just difficulty |
Understanding these systems is extremely important for the traveling climber. Here in California, a V5 boulder would generally adhere to the Hueco scale. A boulder problem in France would adopt the Fontainebleau numbering system.
Routes in Colorado and the American West typically utilize the YDS, while large alpine ascents in Europe tend to rely heavily on French grades. Knowing how to read and convert between these allows climbers to choose appropriate and enjoyable routes from all over the globe.
Flexibility breeds success. Grading is only half the story. The real test begins when you’re on the rock or ice.
Climbing Grade Conversions
Frequently Asked Questions
What does 8b mean in bouldering grades?
8b is a bouldering grade on the Fontainebleau (Font) scale, commonly used in Europe, to describe the difficulty of a boulder problem. In the U.S., that’s roughly equivalent to V13 on the V scale.
How do you convert 8b on the Font scale to the V scale?
How do you convert 8b on the Font scale to the V scale? Both ratings denote very difficult, elite-level bouldering problems.
Why do we use different bouldering grade systems?
Over the years, different areas began creating their own grading systems. While the Font scale was developed in France, the V scale is more widely used in the United States.
Are bouldering grades like 8b or V13 always accurate?
Are bouldering grades like 8b or V13 always accurate? These factors can include the preferred size and style of climbers as well as local consensus. Then, hens teeth caveat #2, they’re best used as general guidelines.
What other climbing grade systems exist besides Font and V scale?
Other languages have similar systems, like the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) for roped climbs and British/Japanese bouldering grades. These can be found all over the world, and in numerous climbing styles.
Is V13 considered a professional or elite bouldering grade?
Is V13 (8b) an elite professional bouldering grade? Only elite and professional climbers usually send boulder problems of this difficulty.
Can I use the V scale in Los Angeles climbing gyms?
The answer is yes, since most Los Angeles climbing gyms will likely use the V scale for bouldering problems. It’s what’s most common in the U.S., so easy to compare grades among climbers you see around town.