If you’re trying to figure out how 8B+ compares to the V scale or Yosemite Decimal System (YDS), here’s the quick answer:
8B+ is equal to V14 or 5.14d.
This guide breaks down how these climbing grades convert across different systems. You’ll also learn why these grades matter and how to use them when planning your next project.
Key Takeaways
- Climbing grade systems, including the V scale and French grading scale, help categorize the difficulty of bouldering and sport climbing routes nationwide.
- Changing 8b+ Font grades to the V scale—for instance, translating 8b+ to V14—serves United States climbers. This change will help them better compare and understand the unique challenges of various routes.
- Being able to quickly convert between the two systems is absolutely necessary to monitoring your progress, training effectively, and talking to other climbers.
- Grading is impacted by subjectivity. Factors such as your own personal experiences, climbing style, and local conditions can play a huge role in how hard a climb truly is.
- The more you learn to understand different grading systems, the more versatile and confident you’ll be when climbing in new areas or disciplines.
- Build your power, form, and stamina by riding all types of climbs. This targeted approach will rocket you up to 8b+ or v14.
The Big Question: 8b+ Font to V Scale
The Font scale is used to rate the difficulty of bouldering problems that originated in Fontainebleau, France. At the same time, the V-scale is applied to problems first established in the United States. The Font scale originated in France and is used widely throughout Europe and much of the world.
In the US, nearly all gyms and guides still use the V-scale. For climbers who travel or train with folks from other countries, knowing how to switch between these scales makes a real difference.
Converting 8b+ from Font into the V-scale isn’t quite so simple. While most climbers would accept that 8b+ is equivalent to V14, the reality might be closer to V13+ or V15. This gap is due to how grades are determined. Each route setter has their own style and feel for difficulty.
Similarly, every gym or crag has its own unique vibe. Grades become hard to pin down. This is where your mastery of individual moves comes into play. Powerful dynos, mini crimpers, and tricky slab moves all have their own set of difficulties.
Here’s a quick table for clarity:
| Font Scale | V Scale |
|---|---|
| 8b+ | V14 |
Other references place 8b+ at V14-V15. What you’ll see more frequently in guidebooks and from highly skilled climbers is V14. Having a grasp on this conversion aids in making smarter training decisions, choosing appropriate, realistic goals, and understanding what you can expect at unfamiliar locations.
If you’re aiming to push your limits, getting the grade right means you can track progress and focus on the skills you really need.
What Are Climbing Grade Systems?
Climbing grade systems provide a standardized method to gauge the difficulty of a climb. Ultimately, these systems guide climbers in goal setting, selecting appropriate climbs, and discussing abilities. Free climbing, aid climbing, ice, and mixed climbing all have their own grading systems.
For free climbing, the American Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) and French numerical scale are by far the most popular. They incorporate both numeric and alphabetic characters. You may notice the use of a ‘+’ or ‘-‘ sign that show grades that are between the primary levels. In sport climbing, the French system uses numerical grades with plus/minus designations such as ‘6a’ or ‘8b+’.
The YDS ranks routes as ‘5.12a’ or ‘5.14c.’ These systems correspond fairly well to one another, although their lowest grades are sometimes inaccurate.
In the US, bouldering routes are graded using the V-scale. They begin at V0 for lower grade climbs and stretch all the way to V17 for the most difficult ascents. In Europe, the “Font” system (short for Fontainebleau) predominates, employing grades such as “Font 6C” or “Font 8A.
For the sake of simplicity, the Font system prefixes each grade with an “F.” That way, nobody mistakes it for French sport climbing grades. Each bouldering system has graduated increments up a grade with a “+” to indicate a route that falls slightly above the dedicated base grade.
Aid climbing is graded separately, using the “A” system. This system evolved in the 1990s to more accurately depict difficult or strenuous moves, incorporating “+” for more specificity. Ice climbing employs the WI-scale, mixed climbing employs the M-grade, both calibrated to those specific hurdles.
Culturally, regions tend to adopt one alternative system or the other. In the US, nearly every gym and outdoor location utilizes YDS and V-scale. In Europe, French and Font scales are typically used.
These grades are not set in stone, as equipment improves and climbs receive multiple ascents, some routes become easier over time.
Why Grade Conversion Matters to You
Grade conversion is an important part of climbing. From climbing indoors in Los Angeles to bouldering in Fontainebleau or Hueco Tanks, you’ll want to know grades. It determines how you approach training and goal setting. Most climbers are interested in measuring their improvements, and watching themselves grow is an invaluable experience.
Equivalently rated 8B+ in Europe can be up to V14 U.S. If you don’t know how these grades compare, you might find yourself setting objectives that are out of your depth. Don’t let that be you—set realistic targets that are achievable! Some people pick a V6 in California and look for the same in Spain, but the numbers can mean something else. That gives an idea of why understanding how to convert between grades is important.
Grade conversion becomes important again when you’re evaluating a potential new route. If you’re new to the area, local grades can seem out of place. Bishop uses the V scale for bouldering and the French scale for climbing. If you were introduced to climbing in France, chances are you’re a fan of Font grades.
For example, a 6B in Font might correspond to a V4 or V5, but these conversions are not always a perfect fit. While the grades themselves are far from ideal, and there has been considerable discussion within the community, understanding the approximate conversion allows you to select climbs appropriate to your level of expertise. It allows you to avoid those that are over-ambitious or under-ambitious.
It’s an issue of safety and enjoying a recreational experience on the rock. Discussions of grades are a daily occurrence in climbing gyms and on crags. Climbers share their stories, compare climbs, and give each other tips on technique. Grade conversion allows you to participate in these conversations, regardless of where you first learned to climb.
It goes a long way to helping us keep the community open and sharing beta even smoother. For novice climbers or those traveling frequently, having a better understanding of more than one system provides you with a greater range of choices. You’ll be as comfortable as possible and get the most benefit from each trip.
The Subjectivity Factor in Grading
Bouldering is, of course, subjective, particularly when it comes to the 8b+ and V scales, which are very much open to interpretation. Climbers’ own backgrounds, strengths, and climbing histories will affect how they perceive a problem’s grade. Just like a climber who excels on steep, powerful routes might have a hard time sending a technical slab.
Though both climbs may technically be the same grade, their subjective experience can vary drastically. What seems like a huge accomplishment to one may be a preliminary exercise for another.
When a new boulder problem is established, the first ascensionist assigns the grade. This initial take can establish the vibe but is usually a true-to-form representation of that climber’s particular proclivities and talents. Cumulatively, thousands of people attempt the problem.
We are probably all better or worse at it based on our own talents and physiques. The climber community would then place a route as a “soft” V7 and another one as a “hard” V7. This illustrates how grading is often a subjective endeavor.
The role of environmental factors is equally important. Conditions such as the weather, humidity, and quality of the rock can change the perceived difficulty of a problem. A V8 under the hot California sun can sound much different than a V8 in a wet, cool, dark forest.
These changes increase the complexity of grading and create challenges to develop a comprehensive system that works for everyone. Grades may increase or decrease as more climbers chime in, a process that can remove resolution of disputes but not all of the subjectivity.
From explosive arguments over controversial ascents—V16 or a hard V15—evidence of how heated the subject of personal climbing grades can become is abundant.
Feeling the Difference: 8b+ vs. V14
These are the grades climbers famously throw around, living in 8b+ and V14. In actual fact, these two degrees of difficulty are the same. 8b+ in the French system equals V14 on the American V-Scale. Yet these grades raise an entirely different body and mind exam. Each demand elite conditioning, precise technique, and relentless determination.
Many climbers that have climbed at this level claim that 8b+ routes require a high level of endurance. These lines demand, for instance, that they muscle through multiple strenuous moves without any forward progression. V14, on the other hand, requires you to exert short, quick, explosive movements of power and strength. In France, an 8b+ on limestone may have an endurance crux that pumps your forearms with each move.
On the other hand, a V14 boulder problem in Bishop might be less than 10 moves long, but every single move requires an absolute maximum effort. Skill level is the paramount issue at this grade. Rock climbers must negotiate difficult sequences of moves, rely on precision foot placements, and maintain stability even when each square inch of contact is critical. Even small mistakes might be enough to bring a try to a crashing halt.
At this stage, it really pays off to be familiar with your aesthetic. Endurance climbers will be right at home on 8b+. On the other hand, climbers with a hard, flicky, dynamic style usually prefer V14. The rock itself is a complete paradigm shift as well. Steep gym walls, overhung limestone, or sharp granite all determine the experience of these routes.
It’s an interesting contrast, and every climber will likely find their strengths and weaknesses exposed by both grades. Getting on both 8b+ and V14 allows you to feel what is hard about each route. Through dedication and practice, you too can achieve what’s achievable.
Beyond 8b+: Other Key Conversions
As bouldering advances beyond 8b+, the ratings tread into thin atmosphere. These climbs, ranging between 8b+ to 9a and above, correspond with V14 through V17 on the V-scale. At the very top, 9A is the most difficult grade at the top, which matches up with V17.
These routes test the mettle of the most seasoned climbers. Even then, only the most experienced pros even attempt them after years of serious training in the park and backcountry. A climb rated 8c on the Font Scale corresponds to V15. That’s demanding in the extreme, both in terms of muscle and mojo.
Almost every guidebook I’ve seen has these two scales, Font Scale and V-scale, side by side. Once you start converting grades above 8b+, it gets complicated. The use of plus or minus signs, like 8b+ or V14+, helps fine-tune just how tough a route really is.
Even professionals will tell you that at this elite level, grades often seem arbitrary. What might seem like a V15 ascent for one climber might feel closer to a V14+ for their compatriot. This variation is largely based on body size, climbing style, and the climate of the day.
Other systems, like the British technical grades, come from a different place entirely. It’s because they focus on singular moves rather than holistic issues. These kinds of climbs are far less unusual in the UK.
They largely focus on boldness and route risk rather than just strength. In mixed climbing, the grades combine ice, rock, and tools, complicating, if not completely obfuscating, their readable layers of difficulty. Each style—bouldering, sport, trad, or mixed—brings its own way to rate and talk about climbs, so knowing how they stack up makes it easier to compare routes and set goals.
Improving Your Climbing Towards Higher Grades
Moving up the grades, either on the V Scale or Font Scale, is about much more than just adding up numbers. Making the leap from a V6 to a V8 involves a combination of nuanced abilities and clever prep. In much the same way, climbing 8A requires the proper equipment and commitment.
Making progress on a personal level is what it’s all about in this sport. What is a personal triumph for one climber can be just a little appetizer for the next. So this makes it even more important to focus on your personal progression.
If you want to improve and climb more challenging grades, climbers typically segment their training into strength, technique, and endurance. Strength training helps you perform on difficult, reachy moves like 8b or V14 cruxes. These types of moves involve extreme body tension and explosive dynamic power.
To illustrate, power and finger strength is key in overhangs, whereas slabs challenge your faith in friction and your ability to balance. Practicing precision, such as getting the right body position on difficult V6 moves, creates the muscle coordination required to solve hard puzzles. Doing so on slopers will help you a lot with becoming a better climber.
Learning how to use minuscule holds when the sun or wind changes the rock is another huge factor. Endurance training becomes the most important compound when you are working on longer routes or when boulder problems demand a longer fight.
Most climbers create variety by incorporating multiple styles of climbing into their workouts—bouldering, sport routes, or even gym circuits. This method cultivates a more diverse skill set and prevents training from becoming monotonous.
Aligning your gear bundles with your desired grade will realize your biggest performance gains. For instance, select footwear with superlative rubber for smearing and heat-retaining chalk to help you push past limits such as 8A.
Final Thoughts on Grade Translation
Climbing grade conversion can be confusing and usually raises more questions than it answers. The V Scale is so crucial for rating bouldering problems; the Font Scale is equally vital. There are idiosyncrasies to watch out for on each scale. Translating between the two systems is no easy task.
The variations are based on the area, climbing gym, or in some cases the individual who created the route. For reference, a V0 on the V Scale translates to about a 5.8 in the gym or a 5.10d on the Yosemite Decimal System. Outside, that same V0 could be more difficult or easier depending on things like the sun, rock quality, or how the problem is graded.
A Color font conversion chart shows that V0 maps to Font 4, V1 maps to Font 5, and V2 maps to Font 5+. The intervals don’t always line up nicely. There is much in the way of gray area, and that’s to be expected.
Remember that the grade you see is more of a suggestion, not a directive. The truth is, a majority of boulderers never send V7 (7A+) or harder in the gym and V5 (6C/+) or above outside. For this reason, it is common for climbers to label entry-level climbs as VB or beginner.
In many gyms, this ends up being Font 3 to Font 5+. Setting and grading are not nearly as democratic as you think. In the outdoors, a small handful of climbers frequently sets the tone for the rest. Which is why it’s worth it to understand how grades translate, but not to get caught up on the nitty-gritty of the numbers.
Celebrating the difference of grade systems can help make climbing deeper and broader. Every scale provides a different perspective and sharpens the blade. Experiment, take unexpected approaches, use a range of grades, and allow the difference to challenge you to improve.
Climbing Grade Conversions
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the 8b+ grade in the Font scale?
What is the 8b+ grade in the Font scale? 8b+ is a bouldering grade on the Fontainebleau (Font) scale mostly used in Europe. It is the v scale’s equivalent of one of the most difficult bouldering grades.
What is the equivalent of 8b+ Font in the V scale?
8b+ in the Font scale is approximately equivalent to V14 in the American V scale. This represents a pretty high, elite level of bouldering.
Why do climbing grades need conversion between scales?
Grade conversion provides the ability for climbers to compare problems. It helps them track their progress even while climbing in different countries or with different guidebooks.
Is the conversion from 8b+ to V14 exact?
Is the conversion from 8b+ to V14 accurate? Climbing grading is highly subjective and difficulty can be relative to the experience of each climber and route location.
How can I tell if I’m ready to climb 8b+ or V14?
You need some bouldering experience under your belt, solid climbing technique and advanced grip strength. The majority of climbers take decades to reach this level.
Are there other common grade conversions I should know?
Yes. The new pattern For example, 7A Font is centered on V6, and 8A is focused on V11. Understanding these allows you to measure progress and stack climbs against each other.
Does climbing location affect the grade difficulty?
Pretty awesome, right? Factors like rock type, weather and setting style can all contribute to a V14 in California feeling different than a V14 in the midwest. Of course, always think about local context.