If you’re trying to convert a 7b+ boulder problem from the Fontainebleau scale to the V scale or Yosemite Decimal System (YDS), here’s the quick answer:
7b+ roughly equals V8/V9 on the V scale and 5.13b on the YDS.
But grades aren’t always straightforward. In this article, you’ll learn how 7b+ compares across different systems, why the conversion isn’t exact, and what factors can affect the difficulty.
Key Takeaways
- Like IQ scores, climbing grades help climbers gauge the challenge of a route. They assist in creating personal objectives and monitoring achievements, proving themselves as integral instruments in indoor gymnasiums and outdoor climbing areas in all 50 states.
- The Font 7b+ grade usually corresponds with a V8 on the V scale. It is crucial that climbers understand both systems, particularly if they travel or climb in different areas.
- Each grading system values a mix of strength and technique. The Font and V scales have unique characteristics and cultural significance, especially in Europe and North America.
- When it comes to grade conversions, use only reputable conversion charts and online grade conversion calculators. Just don’t forget to consider your own strengths and the specific route conditions as well.
- Avoid the misguided notion that you should ignore your own unique capabilities or the effects of your surroundings. Always be aware of the subjective nature of a climb’s difficulty.
- Understanding how to work within both grading systems will give you much more confidence, and inspire you to take more adventurous, self-propelled and higher-quality climbing trips, and help it be more inclusive and more representative and make it more easy to connect with the broader climbing community.
Comparing Font 7b+ and V Grades
Font 7b+ and its approximate V-scale equivalent, V8, both represent a difficult barrier in bouldering. People tend to refer to conversion charts, but these things rarely match up. The Font scale, however, has a full 22 gradations from 4 to 9a. This enables it to make some more nuanced distinctions in the grades than the V-scale is able to do.
This implies that a 7b+ climb can be just as difficult as a stiff V8. Sometimes it should even be considered a gentle V9, notably due to the borderline overlaps at the margins. The table below shows the specifics:
| Grade System | Grade | Usual Equivalent | Notable Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Font | 7b+ | V8/V9 | Fine-tuned, lots of steps, nuanced |
| V-Scale | V8 | 7b/7b+ (Font) | Wider steps, less detail |
| Font | 7a+ | V7 | Can feel like 7a or 7b for some |
Getting up a 7b+ or V8 involves some difficult moves. To climb these routes you require precise crimp strength, foot placement, and actual body tension. Both are tests of pure strength and of how well you can read the wall.
Many non-climbing people would argue that V grades are pretty stable. This creates a situation where they may find it hard to perceive the leap in difficulty. On Font, the finer steps allow for more subtle alterations in how difficult the ascent is perceived.
Both grades garner respect in the gym and out, although what qualifies as “hard” is often subjective and varies from location to location. The Font system, which originates from Europe, is the subject of much coveted review for its intricacy.
While the V-scale is widely used in the US, when American climbers approach a testpiece, they might still argue over the grade of a problem. All climbers are aware that grades remain imperfect indicators. One climber’s straightforward 7b+ could very well be another climber’s most difficult redpoint, influenced by their own style and power.
What Are Climbing Grades Anyway?
Understanding climbing grades is a central aspect of climbing. They give climbers a shorthand to discuss how hard a climb is. What are climbing grades? These grades sort climbs into distinct classes of difficulty. This universal system is intended to allow climbers to more easily select routes appropriate for their skill level.
These grades are a product of the climbers who first ascend the route, report on how it climbs, and then others chime in. This is the only way to maintain some level of fairness, but it results in grades being quite soft. For instance, what one climber considers a 7a+ would be closer to a 7b for a different climber.
These discrepancies become magnified on outdoor climbs where the weather, style, and rock type can all affect the equation. Today, most climbers agree on two primary grading systems for roped climbing. The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) is popular in the United States, and the French Scale is widely used across the globe.
The French Scale starts at 1 and goes up to 9. It includes additional designations with letters “a,” “b,” and “c,” as well as the symbols “+” and “–,” to further subdivide grades into smaller progressive steps. This additional information is useful to climbers so they can understand what they might be facing. For example, 7b+ is a better indicator than 7b alone.
Bouldering is climbing short and tough routes, usually no more than 15 feet. The two most common grading systems are the V-Scale, from V0-V17, and Font Scale, 3-9a. The Font Scale originated in France, while the V-Scale originated at Hueco Tanks in Texas.
Grades are not just numbers. They show where a climber stands, help set goals, and make it easier to talk about progress. As more routes are developed and as the overall skill level of climbers increases, grades on climbs continue to change.
The 7b+ to V Scale Puzzle
For an established climber, being perplexed over the difference between Font (French) scale and the V scale is the least of their worries. The European Font scale uses grades such as 7b+ to denote bouldering problems. Across the U.S., bouldering gyms and outdoor bouldering areas have fully adopted the V scale.
The scale goes from V0, the simplest boulders, to V17, the hardest. Knowing how 7b+ maps to the V scale helps climbers set clear goals and track progress when moving between regions or guidebooks.
The grade 7b+ is not a true equivalent to one V grade. The consensus among climbers is that it’s somewhere between V12 and V13. Even this conversion is subject to local grading practices, as well as the style of the problem.
This makes converting between the two scales more an art than a science. Indeed, a V12 boulder problem in Bishop, California would have a very different character from the same grade 7b+ in Fontainebleau, France. Getting up a climb at this level requires muscle, technical expertise, and mental endurance.
This is the case no matter which collective scale you decide to work with. Both grades require the same level of intense concentration, excellent core strength, and capacity to read complex lines.
Key differences between the Font and V scales include:
- The Font scale employs a mix of numbers and letters (e.g., 7b+) whereas the V scale employs “V” plus a number.
- The V scale is more typical in North America, Font in Europe.
- Font grades often have a plus (+) or an “a/b/c” designation to add some shades of grey.
The V scale counterpart sometimes employs + or – but not as often. The V scale has broad categories: Beginner (V0-V3), Intermediate (V4-V6), Advanced (V7-V9), Expert (V10-V13), Jedi (V14-V16), and Climbing Demi-God (V17).
As routes are reclimbed or new standards developed, grades in either system can be modified.
How Grades Evolved Over Time
Climbing grades have changed a great deal since their inception. They are representative of the myriad places climbers go, what they climb and how they talk about what they climb. The Fontainebleau grading system, which was first developed in Fontainebleau, France, in the 1940s, established an objective standard for grading boulders based on difficulty. This allowed climbers to gauge what they would encounter on a boulder field or climbing trip.
The Font scale, as it’s known, went on to become the standard for bouldering grades across the planet. Three years later, the climb is still a popular and successful endeavor. Burden of Dreams in Finland, 9A (Font), is an example of how far climbing grades have come.
Meanwhile, over in North America, the V scale arose in the 1990s, predominantly from Hueco Tanks, Texas. It began with John Sherman and company looking for a simple, open-ended way to refer to tough boulders. The V scale is based on numbers beginning at V0, now extending upward to V17.
This debased system quickly gained momentum and spread throughout the U.S. Then the world. The V scale and the Font scale are the primary scales used today to communicate the difficulty of boulder problems.
For many, climbing is not only visceral, but very personal. Grades provide a useful point of reference and instruction. The subjective experience of difficulty on a climb is different for every climber.
As time went on, alternative local grading systems emerged to better serve community needs. The Russian system goes from 1A to 6B and is described with adjectives such as “moderate” or “very difficult.” WI-grades for ice climbing and mixed M-grades rate steepness and danger in ice climbing.
Major changes, such as Francois Labande’s French scale in the 80s, are examples of how grades evolve over time. New climbing areas, such as Helmcken Falls in Canada, force grades to shift.
Practical Conversion Tips
Converting from the Font to V scale and vice-versa might seem intimidating at first, but with a consistent approach it is simple enough to do. First, understand that a V0 is essentially the same as a 5.8 route—super easy and ideal for beginners.
When sizing up grades, use simple chart matches: Font 3 lines up with VB, 4 with V0, 4+ with V0+, 5 with V1, and 5+ with V2. For more difficult ascents, 6A equates to roughly V3, 6C to near V5, and 7A to roughly V6. These creative conversions serve as excellent inspiration and advice for you.
Keep in mind that hard/soft V grades can vary widely. One V7 can seem a lot harder than another. To test your ability between systems, send both Font and V-scale challenges if possible. Indoors, V7 and up is not usually the limit, and outdoors, V5 and up is unusual for the majority.
After you boulder a V3, boulder a 6A and see how they compare. Competitive advanced boulderers typically train at the V6-V8 or 7A-7B range. The V-scale is open, with the hardest problems topping out at V17 as of this writing. Grades do not account for the height of the move or the risk of falling.
For quick help, use these tools:
- Chart from your gym’s wall or website
- Online converters (like Mountain Project’s tool)
- Grade tables in climbing guidebooks
- Apps with grade conversion features
Building on both scales provides you the practice and experience to truly know. As years go by, you’ll notice subtle changes in tone and difficulty.
Common Conversion Pitfalls
Transitioning from the 7b+ grade to the V scale isn’t always straightforward. Too many climbers get into serious danger as a result, because grading is subjective. What is a V5 to one climber could be a V4 or V6 to another. This is especially true even at the same gym or crag.
When traveling across regions, it only becomes more complicated. The V Scale may be the most popular grading scale in North America, but the Font Scale is widely employed in Europe and elsewhere around the world. Each takes a unique approach to depict the difficulty of a climb. The V Scale goes from V0 to V16.
By comparison, the Font Scale uses a mix of numbers and letters, like 6a or 7b. These matches are so difficult to make that climbers can get themselves into real trouble attempting to do so. A Font 7b+ doesn’t always mean a V8, no matter what conversion charts tell you.
Personal strengths make a huge difference as well. Whether a climber who excels at short, powerful moves might fly through a jumpy V7. They would likely have a very hard time completing a long Font 7b+. Just like rope climbers can struggle with boulder problems—not prospective new boulders but rope climbers—even when the grades match up on paper.
Whether you climb on artificial walls or real rock adds a new dimension. Indoors, a V0 could feel like a 5.8. This perception can change drastically once you step outside with the difference in rock quality and weather conditions.
Confusion mounts with the application of suffixes. Font Scale 6a, 6b, 6c, each convey different meanings. The shift from the first to the latter can sometimes be hard to discern. Grades are determined by coalitions, but even those can’t find consensus.
In order to prevent any confusion, rock climbers should always consult several different resources, inquire with locals, and keep in mind that grades are merely guidelines, not necessarily rules.
Why Understanding Conversion Matters
Knowing how to change grades like from 7b+ to V scale helps climbers make sense of their skills, no matter where they are. When someone has the ability to cross-reference grades between systems, it increases confidence in their respective grade-wise. For instance, if a climber climbs a V7 in the U.S., they will look for a 7a+ in Europe. After all, they’ve been there, done that with the challenge.
This dynamic allows them to select climbs appropriate for their skill level, maintaining safety while making the experience enjoyable. Being adept at converting grades helps with planning trips, too. It’s like climbing areas in the U.S., Europe, or Asia where everyone uses their own grading system. Know how these intersect with your skill set.
Next, select routes and determine objectives that match your tastes and skill set. At times the grades don’t line up one-to-one due to differences in how climbs are graded. The V-scale and Font system, for instance, employ different increments. This means a V5 may not be equivalent to a 6C+, so understanding the specifics will prevent unexpected disappointments.
Educating others about the dangers of our current grade-based system benefits both you and everyone else. When climbers discuss grades among themselves, they can clarify the difficulty of a climb, describe it, and provide other guidance. This expansion further develops the community as members begin to learn from one another.
Grade conversion inspires all of us to seek out different locations and approaches. It develops trust in a decision, like going from bouldering to sport climbing, or making a completely new decision. Grading can be imprecise at times. It evolves over time as climbs become popularized and as skill levels evolve. Understanding this history allows for more informed speculation about grades.
Beyond the Numbers: Personal Feel
Conversion between grading in bouldering, such as from 7b+, to the V scale, is frequently more artistic expression than scientific method. Numbers and letters only take you so far. Every climber knows that two climbs of the same grade can be worlds apart.
For example, a 7a+ might feel almost like a 7b to one climber, but another might breeze through it and think it’s just a hard 7a. Beyond the Numbers personal feel goes a long way. These last factors include height, reach, preferred style, and even your mood on a given day.
The person who has the fastest time of solving a problem often grades it, although that is only one perspective to be fair. On-sight climbers will have their own opinions, some saying it is “soft for the grade,” others saying it’s “hard for the grade.” This becomes obvious when climbers discuss “soft” V7s versus “hard” V7s—grades that indicate something beyond sheer power.
On a personal level, climbing isn’t about checking off numbers. Climbers create powerful personal narratives around particular climbs. They don’t just recall the letter grade, they have a memory of the perseverance it required to get to the top.
Breaking through a mental barrier or persevering through a challenging assignment can be more impactful than the letter grade received. Embracing a more personal approach is a reflection of your commitment and evolution. Climbing requires psychological endurance and rapid responsiveness to change.
These deeply personal but essential traits can’t be quantified in numbers. Whether by climbing journal, Instagram post, or TikTok video, these methods allow climbers to document these adventures. It invites everyone into the experience and illustrates that no two climbs are alike.
Each trip involves so much more than the numbers on the page.
Climbing Grade Conversions
Frequently Asked Questions
What does 7b+ mean in bouldering grades?
7b+ is a very high grade on the Fontainebleau (Font) scale, which is prevalent in Europe. It’s a 17-move dyno that features a thrilling 20-foot drop. In the U.S., climbers instead use the V scale.
What is the V scale equivalent of 7b+?
What is the V scale equivalent of 7b+? This conversion seems to be the most commonly accepted one among American climbers.
Why do climbing grades use different scales?
Each area creating its own grading system. Europe primarily employs the Font scale, while the United States uses the V scale. Both assist resident climbers in gauging problem difficulty.
Can I trust online grade conversion charts?
The reality is that undergrad conversion charts are not infallible. It may make a grade seem more challenging or relaxed depending on approach or place. Test problems out at your home gym or crag.
Why does understanding grade conversion matter for climbers?
Knowing how grades stack up against each other helps you know how to set goals and measure your progress. Why does understanding grade conversion matter to climbers?
Are V grades and Font grades used on the same climbs?
Typically, V grades are found in the United States and Font grades are generally used in Europe. Few gyms in the U.S. Would display both if they do, it would be for the sake of clarity.
How have climbing grades changed over time?
How have climbing grades changed over time? Climbing grades have changed as climbers begin to push their limits and create new moves. What used to be the hardest problem now serves as the benchmark for even harder climbs yet to come.