To those new to climbing, free solo and free climbing can sound alike. They are not the same. Each style follows different rules, uses different gear, and carries different levels of risk.

Key Takeaways

• Free solo and free climbing are different styles with clear differences in safety and gear.
• Each style has its own history, well-known climbers, and common methods.
• Understanding the risks and equipment helps explain how climbers approach each ascent.

How Free Solo Differs from Free Climbing

Free climbing and free solo climbing are not the same.

In free climbing, the climber uses hands and feet to move up the rock, but a rope and safety gear protect them from a fall.

In free soloing, the climber uses no rope and no protective gear.

The Story Behind Modern Free Climbing

Free climbing began in the early 1900s in Germany and Great Britain. Climbers relied on their hands and feet to move up rock, using ropes only for safety. This style slowly shaped modern climbing history.

In the 1970s, Yosemite Valley became the center of change. Climbers such as Jim Bridwell, John Bacher, John Long, and Ron Kauk raised standards on big walls like El Capitan and Half Dome.

Later, others pushed the limits even further:

• Lynn Hill free climbed The Nose on El Capitan
• Peter Croft completed bold free routes on major walls
• Climbers tested steep lines like Moonlight Buttress

These climbs redefined what free climbing could achieve on large rock faces.

Free Climbing vs. Aid Climbing

Free climbing and aid climbing both fall under roped climbing, but they use gear in very different ways.

In free climbing, the climber moves up the rock using only hands and feet on natural features. They place ropes, cams, or nuts only to stop a fall. The rope does not help them move upward. Their strength, balance, and skill drive every move.

In aid climbing, the climber uses gear to make progress. They place tools such as cams, nuts, or pitons into cracks and then step or pull on them. Many also use small webbing ladders, called aiders, to stand higher on the wall.

Forms of Free Climbing

Free climbing includes several styles. Each one uses the rock for upward movement, not gear. The main types of free climbing are shown below.

### Short-Rock Climbing (Bouldering)

Bouldering focuses on short climbs, often under 6 meters (20 feet). Climbers do not wear a rope or harness.

They rely on strength, balance, and careful footwork. Most climbers place a crash pad on the ground to soften a fall.

Bouldering takes place indoors and outdoors. Some events also test speed, similar to speed climbing, but on lower walls.

### Sport and Traditional Route Climbing

Both sport climbing and traditional climbing use a rope, harness, and safety gear. Climbers attach themselves to protection as they move up the wall.

• Sport climbing uses fixed metal bolts that stay in the rock.
• Traditional climbing requires the climber to place and remove their own gear.

Routes may be a single pitch, up to about 40 meters (130 feet), or many linked pitches that reach much higher.

Each method demands planning and safe rope skills.

### Rope-Free Solo Climbing

Free solo climbing involves climbing without a rope or protective gear. The climber depends only on natural holds.

A fall can cause serious injury or death.

Some climbers also practice deep water soloing, where they climb above water instead of land.

Types of Free Climbing Ascents

Free climbing uses clear terms to describe how a climber completes a route. Each style depends on falls, prior knowledge, and use of gear.

Clean Lead After Practice (Redpoint)

A redpoint happens when a climber starts at the ground and reaches the top anchors without falling. They cannot hang on the rope or pull on gear to move up.

The climber may have tried the route before. Once they link every move in one clean push, they earn the redpoint. Many climbers also call this a send.

A free solo ascent differs because the climber uses no rope at all.

First-Try Success: Flash and Onsight

Both styles require finishing the climb on the first attempt.

• Flash: The climber gets tips or beta before starting.
• Onsight: The climber begins with no prior information.

In both cases, they must climb without falls or rests on gear.

Practiced on Top Rope (Headpoint)

A headpoint occurs when a climber works the moves on toprope first.

After practice, they lead the route cleanly from bottom to top without falling.

The History of Free Solo

Free solo climbing existed long before Alex Honnold gained fame. Climbers began attempting rope-free ascents when free climbing grew popular in the late twentieth century.

Pioneers of free climbing, including Peter Croft, completed notable solos and helped shape the style and standards that later climbers followed. His name later drew widespread global attention.

Notable Free Solo Climbers

Alex Honnold

Alex Honnold stands as one of the most recognized names in free solo climbing. He climbed without ropes on large rock faces and pushed difficulty to new levels.

He followed a path shaped by earlier climbers like John Bachar and Peter Croft, who often climbed alone in Yosemite. Honnold also shared ties with modern leaders such as Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson, and Adam Ondra, though they focused more on roped climbs. His rise brought wide public attention to rope‑free ascents.

Dan Osman and Dean Potter

Dan Osman built a reputation for bold climbs and long controlled falls. He later died during a rope jump when his system failed.

Dean Potter mixed free solo climbing with BASE jumping. He died in a wingsuit accident. Both climbers drew inspiration from earlier figures like John Bachar and stood alongside strong athletes such as Chris Sharma and Lynn Hill, who shaped modern climbing standards.

Hansjörg Auer

Hansjörg Auer gained respect for a rope‑free climb of Attraverso il Pesce in Italy’s Dolomites. The route spans about 850 meters and carries a grade of 5.12c.

His skill linked him to European greats like Wolfgang Güllich and Catherine Destivelle, as well as bold climbers such as Alain Robert.

Brad Gobright

Brad Gobright earned admiration for his calm approach and strong desert climbs. He died in a rappelling accident in Mexico in 2019.

Many in the climbing world valued his quiet focus and steady commitment to high‑risk routes.

Key Contrasts Between Free Climbing and Free Soloing

Free climbing uses safety equipment. A free climber moves using hands and feet on the rock but wears a rope, harness, and protection. If the climber falls, the gear is meant to catch them.

Free soloing, also called solo climbing, uses no rope or backup system. The climber relies only on skill and control. A fall during soloing almost always leads to serious injury or death.

Comparing the Dangers of Free Climbing and Free Solo

Free climbing uses ropes and protective gear. Free solo climbing does not. This key difference greatly changes the level of risk.

In free climbing, a fall often ends with the rope catching the climber. Most climbing injuries include sprained ankles, cuts, or bruises. Serious harm can happen, but safety systems lower the chance of fatal consequences. Safety considerations such as harness checks and partner support play a major role.

Free solo climbing depends fully on self-reliance. There is no backup system. A single mistake can lead to broken bones or death.

Equipment Differences Between Free Climbing and Free Soloing

Free soloing uses very little climbing equipment. The climber often wears only climbing shoes and carries a chalk bag for grip during moves like crimping or smearing. There is no harness, no climbing rope, and no protective gear. Some may place a crash pad below short routes, but many solo climbs have no backup at all.

Free climbing requires far more protective equipment. The gear depends on the style.

A belayer manages the rope through a belay device. Climbers may use self-belay systems in some settings. In a climbing gym, fixed bolts and anchors stay in place. On big walls, climbers may also use a portaledge for rest.

1. Does Free Climbing Require No Rope?

Free climbing allows a rope, but the climber does not pull on it to move upward. They rely on hands and feet for progress.

• Free climbing: rope for fall protection only
• Free soloing: no rope or safety backup

2.Who Is Considered the Top Free Solo Climber?

Many climbers and fans view Alex Honnold as the best free solo climber in the world. He gained global attention after appearing in the Academy Award–winning film Free Solo. The film shows his rope-free climb of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park.

El Capitan rises about 1,000 meters and stands as one of the hardest big wall routes on earth. Climbing it without ropes demands:

• Strong physical control
• Careful planning
• Total focus

Honnold may not have the largest build, but he maintains solid strength and steady form, which matter most in free solo climbing.

3. How Do Free Climbers Descend?

After finishing a pitch on routes like Freerider or the Dawn Wall, climbers must return safely to the ground. They often choose one of these methods:

• Hike down a marked trail from the summit.
• Rappel using a rope fixed to anchors at the top.
• Downclimb part of the wall on easier sections of nearby climbing routes.

Frequently Asked Questions

How Do Safety Levels Compare Between Roped Climbing and Climbing Without a Rope?

Free climbing uses ropes and gear to stop a fall. If a climber slips, the rope and partner help reduce injury.

Free solo climbing does not use ropes or safety gear. A fall almost always leads to serious injury or death.

The main difference is simple:

• Free climbing: Fall protection in place
• Free soloing: No fall protection

How Do Training and Mental Focus Differ Between These Two Styles?

Free climbers train for strength, endurance, and technique. They also practice falling and trust their gear.

Free solo climbers must train their minds even more. They need full control over fear and strong focus. Small mistakes can have severe consequences.

Many solo climbers rehearse routes with ropes before climbing alone.

What Gear Does Each Type of Climbing Require?

Free climbing requires safety equipment. Climbers use:

• Rope
• Harness
• Belay device
• Quickdraws or other protection
• Climbing shoes and chalk

Free solo climbers use only:

• Climbing shoes
• Chalk

They do not carry ropes, harnesses, or protective gear.

Can a Roped Climber Move Into Solo Climbing?

Some climbers shift from free climbing to free soloing. This move requires careful thought.

They must have:

• Strong technical skill
• Deep route knowledge
• Mental control under stress

Most experienced climbers choose not to free solo because of the high risk.

What Dangers Come With Solo Climbing Compared to Roped Climbing?

Both styles carry risk. Rock can break, weather can change, and hands can slip.

In free climbing, ropes reduce the danger of a fall. Injuries can still happen, but survival rates are higher.

In free soloing, a fall often leads to death. The lack of protection creates extreme consequences.

What Major Milestones Stand Out in Solo Climbing History?

Several solo climbs gained global attention.

In 2017, Alex Honnold climbed El Capitan in Yosemite without a rope. This climb covered about 3,000 feet of vertical rock.

Other climbers have completed difficult solo ascents on famous routes in Europe and North America. These climbs showed high technical skill and mental control, but they also highlighted the serious risks of the sport.

The activity engages multiple muscle groups simultaneously, from the forearms and shoulders to the core and legs.

Beyond the physical demands, bouldering challenges the mind through problem-solving and route planning. Each climb presents a unique puzzle that requires strategic thinking and body awareness. This mental engagement sets it apart from traditional gym workouts and keeps participants motivated to return.

Understanding how bouldering affects the body and what benefits it offers helps individuals decide if it fits their fitness goals. The sport comes with specific considerations that differ from conventional exercise routines, making it important to know what to expect before starting.

How Bouldering Functions as a Workout

Bouldering engages multiple muscle groups simultaneously while demanding constant problem-solving and body awareness. The activity combines strength training, cardiovascular conditioning, and skill development into a single session that challenges both physical and mental capacities.

What Makes Bouldering Unique Compared to Other Workouts

Bouldering differs from conventional gym exercises by requiring climbers to adapt to unpredictable movements and holds. Unlike repetitive exercises like push-ups or pull-ups, each boulder problem presents a unique sequence of movements that targets muscles from varying angles.

The workout intensity fluctuates naturally based on the difficulty of routes and rest periods between attempts. Climbers engage in short bursts of intense effort followed by recovery, creating an interval training effect without structured timing.

Traditional strength training isolates specific muscle groups, but bouldering demands coordinated activation of multiple muscles simultaneously. A single move might require grip strength, core stabilization, and leg drive all working together. This integration builds functional strength that translates to real-world movements better than isolated exercises like planks alone.

Muscle Groups Worked During Bouldering

The forearms and hands receive constant stimulation from gripping holds of various sizes and textures. Forearm strength develops rapidly as climbers maintain tension through their fingers and wrists throughout the entire climbing sessions.

Upper body strength comes from pulling motions that activate the lats, biceps, and rotator cuff muscles. The back muscles work extensively to draw the body upward and maintain position on the wall.

Core strength proves essential for maintaining body tension and transferring force between the upper and lower body. The obliques engage heavily during twisting movements and when climbers shift their center of gravity.

Lower body muscles contribute more than beginners typically expect. The glutes, hamstrings, and calves generate upward momentum and provide stability. Techniques like heel hooks place significant demands on the hamstrings and hip flexors, creating soreness similar to dedicated leg workouts.

The Role of Strength and Endurance in Climbing

Muscular endurance determines how long climbers can maintain grip and body tension before failure. Routes lasting 30-90 seconds demand sustained muscle activation that builds endurance differently than cardiovascular activities.

Grip strength fatigues quickly during climbing sessions, forcing forearm muscles to work under continuous load. This creates a burning sensation that signals the buildup of metabolic byproducts in the tissue.

Power output matters during dynamic movements called dynos, where climbers launch themselves toward distant holds. These explosive moves develop fast-twitch muscle fibers and require both strength and coordination to execute successfully.

Coordination, Balance, and Flexibility

Climbing technique relies heavily on precise foot placement and weight distribution. Climbers must maintain balance on small footholds while reaching for the next hold, engaging stabilizer muscles throughout the body.

Coordination develops as climbers learn to sequence movements efficiently and time their transitions between holds. Complex boulder problems require memorizing move sequences and executing them with fluid timing.

Flexibility becomes increasingly important on advanced routes that demand high steps, wide reaches, or unusual body positions. Hip mobility allows climbers to bring their feet up to chest height, while shoulder flexibility enables extended reaches and twisting movements. Limited range of motion restricts access to certain holds and forces climbers into less efficient positions that waste energy.

Benefits and Considerations of Bouldering as a Workout

Bouldering delivers comprehensive fitness improvements through full-body engagement, mental challenge, and moderate calorie expenditure. The sport requires minimal equipment to begin and accommodates various fitness levels through scalable difficulty.

Physical and Mental Health Benefits

Bouldering strengthens multiple muscle groups simultaneously, targeting the forearms, shoulders, back, core, and legs through dynamic movements. The constant tension required to maintain holds builds muscular endurance similar to calisthenics, while the explosive movements between holds develop power.

The problem-solving aspect engages cognitive function as climbers analyze bouldering problems and plan efficient sequences. This mental component reduces stress and improves focus beyond what traditional gym workouts typically offer.

Cardiovascular endurance improves through repeated attempts at problems, though less intensely than running or cycling. The rest periods between attempts allow for recovery while maintaining an elevated heart rate. Indoor climbing facilities provide year-round training opportunities, though outdoor bouldering offers exposure to vitamin d and varied terrain.

Calorie Burn and Weight Management

A 150-pound person burns approximately 300-400 calories per hour during moderate bouldering sessions. Intensity varies based on route difficulty, rest time, and climbing efficiency.

The sport builds lean muscle mass, which increases resting metabolic rate over time. However, bouldering alone may not produce the same calorie burn as sustained cardio activities. Weight management success depends on session frequency, intensity, and dietary habits alongside climbing practice.

Accessibility, Equipment, and Getting Started

Most people can start bouldering at a bouldering gym with rental climbing shoes and chalk as the only required equipment. Initial costs remain lower than many fitness activities since gyms provide crash pads and route setting.

Basic equipment needs:

• Climbing shoes (rental or purchase $60-150)
• Chalk and chalk bag ($15-30)
• Comfortable athletic clothing

New climbers should begin on easier problems marked by color or grade systems at their facility. A spotter can provide safety assistance during attempts, though bouldering heights typically stay under 15 feet with padded flooring. Most gyms offer introductory classes covering basic techniques, safety protocols, and movement patterns. Progressive difficulty allows climbers to advance at their own pace while avoiding injury from attempting problems beyond their current ability.

The key to improving at climbing is mastering basic footwork and body positioning before trying to muscle through difficult routes. Most beginners rely too much on their arms and grip strength. They skip over the core techniques that make climbing easier and more efficient.

This guide breaks down the essential skills every climber needs to develop. It covers everything from foot placement to building endurance to creating better practice habits. Climbers who follow these methods will see clear improvements in their ability and confidence on the wall.

Key Takeaways

• Focus on proper footwork and body positioning instead of relying on arm strength alone
• Build climbing-specific strength through consistent practice and targeted training exercises
• Use smart practice methods and maintain a positive mindset to progress steadily through harder routes

Understand the Basics of Climbing

Climbing involves three main styles that suit different skill levels and goals, a grading system that measures difficulty, and specific gear that keeps climbers safe and helps them perform better.

Types of Climbing and Their Benefits

Bouldering involves climbing short walls without ropes, typically 12-15 feet high. Climbers use crash pads below to cushion falls. This style builds strength quickly and lets climbers practice moves repeatedly. Most climbing gyms have dedicated bouldering areas with padded floors.

Top rope climbing uses a rope anchored at the top of the wall. A partner on the ground holds the rope to catch falls. This method is the safest way to start because falls are short and controlled. It works well for learning basic techniques and building endurance on longer routes.

Sport climbing requires climbers to clip their rope into bolts as they move up the wall. This style teaches risk management and requires more experience than top rope. Outdoor climbing often uses this method on natural rock types like granite, limestone, and sandstone.

Indoor climbing provides a controlled environment to learn all three styles. Outdoor climbing adds challenges like weather, uneven rock surfaces, and route finding.

Climbing Grades and What They Mean

Climbing grades measure route difficulty using different systems. The Yosemite Decimal System rates rock climbing routes from 5.0 to 5.15, with higher numbers meaning harder climbs. A 5.5 route suits beginners, while 5.10 and above challenges experienced climbers.

V-scale grades measure bouldering problems from V0 to V17. Most beginners start at V0 or V1. Each number jump represents a significant difficulty increase.

Grades consider hold size, wall angle, required technique, and necessary strength. A 5.8 route at one climbing gym might feel easier or harder than a 5.8 at another location. Grades serve as guidelines, not exact measurements.

Essential Climbing Gear

Climbing shoes are the most important piece of gear. They fit snugly to provide precision on small holds. Beginners should choose comfortable shoes with flat profiles. Specialized shoes for advanced climbing come later.

Harnesses connect climbers to ropes for top rope and sport climbing. They must fit properly around the waist and thighs. Bouldering does not require harnesses.

Chalk dries sweaty hands to improve grip. Climbers carry it in small bags attached to their waist.

A belay device controls the rope when a partner climbs. The belayer uses this tool to catch falls and lower climbers safely. Climbing gyms often require belay certification before allowing rope climbing.

Perfect Your Footwork and Balance

Good footwork saves energy and makes hard climbs feel easier. Climbers who focus on precise foot placement and balance can climb longer routes without getting tired.

Precise Foot Placement Techniques

Climbers should place their feet deliberately on footholds rather than just stepping anywhere. The ball of the foot works best for most footholds because it provides the most control and power. When stepping on a hold, climbers need to look at where their foot will go before moving it.

Small footholds require extra attention. Climbers should use the inside or outside edge of their shoe depending on the angle. The toe should point in the direction they plan to move next.

Once a foot is on a hold, it should stay there. Adjusting or repositioning feet wastes energy and can throw off balance. Climbers should commit to each foot placement and trust it before moving upward.

Building Balance on the Wall

Balance keeps a climber’s center of gravity over their feet. This reduces the strain on arms and hands. Climbers should keep their hips close to the wall and position their body over their feet whenever possible.

Key balance techniques:

• Shift weight smoothly between feet
• Keep three points of contact on the wall
• Use straight arms to conserve energy
• Position hips based on hold locations

Climbers often need to drop one hip or flag a leg to maintain balance on overhanging sections. A flag involves extending one leg out to counterbalance body position without placing it on a hold.

Trusting and Using Your Legs

Legs are much stronger than arms, yet many beginners rely too heavily on upper body strength. Climbers should push with their legs rather than pull with their arms. This climbing technique helps prevent fatigue and allows for longer sessions.

Standing up on footholds engages the leg muscles properly. Climbers should think about pushing their body upward from their feet. Each move should start with the legs doing most of the work while arms mainly provide stability.

Building trust in footholds takes practice. Climbers need to believe their feet will hold before committing their weight. Testing a foothold gently, then fully weighting it, helps build this confidence over time.

Develop Essential Climbing Techniques

Mastering specific body movements transforms a struggling climber into someone who moves efficiently up the wall. These techniques reduce energy waste and open up routes that previously seemed impossible.

Body Positioning for Efficiency

Keeping hips close to the wall is the foundation of efficient climbing. When a climber’s hips drift away from the rock, their arms bear most of their body weight. This position exhausts the arms quickly.

Proper body positioning means keeping three points of contact on the wall while moving the fourth. The climber’s center of gravity should stay over their feet, not hanging from their arms.

Key positioning principles:

• Straight arms – Bent arms tire faster than straight arms
• High feet – Placing feet higher engages leg muscles instead of arm muscles
• Hip rotation – Turning hips toward the wall on steep terrain keeps the body closer to holds

On slab climbing, the body stays perpendicular to the rock face. The climber pushes their hips forward and keeps weight on their toes. This stance maximizes friction and prevents feet from slipping.

Flagging, Drop Knees, and Heel Hooks

Flagging stabilizes the body when only three holds are available. The climber extends one leg out to the side or behind, using it as a counterbalance. This technique prevents the body from swinging away from the wall.

A drop knee involves rotating the hip and dropping the knee toward the ground. The inside edge of the foot presses against the hold while the knee points down. This move allows climbers to reach distant holds and rest on steep walls.

The heel hook places the heel on a hold above waist level. The climber pulls with their hamstring and core muscles. This climbing move is essential for overhangs and roof sections where arm strength alone isn’t enough.

Dynamic Moves and Overhangs

Dynamic moves involve momentum to reach holds that static positioning can’t access. The climber bends their knees, then explodes upward in one controlled motion. Timing and accuracy matter more than raw power.

Overhangs require specific techniques because gravity pulls the climber away from the wall. Keeping feet high and using heel hooks maintains body tension. Core engagement prevents the lower body from sagging.

The crux of many overhanging routes involves a dynamic move between two poor holds. Climbers generate momentum from their legs, not their arms. They commit fully to the movement rather than hesitating halfway through.

Essential overhang techniques:

• Engage core muscles constantly
• Move quickly through difficult sections
• Rest on straight arms between moves
• Use momentum instead of static strength

Build Climbing-Specific Strength and Endurance

Climbers need targeted strength training that focuses on finger strength, upper body power, and muscular endurance. A structured training schedule with proper rest allows the body to adapt and prevents injury.

Finger Strength and Grip Types

Finger strength is the foundation of climbing ability. Climbers use three main grip types on the wall: crimps, pinches, and slopers.

Crimps require bent fingers on small edges and put significant stress on finger tendons. Pinches use the thumb pressing against the fingers to hold volumes or wider features. Slopers demand open-hand strength where the fingers stay relatively straight against rounded holds.

Each grip type uses different muscles and tendons. A climber should train all three types to avoid weaknesses on varied terrain.

New climbers should build baseline grip strength through regular climbing before adding specific finger training. Experienced climbers can target weak grip types by choosing routes that emphasize those holds.

Upper Body and Core Conditioning

Upper body strength helps climbers pull through difficult moves and maintain body tension. The back, shoulders, and arms work together during every climbing movement.

Pull-ups and rows build the pulling muscles needed for overhanging terrain. Push-ups and shoulder exercises create balanced strength that prevents injury. Core exercises like planks and leg raises help climbers keep their feet on the wall during steep sections.

Climbers should include these exercises 2-3 times per week:

• Pull-ups (3 sets of 5-10 reps)
• Rows (3 sets of 8-12 reps)
• Planks (3 sets of 30-60 seconds)
• Shoulder presses (2 sets of 8-10 reps)

Body tension comes from core strength. A strong core allows climbers to transfer power from their legs to their upper body efficiently.

Campus Board and Hangboard Training

The campus board is a training tool with wooden rungs or holds spaced vertically. Climbers use it without feet to build explosive upper body power and contact strength. Campus board exercises involve dynamic movements between rungs.

A hangboard is a board with various holds for finger strength training. It allows climbers to safely load their fingers in a controlled way.

Hangboard sessions typically last 30-45 minutes and include:

• Warm-up climbs or exercises
• 3-6 grip positions
• 10-second hangs with 3-minute rest
• 3-5 repeats per grip type

Campus board training suits advanced climbers only. Beginners risk injury because their tendons have not adapted to high loads. Hangboards work for intermediate climbers who have at least one year of consistent climbing experience.

Both tools require complete rest between efforts. Quality matters more than quantity in finger strength training.

Training Schedule and Rest Days

A balanced training schedule includes climbing days, strength training days, and rest days. Most climbers train 3-4 days per week with at least one full rest day between intense sessions.

Rest days allow tendons and muscles to repair and grow stronger. Fingers and tendons need 48-72 hours to recover from hard efforts. Climbing or training too frequently leads to overuse injuries and decreased performance.

A sample weekly schedule might look like this:

Endurance improves through high-volume climbing sessions with many laps on easier routes. Strength develops during shorter sessions focused on difficult moves with long rest periods.

Climbers should listen to their bodies and take extra rest when tendons feel sore or tired. Consistent moderate training produces better results than sporadic intense efforts.

Master Movement and Climbing Skills

Strong movement skills and solid technique separate average climbers from great ones. Climbers who focus on precise footwork, quiet movement, and smart route reading make faster progress than those who rely only on strength.

Practicing Traversing and Downclimbing

Traversing builds endurance and teaches climbers to move efficiently across the wall. Instead of always climbing straight up, a climber should spend time moving sideways along the wall at the same height. This practice improves balance and forces the body to use different muscle groups.

Downclimbing develops control and reveals weaknesses in technique. Most climbers only practice going up, but learning to down climb safely makes them more aware of foot placement and body position. A climber should downclimb routes they can already complete easily.

Start with simple traverses on easy terrain. Move across the wall for 20-30 feet, focusing on smooth weight shifts and precise foot placement. As skills improve, traverse on steeper walls or use smaller holds.

Climbing Quietly and Effortlessly

Quiet climbing shows good technique and control. When a climber moves without making noise, they waste less energy and maintain better balance. Loud foot scrapes or slapping hands on holds indicate rushed, inefficient movement.

Climbers should place their feet deliberately on holds instead of slapping them down. Each foot placement should be intentional and quiet. The same applies to hands – grabbing holds smoothly uses less energy than aggressive movements.

Key elements of quiet climbing:

• Place feet precisely on the best part of each hold
• Shift weight gradually between holds
• Keep hips close to the wall
• Move with controlled speed, not rushed movements

Practice this skill on easy routes where strength is not a limiting factor. Focus entirely on silent, smooth movement until it becomes natural.

Improving Route Reading and Beta

Route reading means studying a climb before starting it. Good climbers identify rest spots, difficult sections, and the best sequence of moves. This mental preparation saves energy and reduces the chance of getting stuck.

Beta refers to specific information about how to climb a route. A climber should look for obvious holds, but also notice body positions, foot sequences, and where to clip quickdraws on sport routes. Taking two minutes to read a route can save ten minutes of struggling.

Stand back from the wall to see the full route. Identify large features like corners, overhangs, or distinct hold colors. Then look closer at individual moves and transitions between sections.

Experimenting With New Techniques

Trying different climbing techniques helps climbers improve faster and solve problems on the wall. A climber who only uses familiar methods will plateau quickly. Testing new approaches reveals better ways to move efficiently.

Common techniques to practice include:

• Flagging: Extending one leg out for balance instead of placing it on a hold
• Heel hooks: Pulling with the heel on a hold to reduce arm strain
• Knee bars: Jamming the knee and foot against rock for a no-hands rest
• Drop knees: Turning the hip into the wall while dropping one knee down

Each technique works best in specific situations. A climber should climb a lot on varied terrain to learn when each method helps most. Trying these moves on easier routes first builds confidence before applying them to harder climbing goals.

Progress Through Effective Practice

Smart practice separates climbers who improve quickly from those who plateau. Setting specific targets, following a training plan, and preparing the body properly before climbing sessions leads to measurable gains in strength and skill.

Creating Climbing Goals

Climbers need specific, measurable goals rather than vague wishes to improve. A beginner climber might aim to complete three 5.9 routes cleanly within two months, while an intermediate climber could target sending their first 5.11a by spring. Writing down these goals and tracking attempts makes progress visible.

Goals should include both performance targets and skill development. A climber might focus on improving footwork precision, building finger strength, or reducing rest time between routes. Breaking larger goals into weekly or monthly milestones keeps motivation high.

Sharing goals with a climbing partner creates accountability. Partners can observe technique, provide encouragement, and celebrate achievements together. The climbing community often supports goal-setting through group challenges or friendly competitions at the gym.

Incorporating Structured Training

Structured training follows a planned schedule rather than random climbing sessions. Climbers should dedicate specific days to different aspects like endurance, power, or technique work. A simple weekly structure might include two technique days, one strength day, and one endurance day.

Beginner climbers benefit from focusing on volume and movement variety. They should climb many different routes at comfortable grades to build a foundation. Intermediate climbers need targeted weakness training, such as campus board work for power or 4x4s for endurance.

Rest days are part of structured training. Muscles grow stronger during recovery, not during climbing. Most climbers need at least two full rest days per week to prevent injury and allow adaptation.

Using Warm-Ups Effectively

A proper warm-up prepares tendons, muscles, and joints for climbing stress. Climbers should start with 5-10 minutes of light cardio like jumping jacks or jogging to increase blood flow. Dynamic stretches for shoulders, hips, and ankles come next.

The climbing warm-up begins on easy terrain well below the climber’s limit. Starting on routes two or three grades below their project level allows movement patterns to activate without strain. Gradually increasing difficulty over 20-30 minutes reduces injury risk significantly.

Finger-specific warming matters most for climbing. Gentle hangs on large holds and progressive loading of smaller holds prepares tendons for intensive gripping. Skipping this step leads to pulley strains and other finger injuries that can sideline climbers for months.

Optimize Your Climbing Environment and Mindset

The right setting and mental approach can make a big difference in climbing progress. Finding supportive spaces, respecting physical limits, and staying mentally engaged helps climbers improve steadily over time.

Benefits of Climbing Gyms and Community

Climbing gyms offer controlled settings where climbers can practice safely year-round. These facilities provide routes at different difficulty levels, allowing climbers to progress at their own pace. Most climbing gyms also maintain equipment and update routes regularly to keep training fresh.

The climbing community at these gyms creates valuable learning opportunities. A climbing partner can spot problems in technique that might otherwise go unnoticed. They also provide safety support during belaying and can share tips from their own experience.

Key advantages of gym communities include:

• Access to experienced climbers who demonstrate proper technique
• Opportunities to learn from watching others tackle difficult routes
• Built-in motivation through friendly competition and shared goals
• Safety through partner checks and group awareness

A beginner climber often learns faster in gym environments than climbing alone outdoors. The social aspect reduces intimidation and makes asking questions easier.

Listening to Your Body and Injury Prevention

Climbers need to recognize when their body signals fatigue or pain. Fingers, shoulders, and elbows face significant stress during climbing. Pushing through sharp pain or persistent discomfort leads to injuries that can sideline climbers for months.

Rest days are as important as training days. Tendons and ligaments need more recovery time than muscles. Most climbers should take at least one or two full rest days per week.

Warning signs to watch for:

• Sharp pain in fingers or joints
• Swelling that lasts more than a day
• Decreased grip strength
• Pain that worsens during climbing

Listen to your body by stopping immediately when something feels wrong. Minor discomfort often becomes major injury when ignored. Warming up before climbing and stretching afterward reduces injury risk significantly.

Maintaining Motivation and Overcoming Plateaus

Progress in climbing naturally slows after initial gains. Plateaus happen when the body adapts to current training methods. Changing workout routines breaks through these stalls.

Setting specific, measurable goals keeps motivation high during flat periods. A climber might aim to complete a particular route grade or hold a hanging position for a set time. These concrete targets provide direction when general improvement seems to stall.

Trying different climbing styles refreshes mental engagement. Someone who usually boulders can try top-rope climbing. Outdoor climbing offers new challenges compared to gym routes. Even switching to a different climbing gym introduces fresh routes and problems.

Tracking progress in a journal shows improvement that might not feel obvious day-to-day. Recording completed routes, training sessions, and personal bests reveals patterns and growth over weeks and months.

If you want to keep up with Alex, you can follow him on Instagram, Facebook, his website, and YouTube, as well as podcasts like The Struggle and Jam Crack.

Notable Climbs

In the early years, climbing star Alex Megos had his first 5.13b in 2007, his first 5.14b in 2009 (Drive-By Shooting), and his first 5.14d in 2011 with San Ku Kai in France. He claimed Australia’s first 5.14d The Red Project in August of 2013, and the first 9b in a German-speaking country with Supernova in 2015. In 2017, he passed Adam Ondra’s high point on Black Diamond’s The Project, which is a set indoor problem in Stockholm, Sweden. Every climbing magazine seemed to be reporting on his achievements and the community was excited to see where he could take his talent.

In 2022, he seemed to be focusing on first ascents with grades 9a+, and claimed Patatas Pantera, Ratstaman Vibrations, Chan Chan Bastards, Pink Patatas, and The Full Journey. Here below are some other notable climbs, listed in order from most recent to past. His climbing style pushes him to send some of the toughest problems and most challenging routes in the world and he has many notable climbs to show for it.

Bibliographie (9b+) – 2020

Right next to Biographie in Ceuse (which Alex climbed in 2014), is Bibliographie, a 9b+ route that was originally suggested to be a 9c. It took Alex sixty days of effort over multiple years, but he claimed the first ascent of the route, which was bolted by Ethan Pringle in 2009. To this day, it’s considered one of the hardest routes in the world.

First 9b (5.15c) – Perfecto Mundo in 2018

Perfecto Mundo (5.15c) is one of the most popular 9b+ routes in the world (route bolted by Chris Sharma). Alex claimed the first ascent, making it his first 9b+ and he became only the third person in the world to tick the grade. Megos confirmed that it took him 15 days but he said on Facebook that it was “an important process in [his] climbing career.“

First Round, First Minute (5.15b) – 2015

On New Year’s Eve in 2015, Alex finally clipped the chains of First Round, First Minute after five days of effort on the Chris Sharma route from 2011. It had only been repeated by Adam Ondra, and Megos got the third ascent while on a trip to the Laboratorio sector of Margalef, Spain. His effort was significant because it marked Alex’s hardest ascent to date and his first 5.15b.

First Ascent of New River (5.14c) – Pebble Project in 2015

Only a few days after Superpod (5.14d), Alex put up the Red River Gorge’s first 5.14c with Pebble Project. It’s located on the Brilliant Pebble in Meadow River Gorge and it took him just two tries.

First Ascent of New River Gorge’s First 5.14d – Superpod in 2015

While on a trip to New River Gorge in Kentucky, Alex extended an existing route called Pod (5.13b) to create Superpod (5.14d). This created the Red’s first 5.14d and it took Alex only four tries before he successfully completed the 20+ year old project, which was equipped back in 1992 by Porter Jarrard.

3rd Ascent of Lucid Dreaming (V15) – 2015

In 2015, Alex took the 3rd ascent of Lucid Dreaming (V15), a “next level” boulder problem in Bishop, California. The first ascent was by Paul Robinson in 2010 and Daniel Woods claimed the second, after which they both agreed to settle on V15 instead of the original V16 estimate. On Facebook, Alex wrote: “Feels like a DREAM but it’s not. Finally took down my hardest boulder ever and as well my longest project ever!”

Biographie (5.15a) in a Day – 2014

While Megos claimed the 9th ascent of Biographie (5.15a) in Ceuse, he did take the fastest time to date and completed the route in only three tries, all of which were in a single day. It was first climbed by Chris Sharma but it took him years, and the following ascents required a significant amount of time even though they were from the world’s most elite climbers. Needless to say, Alex’s 3rd-go-ascent shocked the climbing community.

Climbing in Ceuse and Rocklands – 2014

In 2014, Alex Megos was still relatively unknown but was spending some time in well known Ceuse and Rocklands. He unlocked some outrageous beta and threw some huge dynos on the famous Sky (V14), and he also got agonizingly close to established a new 5.15a before breaking a crucial hold. It was during this trip that he claimed the first ascent of Et dieu crea la Flemme (5.14d) and ticked Biographie (5.15a) in a single day (see above).

Action Directe (5.14d) in Two Hours – 2014

The first climber of Action Directe was German climber Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 and it was the first climb in the world to have a consensus 9a (5.14d) grade. Although Alex was the 16th climber, its considered an important and historic route and he completed it in only two hours at the age of 20. Because of the route’s age and limited number of repeats, it goes to show just how difficult it is and how impressive it was that Megos completed it in such a short amount of time.

Alex’s US Trip to Heuco Tanks, On Fire in the US – 2013

In the summer and fall of 2013, Alex spent 121 days on US soil and created quite the impressive ticklist – he climbed more 8a’s than the number of days he was here (135 8a or up compared to 121 days). He wrapped up his four month tour in Hueco Tanks, Texas, where in a single day he sent Flower Power (V10/11), Crown of Aragorn (V13), Power of Landjager (v11), The Full Monty (V12), and Crown Royale (V13).

In addition, he also visited Rumney, New Hampshire where he sent Fly (5.14d) and China Beach (5.14b) second try; Red River Gorge in Kentucky where he flashed Pure Imagination (5.14c)and sent countless others like The Tube (5.14b), Golden Ticket (5.14c), and Southern Smoke (5.14c); Colorado where he flashed Gutless Wonder (5.14b) and spent some time crack climbing; Red Rock, Nevada, where he sent Wet Dream (V12); and Bishop California, where he sent Evilution Direct (V11), The Mandala (V11), and flashed Blood Meridian (V13).

This was an extremely expressive stint of time in America and it really solidified Alex’s place amongst the top climbers of this generation.

Wheel of Life (V15) – 2013

The Wheel of Life (v15) is the ultimate roof problem and to this day it’s only been sent by eleven climbers. Megos completed it in only two days while in the Grampians’ Hollow Mountain Cave, which was the fastest ascent of this problem at that time.

Corona (5.15a) – 2013

Back on his home turf in Germany, Alex claimed the 3rd ascent of Corona (5.15a) at Frankenjura. It was established by Markus Bock back in 2006 and was considered the hardest route in the area next to Classified (5.15a), which was added by Megos himself.

World’s First 9a Onsight – Estado Critico in 2013

At only 19 years old, Megos shocked the climbing community with the world’s first onsight of a 9a (5.14d) with Estado Critico in Siurana, Spain. He snagged the title from Adam Ondra, who was poised to tick the grade first after downgrading his own first 9a onsight to an 8c+ (Golden Ticket). Without getting too much into the specifics of grades and downgrades, this onsight was one of the hardest ever done.

Titles

First Ascents: Bibliographie, Perfecto Mundo, Fight Club, Ratstaman Vibrations, The Full Journey, Supernova, and many more.

2017- silver medal /runner up for boulder at European Championships and IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup

2018- bronze medal in lead climbing at the IFSC Lead World Cup, gold medal at Briancon World Cup, bronze medal World Championships in the lead competition

2019- silver medal lead World Championships

2020- Olympics

Resources:

• DMM
• Alexander-Megos.de
• Planet Mountain
• Climbing.com
• Climbing-History.org
• Mountain Project

Cover photo from Alexander-Megos.de

In 2016, she had to take another several months off after undergoing spinal fusion surgery for a herneated disk between the C5 and C6 vertebrae. She came back strong again, won the 2018 World Cup in Vail, climbed several V14’s (like The Penrose Step) and continues to climb to this day. She is just naturally good at rock climbing and now has her own company with husband Robin O’Leary that offers personalized coaching services, core workouts, and training programs for climbers all over the world.

You can follow her on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, and YouTube. If you want to learn even more about Alex Puccio, consider listening to this interview with Friction Labs and the TrainingBeta Podcast in 2015. While there’s limited information about her climbs on Climbing History in the last few years, she’s very active on Instagram and that’s the best place to keep up with her more recent ascents.

Notable Climbs

2022 Climbs

The year 2022 was full of great climbs for Puccio and she claimed multiple V13 and V14 (8B and 8B+) problems like Hailstorm (V14), Steppenwolf (V13), Tigris SDS (V14), and We Can Build You (V14). For Hailstorm (V14), Alex worked with Michaela Kiersch to be the first recorded ascents and she’s the first recorded ascent for Tigris SDS (V14). We Can Build You is a V14 that was originally worked by Dave Graham in 2010 and has no recorded ascents since then.

Huge Day in Hueco Including Crown of Aragorn – 2016

A few days after the Rock Rodeo competition, Alex had an outstanding day climbing in Hueco and sent a V13 (Crown of Aragorn) in addition to three V9’s and two V12’s. The three V9’s were Glass Ass Crack, Ministry of Truth, and Windy Ass; the two V12’s were Full Monty and Platonique.

Hueco Rock Rodeo 2016

In February of 2016, Alex Puccio won the Hueco Rock Rodeo with ascents of Dirty Martini on the Rocks (V9), Choir Boys Low (V9), Power of Silence (V10), Chblanke (v11), Diaphanous Sea (V11/12), and Tequila Sunrise.

Two More V13’s in Hueco Tanks – 2016

During a short trip to Hueco, Alex Puccio put down Slashface (V13), as well as Power of Landjager (V11) Scream (V10), and Nagual (V13). For both the V13’s, this was their first female ascent! Nagual only took her two tries and about an hour of work – Alex posted on her Instagram “these crimps are so sharp, but really cool movement! As for Slashface, this was her second day on the boulder (first day was several years ago) and she called it her “dream boulder.

Automator (V13) – 2014

It was around this time that Alex Puccio took a step away from competition bouldering and focused more on her outdoor climbing. She posted on Facebook:

“After not having a great season at the World Cups I realized I had to change something within myself and my climbing. I had put way too much pressure on myself and couldn’t handle it anymore. My brain, body and emotions were so depleted of psych and energy I made the decision to skip the last 2 World Cups this year and just go outside climbing. It was so nice to reboot and just feel free of everything for a change. In these last few months I have learned so much about myself physically and mentally…”

Later in 2014, Alex would sent Automator (13), which is located in RMNP. It was the third female ascent of this route and it was Alex’s third V13 that season. It was originally established by Dave Graham and Angie Payne claimed the first female ascent (Ashima Shiraishi was second in 2013) of a V13 on this boulder back in 2010.

The Hardest Move Ever Done by a Women (at the time) at Jade (V14) – 2014

Jade (V14) is located in RMNP’s Upper Chaos Canyon and was Alex’s first V14. This accomplishment made Puccio the fourth female climber to tick this grade behind Tomoko Ogawa, Ashima Shiraishi, and Shauna Coxsey. On her fourth day at the problem, she completed it first go. Though at the time it was a V14, the original grade was V15, which held for almost three years before being downgraded. Even with it now being a solid V14, one could argue that ‘the move’ on this route is one of the hardest ever done by a woman.

Top Notch (V13) – 2014

Alex Puccio sent her first V13 in July of 2014 in Rocky Mountain National Park’s Chaos Canyon. Top Notch (V13) was first sent in 2008 by Ty Landman and has since been repeated by big names like Daniel Woods, Carlo Traversi, and more. The boulder problem has a first move that is referred to as “one of the most difficult moves in all of RMNP” (ClimbingNarc) and Alex called it one of the best boulders she had ever climbed.

Alex Makes Pulling Double Digits Look Easy in RMNP – 2010

After several competitions and the Vail World Cup in 2010, Alex spent some time in RMNP and was able to make the first female ascent of Centaur (V12). Despite terrible weather conditions and a split tip, she was able to complete the steep line.

Hueco Tanks – 2012

Though a lot of Alex’s climbs are in RMNP, she’s had several visits to Hueco over the years. Back in 2012, she put together this compilation video of some sends that ranged from V10-11, which really showcase her talent in her early twenties. She sent Sunshine (V11), Eckstein (V10), Theater of the Absurd (V10), Left Martini (V10), and Full Service (V10). To view the video, go here.

Resources

• Outside Online
• UK Climbing
• Climbing.com
• Gripped
• Climbing History
• Cover photo from Joel Zerr 

As for competition climbing, Carlo Traversi won the USA Climbing Sport National Champion in 2009 and 2011. He also won first place in the 2017 Tuckfest Deep Water Solo Competition, second place in the USA Climbing Bouldering National Cup Series in 2017/18, and third place in the 2016 USA Climbing Bouldering National Championships.

Carlo spends a lot of his time travelling to both old and new places, is still a very active climber, and owns a climbing gym, The Boulder Field, in Sacramento, California. He can be found teaching clinics for Professional Climbers International, learning new things, route setting, and doing some hard bouldering across the U.S.

You can follow Carlo on Instagram, Facebook, and on his website. On his website, he has some cool lists like his top 10 boulder problems and more notable sends. He also has been on the Training Beta podcast, which you can listen to here.

Notable Climbs

Magic Line (5.14c)

Black Diamond called this route “one of the hardest single pitch trad routes in the world” and Carlo Traversi claimed the fourth ascent in early 2022. You can watch a short documentary on this climb on Black Diamond’s YouTube channel here.

Dominator (8a+)

Dominator was perhaps one of Carlo’s most challenging problems in his climbing career and he gave it more attempts than any other boulder he’s climbed. He said it took him “easily over 1000 tries” even though it wasn’t the most difficult move he’d ever done, but it took the most patience. Dominator was first worked by Jerry Moffatt back in 1993, with the second ascent by Fred Nicole in 1995. The difficulty of this problem really shows since the second ascent was until Carlo’s in 2020 and since then it’s only been repeated another two times.

Meltdown (E11/8c+)

In 2018, Carlo Traversi claimed the second ascent of Meltdown, a finger crack in Yosemite that was first established by Beth Rodden in 2008. At the time, Meltdown was the hardest single pitch trad climb in America and was the hardest trad climb to be established by a woman. It had been long awaiting its first repeat and it took Carlo several years of off-and-on work but he finally did it, placing all gear on lead just as Beth had done ten years ago.

Eiger Dream: La Paciencia & MAgic Mushroom

Back in 2015, Carlo Traversi and Sasha Digiulian spent time on La Paciencia, a 23-pitch, 3,000-foot route on the north face of the Eiger in Switzerland. The route was equipped by local Stefan Siegrist with Raul Bayard and Ueli Steck in 2001-2003, but their single-push free attempt wasn’t completed until 2005.

Flash forward to 2015, when Carlo and Sasha spent several days on the wall and faced innumerable challenges with poor weather and illness. They were forced to make a tough decision, and instead turned their attention to Magic Mushroom, a 600-metre 5.13a that starts about halfway up the north face. It took them three more days of effort and they became the first American team and Sasha was the first female to climb the route.

There’s an eight video series on Vimeo documenting their time on the wall: https://vimeo.com/136615649

The Story of Two Worlds (V15)

Carlo sent his fifth V15 with The Story of Two Worlds in Cresciano, Switzerland. While the problem had a history of where the true starting point is, Carlo used a sit start “two moves lower than where Dave started.” He said it was his hardest boulder to date.

FA V13 in Colorado – Flux for Life

Located in Rocky Mountain National Park’s Endo Valley, Flux for Life is a V13 boulder problem and Carlo claimed the first ascent back in 2011. It took him five days of tough work that involved multiple split fingers, failed heel hooks, and a really sore back.

Carlo said when he visited the valley, he was “immediately taken by the beautiful roof project” and that he was “most definitely a sucker for the obvious, clean, aesthetic lines.” David Graham was the first to work on ‘the roof project’ that became Flux for Life.

The Game (V15/16)

The Game is a V15/16 boulder problem located in Boulder Canyon in Boulder, Colorado, and it’s considered one of the hardest in the world. Originally sent and repeated by Daniel Woods, Carlo Traversi claimed the 2nd ascent in March of 2011 after five days of projecting.

Daniel Woods originally gave this problem a V16 grade, but downgraded it himself after completing it again. Carlo was quoted saying: “As for the grade of this one, I honestly don’t know. 8C seems appropriate only because I haven’t climbed any others. It’s a hard boulder, that’s fun to climb on, and seems to fit my style very well. Let’s just leave it at that…”

Jade (V14) in Colorado

Jade is one of the most famous boulder problems in Colorado and one of the hardest in the USA. It has seen several repeats since Carlo claimed the seventh ascent back in 2010: you can see a video of his climb here. This boulder would later be flashed by Adam Ondra in 2015 and climbed by females Ashima Shiraishi (2021) and Alex Puccio (2014).

Sunseeker (V13)

In June of 2009, Nalle Hukkataival claimed the first ascent of Sunseeker after just a few hours of work. A day later, Traversi took the second ascent after almost getting it first the day before. Traversi said that Sunseeker “could be one of the best boulder problems in the world.” The route has since been downgraded to a V12 but is still one of the best V12’s in the world.

Cover photo from CarloTraversi.com

In 2001, he completed the entire Biographie/Realization route, becoming the first person to do so, and in the process climbed the first 9a+ (5.15a) in the world. After this accomplishment, Sharma almost quit climbing, and abandoned competitions to began a personal journey to focus on “King Lines,” a term that refers to iconic routes that motivate him. He continued to push the limits of climbing, and in 2008, he was the first climber to tick the grade 5.15b (9b) with the first ascent of Jumbo Love.

Chris Sharma now lives with his wife, Jimena Alarcón, and their two kids in Barcelona. He’s still a professional climber who especially enjoys deep water soloing and has climbed in beautiful places like Spain, Australia, and all over the United States. He teamed up with childhood friend Jason Momoa and American Ninja Warrior Meagan Martin to create the first ever climbing TV series, The Climb, which premiered on HBO Max in early 2023. He also owns several climbing gyms in both Spain and California: Sharma Climbing BCN (Barcelona), Sharma Climbing Gava, and rock climbing gym Sender One.

You can keep up with Chris by following him on Instagram, Facebook, and on the Climbing Gold podcast.

Notable Climbs

Biographie/Realization – 2001

At the young age of only nineteen, Chris completed an extension of Biographie in Ceuse, France, and named it Realization. This route was the first 5.15a in the world and a major milestone in Chris’ climbing career. He linked the first and second section of Biographie, and in the process was the first person to ever complete the entire route. You can watch the ascent on YouTube.

FA Catalan Witness the Fitness (V15) – 2016

In 2005, Chris claimed the first ascent for an 8c boulder problem called Witness the Fitness, located in the Ozark Mountains of Arkansas – here’s a really old video of him working on it back when he was rocking dreads. Fast forward to 2016, when Sharma claimed another first ascent, this time at Cova de Ocell in Spain. He called it Catalan Witness the Fitness (8B+), an homage to the Arkansas route that was also a horizontal roof problem with a similar crux.

El Bon Combat (5.15b/c) – 2015

Back in March of 2015, Chris finally claimed the first ascent of a project he’d been working on for three months, El Bon Combat. He suggested the grade 5.15b (9b), making it his hardest first ascent, as well as the second hardest route he’d completed thus far. At this point in time, Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra were the only climbers to have ticked this grade. Chris said in an interview with Planet Mountain that this climb was “more than just an athletic test, it’s spectacular, inspiring, though-provoking.”

La Dura Dura – 2011

In 2009, Chris Sharma bolted a route called La Dura Dura, but it became one of the few routes that he himself would give up on, saying “I never saw myself being able to climb it.” He invited Adam Ondra to give it a go, and the duo spent time over the next year working on it in a collaborative process.

Adam Ondra clipped the chains in February 2013, with Chris claiming the second ascent a month later in March. This climb was symbolic of the passing of the torch, the world’s strongest rock climber of the generation passing on the title to the next generation.

Also, this route held the title for the world’s hardest climb for five years until Adam Ondra climbed Silence at 9c (5.15d) in 2017.

Jumbo Love (5.15b/9a) – 2008

At Clark Mountain in California is Jumbo Love, the world’s first 5.15b, and it was first climbed by Chris Sharma in 2008. Although it was originally bolted by Randy Leavitt, Sharma re-bolted it to create the massive 250-foot pitch that would become Jumbo Love, an ode to neighbor Jumbo Pumping Hate (8b). Now it’s one of the most iconic routes in the United States and the world.

Biographie/Realization – 2001

At the young age of only nineteen, Chris completed an extension of Biographie in Ceuse, France, and named it Realization. This route was the first 5.15a in the world and a major milestone in Chris’ climbing career. He linked the first and second section of Biographie, and in the process was the first person to ever complete the entire route. You can watch the ascent on YouTube.

The Mandala (V12) – 2001

In the Buttermilks of California, The Mandala was a world class boulder problem. Now rated a V12, this route may have been as difficult as V14 before several holds breaking that have made the route significantly easier.

Necessary Evil (5.14c) – 1997

The route Necessary Evil is a direct start to Route of All Evil (5.14a), which was bolted in 1991 by Boone Speed. After Chris claimed the first ascent, it became the first 8c+/5.14c in the United States and was one of the hardest sport climbs thus far. The route is located in Arizona’s Virgin River Gorge, and it took Chris seven days before he as able to redpoint it, saying “it has some of the smallest holds I’ve ever pulled on..”

As for competition climbing, he’s won the American Bouldering Series National Championship in 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, and 2013. He’s also won the Teva Mountain Games in the bouldering category three times (2006, 2007, and 2010), as well as the ABS National Championship nine times. He’s competed in many IFSC World Cup events, winning the gold medal in the Vail World Cup in 2010. In addition, he has the most open wins at the Hueco Tanks Rock Rodeo.

In 2010, Daniel got engaged to his girlfriend of one year, Courtney Sanders. He proposed to her at Flagstaff Mountain in Boulder and they got married, but have since been divorced since 2017. He’s currently based in Boulder, Colorado, and is very active in the climbing community. For a more robust list of his ascents, see his profile on 27 Crags and Climbing History. You can also follow him on Instagram.

Notable Climbs

Return of the Sleepwalker (V17) – 2021

Back in 2021, Woods spent 52 days projecting a boulder problem in Red Rock Canyon (more specifically Black Velvet Canyon) near Las Vegas, Nevada. Jimmy Webb’s Sleepwalker (V16) had its first ascent in 2018 and Daniel Woods was its first repeat in 2019. The idea of a sit start with six extra moves emerged in 2021, and Woods returned to project it, attempting it countless times and even put himself “in complete isolation in the desert and camped” for the last 16 days. This route became Return of the Sleepwalker and was the world’s second V17.

Daniel Climbs His 3rd V16 – 2016

After 15 days of hard work mentally and physically, Daniel finally climbed Creature from the Black Lagoon (V16), a Black 90 project in Chaos Canyon. It was the boulder’s first ascent, and Woods had a lot to say about it on his Instagram post, but overall he was happy to “look back at all those failed attempts over the course of 15 days and smile.”

Papichulo (5.15a) – 2016

In Oliana, Spain, Papichulo has become one of the most iconic repeated 5.15’s. Daniel added his name to the list in March of 2016 and joined some big names like Chris Sharma (FA) and Magnus Midtbø. It took him three weeks of work and he said it was “the most resistant route” he had climbed on.

The Process – A Bishop Mega Project (V16) – 2015

Described as “the last king line in the Buttermilks” by Dan Beal, The Process (V16) is the most obvious, yet most elusive line on the Grandpa Peabody highball boulder in Bishop, California. Daniel Woods claimed the first ascent of the mega project in early 2015, successfully climbing one of the hardest blocs in the world. You can watch a video of Daniel’s nighttime ascent.

El Diablo (V15) in Peñoles, Mexico – 2014

On a trip to Peñoles, Daniel Woods spent some time night climbing a boulder in the Mexican desert. It was too hot to climb during the day, so Daniel, Jimmy Webb, and Dave Graham were forced to climb mostly at night. This route was referred to as the ‘omega king line‘ of Daniel’s dreams and nightmares, and he was able to claim the first ascent in 2014.

First Ascent of The Purge (V14) – 2013

Daniel established another V14 in Colorado’s Elkland Boulders in May of 2015, and he called it The Purge. Dave Graham suggested Daniel try it out after Dave couldn’t send it before he left for Europe, and Daniel went to visit the problem. He sent it during a night session to take advantage of cooler temperatures, and said it was “the full package line!”

The Bubble Wrap Project – 2013

At Boulder, Colorado’s CATS climbing gym, Daniel climbed The Bubble Wrap project, which was an indoor route that was set five years prior and hadn’t been completed since. It has been projected in the past by big names like Carlo Traversi, but Daniel was the first to complete it.

Witness The Fitness (V15) – 2013

Located in the Ozark Mountains of Arkansas, Witness the Fitness was first climbed by Chris Sharma back in 2005 (and repeated in 2006 by Fred Nicole). The boulder is on private property, but Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb, and Paul Robinson got permission from the landowner, and Daniel took the third ascent. It required three days of work, and the trio found that multiple handhold breaks led to them having to figure out completely new beta for the crux.

5.14d and V15 For Woods: White Noise & Moonshine – 2012

Over the course of only a few days, Daniel sent several routes, including a 5.14d and V15. On a weekend trip to Wyoming, he claimed the second ascent of Moonshine (5.14d), which was a “short bouldery power endurance line” (quote by Daniel’s ex-wife, Courtney) by BJ Tilden. After driving back home to Colorado, he established a V15 boulder problem in Rocky Mountain National Park called White Noise.

Mission Impossible (9a/5.14d) – 2012.

In Clear Creek Canyon near Golden, Colorado, Mission Impossible (5.14d) became quite possible with Daniel’s first ascent in mid-2012. It took him 7 days of projecting but he said it was “such a sick line with incredible movement.” The route was bolted by Jay Samuelson in 2011 and Woods proposed at least 9a/5.14d, making it his hardest ascent to date.

First Ascent of a V15 in Magic Wood – 2011

La Force Tranqille is a V15 problem in Magic Wood, Switzerland. Woods completed the first ascent back in 2011, and this was his third V15 first ascent and his fifth V15 in Magic Wood.

Practice of the Wild (V15) in Switzerland – 2011

In 2004, Chris Sharma sent a problem in Magic Wood, Switzerland. It was “Chris Sharma’s hardest problem,” and Daniel Woods claimed the third ascent for the V15 (behind Ty Landman in 2008). At the time, Practice of the Wild was one of the few V15’s in the world – Daniel said it took him “3 days of mental/physical warring” and that it was a “majestic testpiece.”

Warpath – V14 in 2011

After two days of effort, Daniel came away with the second ascent of Warpath, a V14 boulder in southern Idaho. First climbed by James Litz in 2007, it wasn’t repeated until Daniel Woods, James Webb, and Dave Graham visited the area to give it a shot. According to Daniel, the route is “pure resistance climbing.”

Invisible Man Project in Hueco Tanks – 2011

In February of 2011, Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb were in Hueco Tanks, Texas, for some winter climbing. They brushed up on some holds to the left of Terremer (8c), Terre de Siene (8b), and Diaphanous Sea (8a+) to create the “Invisible Man Project.”

Third Ascent of Ill Trill (V14/15) – 2011

Located in Magic Wood, Switzerland, Ill Trill was first climbed by Paul Robinson, who suggested the V15 (8c) rating. Almost a year later, Daniel claimed the third ascent but suggested a downgrade to a hard V14 (8b+). He had been working on it for a few days over the course of the past couple years, and the conditions were perfect for a send. Daniel said: “One of the best movements climbs I have done in a while.”

Fantasia (V14) at the Bambi Boulder 2011

Fantasia is to the right of Bambi in Matthews-Winters Park: it’s a sit start with about 25 moves that comes out on a roof and finishes on the last section of Bambi. Daniel claimed the first ascent of the V14, which has since been downgraded to V13. You can watch the video of his attempt on Fantasia.

Jaws II (5.14a) in 2010

Originally a 5.14b worked by Dave Graham, Jaws became Jaws II after several holds broke, making the line significantly more difficult. Vasya Vorotnikov claimed the new first ascent, and Daniel claimed second after spending a few days on it over the course of a couple years. Although it was estimated to be 5.14d, 5.15a has been sticking thus far after a few ascents, making it one of the hardest routes east of the Rockies.

Woods FA’s New V15 Warrior Up – 2010

After three days of projecting, Woods claimed the first ascent of Warrior Up (V15/8c), located in Lincoln Lake, Mt. Evans, in Colorado’s Wolverine Land. This route is a roof project that Daniel said was a “sick power line revolving around 3 moves.”

Daniel Woods, Alex Puccio, and Chris Webb Parsons in Colorado – 2010

Daniel, Alex Puccio, and Chris Webb Parsons spent some time bouldering in the Lincoln Lake area of Mt. Evans in Colorado. You can watch the video of them bouldering and it shows Woods working on a roof project that would become Dying to Live (V14) , Chris Webb Parsons flashing Unshackled Sit (V11) and sending Exfoliator (V12), and Alex Puccio sending Unshackled Sit (V11).

The Game (V16) – 2010

The Game is an infamous project in Boulder Canyon that Daniel first tried in 2008. He came back a couple times over the years, getting stronger each time. He finally sent it on February 10th in 2010, claiming the first ascent of the V16. Daniel said “I called this problem The Game, because for me the climb was a game I had to play, I had to click into game mode, and really train myself for these moves. I had to grow mentally strong and also physically strong to be able to put it together.” It has since been downgraded to a V15 by Daniel and a couple others like Carlo Traversi. You can watch the teaser for his climb.

Jade (V14/15) in 2007

In Rocky Mountain National Park’s Chaos Canyon, Woods made the first ascent of Jade, which was previously Dave Graham’s The Green 45 Project. The original suggested grade was V15, put it has since been downgraded to V14. Either way, it’s become of the most popular boulders in the west and has been climbed by big names like Alex Puccio, Adam Ondra, Ashima Shiraishi, and more.

Tito Claudio Traversa was a young Italian climber who tragically fell to his death while sport climbing in France. Even though he was only twelve years old, he had accomplished many great feats and had a bright future in rock climbing. For example, Traversa climbed his first 5.13b at only eight years old (Faith), and sent his first 5.14a at age 10. A few days prior to his death he ticked his fourth 5.14a with Pablo Diretta at Gravere.

He was already proving to be a rock climbing prodigy, but the world will never know what he could have progressed to. He passed away on July 5th, 2013, after a climbing accident in France. While we will never know what his future held, we do know that he was a young boy who was filled with passion and talent, and that he was strong, generous, and kind.

Death

Seriously Injured in Climbing Fall

While climbing in Orpierre, France, Tito Traversa fell to the ground and was quickly rushed to a local hospital, where he was fighting for his life. Initially, there wasn’t much information available publicly besides that Tito was in serious condition at Grenoble hospital. News stories here and there hinted at some type of equipment failure, but no one knew what really happened.

Some details slowly came to light, including that the twelve year old climbing prodigy had fallen from a height of about 15 meters because of incorrect positioning of the rubber stops on a carabiner. At the time, this video was going around to illustrate what could have possibly happened with the equipment.

After a three day fight for his life, Tito succumbed to his injuries and passed away on July 5, 2013. His parents wrote, “Our little big Tito is now an Angel and he gave his organs to let other kids live. Forever in his mum’s and dad’s heart.”

Report Reveals Cause of Accident

A report from Grimper Magazine released the first factual information about Tito’s cause of death, noting that the investigation was still ongoing. Grimper did release a photo (courtesy of the French police – see below) to show the orientation of the quickdraw and string to illustrate the error, hoping that the information could help prevent future accidents. You can see the photos below, noting that the plastic thong is placed wrong in one photo and correct in the other.

Tito was handed the incorrectly assembled quickdraws by the mother of another climber and he used them on his route. When he leaned back to be lowered after his successful 5.10 warmup, all the quickdraws broke besides the lower few, which were too low to protect him from the ground.

In August of 2013, Italian authorities launched an investigation into the accident.

Manslaughter Charges Filed After Tito’s Accident

At this point, more details had come to light, including information that Tito fell from approximately fifty feet (15m) and that eight of his ten quickdraws were improperly attached and assembled. Raffaele Guariniello, a public prosecutor, opened a case against five people after a complaint by Tito’s father.

The five parties that were charged were the owner of the company that produced the rubber keeper, the owner of the climbing gear shop who sold the rubber keepers, the manager of the climbing club that organized the trip, and the two instructors who were on the climbing site. A sixth person, a relative of a girl who lent the equipment to Tito, was still under investigation.

Three Will Face Trial For Death of Tito Traversa

More than two years later in December of 2015, it was reported that three people would go to trail and face charges of manslaughter. The three people are as follows:

• Luca Giammarco – legal representative of the company, Bside, which organized the climbing trip.
• Nicola Galicia was one of the climbing instructors.
• Carlo Paglioli – legal representative of Aludesign, the company that designed the rubber keeper. They allegedly didn’t include adequate instructions in the packaging for the quick draws.

Sentencing

In May of 2018, the unofficial climbing instructor Nicola Galizia, 36, was convicted of manslaughter in the death of Tito. He was sentenced to two years in prison and was forced to pay judicial expenses amounting over 21,000 Euros. Because it was his first offense, he would not have to serve his prison sentence.

The owner of the climbing school and the company who produced the small part of the equipment were absolved.

In the 2020 Olympics in Tokyo, Adam was able to compete but finished in sixth place. This was the first time sport climbing made an Olympic debut, and he’s currently training for a second appearance in 2024 in Paris. This time, the Games will be separated into two categories, speed climbing and bouldering or lead climbing. We’ll see if 2024 holds plans for an Olympic medal (maybe even a gold medal?) for Ondra.

In 2023, he released an awesome video revealing the secrets behind the scream that he’s so well known for. The video is well worth the watch.

Outside of his climbing career, Ondra married long time girlfriend Iva Ondra on September 1st, 2021. In May of 2022, they welcomed their first child, Hugo.

Ondra still continues to climb and is working on some of the world’s toughest climbs, including Excalibur and Project BIG. He’s won 18 gold medals, in his 26 years of climbing and has completed 201 routes that are grade 9a and harder.

For recent information about what he’s up to, you can follow along with him on social media:

• YouTube
• Instagram
• Facebook
• AdamOndra.com & AO Production

Notable Climbs

Adam Ondra has an insane amount of notable accomplishments, but we’ve selected the top ones and put them in order from most recent to further past. Spoiler alert: he’s is way better at real climbing than everyone else so there’s a lot.

Super Crackinette (9a+/5.15a) – 2018

In France in 2018, Ondra flashed Super Crackinette (9a+/5.15a), completing the second ascent of the route and the first (and only) flash ascent of a 9a+. Adam said on his website: the “route is a dream, the ascent was a dream.” There’s a great video of that day by Reel Rock.

Silence (9c 5.15d) – 2017

Until recently, Adam Ondra was the first person and only climber to have sent 9c, the hardest route in the world. It’s called Silence in Flatanger, Norway, and it took him more than five years to climb it from the time he bolted it. To complete the Crux 1, he took five trips to Norway in 2016 and 2017, had eight weeks of training with three sessions per day, and a total of about 70 hours of trying the crux.

If you have twenty minutes to spare, the video is definitely worth the watch.

The Dawn Wall on El Capitan – 2016

Often called the hardest and longest free climb in the world, the Dawn Wall is located in Yosemite National Park in California. Twenty-three year-old Ondra claimed the 2nd free ascent in November of 2016, after eight days of camping and spending time on the wall. There’s a detailed full write up on Adam’s experience here at Climbing.com. The route was redpointed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson a year earlier, but their ascent took 19 days.

First Ascent of 120 Degrees (9a) in Flatanger – 2016

Adam has spent a lot of time in Flatanger Cave in Norway (as you’ll see in previous climbs on this list – there’s quite a few here) and has several first ascents. In 2016, he claimed FA on 120 Degrees and onsighted two 8b+’s and one 8a+ (Crack the Back, Froskekongen, and Open Shoulders).

First Ascent of 5.15a/b in Slovenia and Croatia’s First 5.14d – 2016

On a short trip to Slovenia and Croatia, Adam established the hardest route in each country over the course of only four days. Vicious Circle (5.15a/b) is located in Misja Pec in Slovenia and Adam had says it’s “super powerful and resistant climbing.” The next day, at Medveja, Croatia, he onsighted The Core (5.14d) but suggested it was at most a 5.14b/c, and also onsighted Outdoorfingerspiele (5.14b). Continuing on his trip, Adam made the first ascent of More (5.14d) on this third attempt and it became the country’s first true 5.14d.

2nd Ascent of Sharma’s Stoking the Fire (5.15b) – 2016

At the time, Stoking the Fire was one of two unrepeated Chris Sharma routes in Santa Linya cave in Spain, and Adam claimed the 2nd ascent back in 2016. It took over a year, but after a couple visits he was able to clip the chains. After this climb, it seemed as if he had done almost every 5.15b and 5.15c available, so the climbing community was anxious to see what would come next for the leading climber in the world.

5.15a FA for Ondra: Predator – 2015

After several 5.15a first ascents for Adam, Predator (5.15a) seemed like no big deal. He posted on 8a.nu that he spent one day on it one month previous to this attempt, then sent it in 30 minutes on his second go. The new route is in his home country of the Czech Republic at the crag Srbsko.

New 5.15b in France C.R.S. – 2015

After a few months of flying under the radar post-Three Degrees, Adam’s name popped up again in climbing news as he claimed the first ascent of a new 5.15b route in South France called C.R.S. It was bolted by Seb Bouin and Adam called it the “ultimate power endurance testpiece, combining desperately physical overhang with extremely thin holds on the very top.”

2nd Ascent of Three Degrees of Separation (5.15a) – 2015

Another Chris Sharma route, Three Degrees of Separation was originally thought to be a 5.14d, but after Adam claimed the 2nd ascent he suggested it was a 5.15a because of “three massive dynos into perfect jugs” (dynos are a type of jump) that were made more difficult by getting pumped out on the previous 20 meters. This route was previously on Adam’s list of “The Routes I Cannot Climb” in an old Planet Mountain interview but he was able to send it, taking advantage of his height in those difficult dynos.

Flashes Jade (V14) in Colorado – 2015

A few days after White Noise, he flashed Jade (V14) in Rocky Mountain National Park. He had just placed third in the Vail World Cup then completed the “hardest flash in the world” (quote by Dave Graham). He also flashed Don’t Get Too Greedy (V13) while he was there, both of which he had hiked to before heading to the airport.

White Noise (V14/15) in Colorado – 2015

While in the Vail, Colorado, area for the World Cup bouldering competition, Adam visited Rocky Mountain National Park, where he sent White Noise (V14/15) in only a handful of tries and flashed Bear Toss (v13). These quick ascents were quite impressive, especially right before the competition.

Necessary Evil (5.15c) – /2015

As part of a rare American trip from Ondra, he spent some time in Squamish (British Columbia) and Las Vegas, Nevada. In Squamish, he made a valiant flash attempt of Dreamcatcher (5.14d) but a wet finger lock prevented his send. He then went south to Las Vegas where he was able to pull off a quick send of Necessary Evil after a failed onsight attempt (5.15c).

Another 9a Onsight – TCT in 2014

In Gravere, Italy, Adam onsighted his 3rd 9a/5.14d with TCT. It stands for Tito Claudio Traversa and stands as a tribute to the young climber who was killed in 2013 in a tragic accident. The route was established only a month prior by Stefano Ghisolfi.

First Round, First Minute…First Repeat (5.15b) – 2014

In early 2014, Adam Ondra claimed the 2nd ascent of First Round, First Minute (5.15b), a short, power route first climbed by Chris Sharma in 2011. Ondra had visited a couple of times over the years, but consistently ran out of time before completion and made it his 2014 goal. Including this route, Ondra had climbed thirty 5.15 routes, nine of which are 5.15b and three 5.15c.

Sends Biographie (5.15a) and Onsights Another 5.14c – 2014

In between the World Cup competitions in 2014 (where he won in bold lead climbing and bouldering), Adam took a few days to finally finish off and ascend Biographie (5.15a) in France. This was two years after his flash attempt but it ended up taking him about ten tries since then. This was the 13th ascent the route by Chris Sharma all the way back in 2001. During this time, Adam also onsighted Superplafond (5.14c), which was his eighteenth 5.14c or harder onsight.

Another 5.15b/c in Norway – 2013

In 2013, Adam had another successful trip to Flatanger Cave in Norway. He claimed the first ascent of Move (5.15b/c), which was his fourth route creation in the cave behind Thor’s Hammer (5.15a), Iron Curtain (5.15b), and Change (5.15c). Incredibly, this was Ondra’s 26th 5.15 ascent, sixteen of which were first ascents.

Another 5.14d First Ascent for Ondra – 2013

Back in Norway’s Flatanger Cave after his ascent of The Change in 2012, Adam Ondra bolted and sent four new routes – 5.13b, 5.14a, 5.14c, and his new route Illusionist (5.14d). This was quite a productive time period, but his climbing partner Petr Pavlíček said it was “just a little warm up” before the “really super hard projects.

Sends La Dura Dura (5.15c) – 2013

At the time, La Dura Dura (5.15c) was considered the world’s hardest sport route, and it took Adam five trips and nine weeks of effort. Located in Oliana, Spain, the route received a proposed grade of 9b+ (5.15c) and he said that it felt harder than his Change route in Norway.

Two 5.14 Onsights – Pure Imagination and Golden Ticket – 2012

While he was in Red River Gorge for Southern Smoke Direct (5.14d), Adam also successfully onsighted Pure Imagination and Golden Ticket (5.14d). Though both were estimated to be 5.14d, Adam suggested low end 5.14c for Pure Imagination and high end 5.14c for Golden Ticket.

Flashed 5.14d/15a – Southern Smoke Direct in 2012

Adam was the first climber to flash a 5.14d and he chose Southern Smoke Direct in Red River Gorge. This was only the second ascent of this boulder problem that was established by Adam Taylor in 2011. While on this trip to the Red, Adam Ondra also was able to onsight Omaha Beach, Transworld Depravity (both 5.14a) and many other routes in Madness Cave.

Sends 5.15c in Norway The Change – 2012

Ten weeks after Adam Ondra sent the first half of The Change, he tried again and made it through the first 5.15c. Located in Norway’s Flatanger Cave, the route almost didn’t allow Adam to finish, and he kept slipping on some wet crimps near the finish. They almost called it and said they would come again for another visit, but the rocks dried out and Adam was able to send what became the hardest route in the world at the time.

More From Norway: Nordic Flower (5.14d) and Others – 2012

One day after The Eye of Odin (5.14c), Ondra had some great accomplishments in Norway. He pulled off an onsight of Nordic Flower (5.14d) and had brought along 30 quickdraws for the 55 meter route. He said “I was so heavy at the beginning that it felt like a crux.” On this trip, he had also put up Thor’s Hammer (5.15a), as well as Norway’s hardest boulder problem Blood Redemption (V14/15)

The Eye of Odin (5.14c) – Adam Does His Thing in Norway – 2012

Just a few days prior, Eye of Odin (5.14c) had its first ascent reported. It took three of the best sport climbers working together to get first ascent (first sent by Ethan Pringle then Dani Andrada). Pringle was quoted saying “the wizard” (Adam Ondra) “will onsight it,” which came true a few days later when Adam onsighted it. This was Adam’s 10th 5.14c onsight, not including the ones that he downgraded to 5.14b.

Flash Attempt of Biographie (5.15a) – 2012

In one of the most watched flash attempts, Adam tried his hand at Biographie (5.15a) in France. There was lots of people at the crag, as well as a slew of others watching through Facebook and Twitter feeds. Unfortunately, Adam would fail this flash, but would return for completion in summer of 2014 while he was in between competitions.

To Tu Ještě Nebylo 5.14d First Ascent – 2012

Adam Ondra’s first ascent of To Tu Ještě Nebylo (5.14d) in the Elbsandstein wasn’t necessarily anything new, but he made news for bolting it on lead instead of rappelling down like normal. This area is one of the oldest free climbing arenas in the world and has a strict code of ethics that Adam respectfully followed. He took several lead falls with a power drill in hand, but Adam stepped up to the challenge for sure.

2nd Ascent of Gioia (V16) – 2011

Gioia means “joy” and the boulder problem is located in Varazze, Italy. First established by Christian Core in 2008, Adam was the first climber to successfully repeat it, even after several attempts by some of the strongest climbers. In 2011, this was potentially the hardest problem in the world.

Another 5.14c Onsight – L’Avaro in 2011

After failing to quality for finals at the 2011 IFSC Lead World Cup but before heading to the World Championships in Arco, Italy, Adam stopped by for some climbing. He was able to onsight his seventh 5.14c, L’Avaro, at the Italian crag Tetto di Sarre.

Second Ascent of Overshadow (5.15a) – 2011

After a total of seven days of effort, Adam Ondra completed the second ascent of Steve Mclure’s Overshadow (5.15a). Located at Malham Cove, UK, the route didn’t come easy for Adam and he agreed with the original suggestion of 5.15a. During this visit, Ondra also claimed the 2nd ascent of Rainshadow (9a – first repeat since 2003), climbed the first ever 8c onsight in the UK on Bat Route (7b to 8a+ headwall), and almost got the first repeat of Total Eclipse (8c+/9a).

References

• Wikipedia
• Planet Mountain
• AdamOndra.com
• Climbing.com

Cover photo from AdamOndra.com, quote by Ondra added afterwards.