Bouldering grades can be confusing, especially when comparing climbs from different parts of the world. The Font scale, used mainly in France and Europe, and the V scale, common in the United States, measure the same thing—difficulty—but in different ways.
A Font 7a usually matches a V6, giving climbers a clear way to understand how hard a problem feels, no matter where they climb.
Knowing how these two systems connect helps climbers plan trips, track progress, and set goals with more confidence. Each scale has its own history and approach, but both serve the same purpose: to describe how challenging a boulder problem is. Understanding the conversion between them removes confusion and lets climbers focus on improving their skills.
Key Takeaways
- The Font and V scales both measure bouldering difficulty in different regions.
- Converting between the two helps climbers compare grades worldwide.
- A Font 7a roughly equals a V6, offering a simple reference point.
Understanding the Font Scale and V Scale in Bouldering
Bouldering uses two main grading systems to describe problem difficulty: the Fontainebleau (Font) scale and the V scale. Both aim to measure how hard a climb feels, but they were developed in different regions and reflect different grading traditions and styles of climbing.
Origins and Development of Bouldering Grades
The Fontainebleau system began in the early 20th century in the Fontainebleau forest near Paris, France. Climbers there needed a way to describe the difficulty of short, technical sandstone problems. The system evolved naturally as more climbs were established, becoming the standard for European bouldering.
The V scale, or Vermin scale, originated in the United States in the late 1980s. American climber John “Vermin” Sherman introduced it while documenting problems in Hueco Tanks, Texas. It offered a simple, open-ended numerical system starting at V0 for easier climbs and increasing with difficulty.
Both systems grew from local climbing cultures. The Font scale expanded across Europe, while the V scale spread through North America and later to indoor gyms worldwide. Today, both are used internationally, though regional preferences still influence which scale climbers use most often.
Key Differences Between Font Scale and V Scale
The Font scale uses a combination of numbers and letters, such as 5+, 6A, 7B+, 8C, to indicate increasing difficulty. The V scale uses whole numbers starting from V0, sometimes including modifiers like V0– or V0+ for subtle differences.
| Font Grade | Approx. V Grade |
|---|---|
| 5+ | V1 |
| 6A | V2 |
| 6C | V4 |
| 7A | V6 |
| 8A | V11 |
The Font system tends to be more detailed at higher levels, reflecting subtle changes in difficulty. The V scale is simpler, making it easier to understand for beginners. However, conversions between the two are approximate, as grading can vary by location, rock type, and climbing style.
Role of the Fontainebleau System and Vermin Scale
The Fontainebleau system remains central to outdoor climbing in Europe. It emphasizes precise movement, technique, and problem-solving on natural rock. Grades in this system often reflect the technical and mental demands of a climb as much as physical strength.
The Vermin scale focuses more on overall difficulty and physical effort. It suits the steeper, more powerful style common in American bouldering areas and modern indoor gyms. Because of its simplicity, many climbing gyms worldwide use the V scale for consistency.
Both systems influence how climbers train and compare progress. Understanding their context helps climbers interpret grades more accurately and appreciate the history behind each bouldering problem.
Font Scale to V Scale Conversion Explained
The Font (Fontainebleau) and V scales measure bouldering difficulty using different systems. Climbers often compare these scales to understand how problems translate between regions, gyms, and guidebooks. Both scales aim to reflect physical and technical challenge, but conversions are approximate rather than exact.
Comprehensive Grade Conversion Table
The Font scale originated in Fontainebleau, France, while the V scale began in the United States. The V scale starts at V0 for easy problems, while the Font scale begins around 3 or 4.
Below is a general comparison used by climbers and route setters:
| Font Grade | Approx. V Grade |
|---|---|
| 5+ | V1 |
| 6a | V2 |
| 6b | V3–V4 |
| 6c | V5 |
| 7a | V6 |
| 7b | V8 |
| 7c | V9 |
| 8a | V11 |
| 8b | V13 |
| 8c | V15 |
These values serve as guidelines, not fixed conversions. Differences in rock type, style, and local grading traditions can shift a problem’s perceived grade by one or more levels.
Popular Grade Equivalents: 6b, 6c+, 7a, 7b, 7c, 8a, 8b, 8c
Common mid- to high-level grades often raise questions among climbers switching between scales.
A Font 6b usually aligns with V3, while 6b+ and 6c often feel like V4–V5. 6c+ may sit near V5–V6, depending on problem style.
At the advanced level, 7a equals roughly V6, 7b about V8, and 7c close to V9. Elite problems like 8a, 8b, and 8c correspond to V11, V13, and V15.
These conversions help climbers estimate difficulty when traveling or training but should be viewed as flexible ranges rather than exact matches.
Challenges and Subjectivity in Grade Conversion
Grading is not a science. Conditions, hold types, and movement style all affect how a problem feels. A 7a to V6 conversion might hold true indoors, but vary outside on granite or sandstone.
Route setters in climbing gyms often adjust grades to fit local standards or the gym’s progression system. Outdoor bouldering areas, such as those in Fontainebleau or Bishop, may grade more strictly or generously.
Personal strengths—like finger power, technique, or endurance—also influence perception. Because of this, climbers often use grade conversions as a reference, not a rule.
Using Grade Conversions in Climbing Gyms and Outdoor Bouldering
In climbing gyms, grade conversions help route setters design consistent progressions across walls. A problem labeled V5 indoors might feel like a Font 6c, giving climbers a sense of what to expect outdoors.
Gyms that use color-coded circuits sometimes include both scales on signage to help international visitors. This is especially useful where climbers train for outdoor trips.
When moving from the gym to the rock, understanding conversions helps manage expectations. A climber comfortable on V6 indoors may find Font 7a outside more demanding due to natural features, texture, and conditions.
Accurate conversion awareness supports realistic goal-setting and smoother transitions between climbing environments.
