Alex Megos: Youth Climber on Fire in the US

posted by dpm on 11/26/2012


Occasionally I'll get emails alerting me to some under-the-radar crusher that's destroying everything in his path. I heard a while back that "some kid sent The Fly (5.14d)" but without even a name to go with it, it's hardly news. Then a week ago I got a message from Eric Hörst at the Red River Gorge saying that a young fellow I'd not heard of was sending all the hardest routes. It wasn't until posted up this story that I put the two together as the same guy.  

Alex Megos. Photo: DMMclimbing

19-year-old Alex Megos is a German climber that lives in the Frankenjura region, an area that boasts one of the largest collections of hard climbs in the world. He's quickly worked through some of the hardest routes there like Wallstreet (5.14b), Pain makes me feel stronger every day (5.14c), Shangri-La (5.14c), a flash of Raubritter (5.14b) and much more. Outside of his home crag he's onsighted 5.14a's in Arco, Italy and Kalymnos, Greece as well as snagging first ascents of two 5.14b routes in Kalymnos. Those that saw him climb at the Kalymnos Climbing Festival say he stole the show, a show stacked with the world's best climbers. He's climbed 5.14d with San Ku Kai at Entraygues, France, sent V12 in Rocklands, and climbed 5.13d trad. The obvious next step? Destroy the US.

Alex on The Fly (5.14d). Photo: Kletterszene

Megos and his friend Peter Würth flew over just in time to get pummeled by Hurricane Sandy in the northeast. Their first stop was Rumney, New Hampshire where Alex was able to tick off The Fly (5.14d). From there they joined the masses at the Red where Megos was able to compile a 'standard European ticklist,' essentially climbing most of the hardest routes in the area including ANOTHER flash of Pure Imagination (5.14c). This is the third flash of the route after Adam Ondra and Daniel Woods. Kletterszene has posted Megos' comprehensive ticklist on their site:

  •  5 5.13d's Onsight
  • 3 5.14a onsight ("Omaha Beach", "Transworld Depravity" and "100 Ounces of Gold")
  • "The Shocker" 5.14b (3.Go)
  • "The Tube" 5.14b (3 Go), (3rd ascent)
  • "Death Star" 5.14b (3.Go), (3rd ascent)
  • "Fifty Words for Pump" 5.14c
  • "Southern Smoke" 5.14c (3.Go)
  • "24 Carats" 5.14c (2.Go)
  • "The Golden Ticket" 5.14c (2.Go)
  • "Lucifer" 5.14c (2.Go)
  • "Pure Imagination" 5.14c (Flash)

No word on what their next stop will be but keep your eyes peeled for this up and coming rockstar at your local crag. They've got four months in the states so we'll surely see some more hard climbs go down. Shoot me a message and let me know if you see "some kid" crushing America's hardest routes and boulders. 

Source: DMM,, Kletterszene

On the flash of Pure Imagination (5.14c). Photo: Kletterszene