posted by dpm on 05/04/2014
German Alex Megos has sent the world’s first 9a/5.14d Action Directe in Frankenjura, Germany. Frankenjura.com reports that Megos needed just two hours to redpoint the route. His only knowledge of the line was from watching videos.
Action Directe is one of the most sought after 9a’s in the world for elite climbers. First climbed by the legendary Wolfgang Gullich in 1991, the route still stands as the benchmark for the grade. For over twenty years, elite climbers have traveled to Germany to test themselves on the historic route.
Megos’ ascent is the fastest to date and it’s hardly surprising. Just more than a year ago, Alex claimed the world’s first 9a onsight with Estado Critico in Siurana, Spain. He’s also flashed Pure Imagination (5.14c) at the Red River Gorge and established his own cutting edge climbs like Wheelchair (5.15a boulder problem) in Australia’s Hollow Mountain Cave and R.E.D (5.14d) in Australia’s Blue Mountains, which is the hardest route in the country.
Megos has climbed quite extensively in the Frankenjura already compiling an extensive tick list that includes fast ascents of 8c+/5.14c’s, 8c/5.14b flashes, and the first ascent of Classified (5.15a).
Click the image to watch the movie "Obsession" which documents Rich Simpson's quest to climb his dream route, Action Directe. Simpson's ascent was later questioned and discredited by many, but the video still offers some great insight into the allure of the route.