posted by dpm on 03/01/2013
19-year-old German climber Alex Megos has wrapped up his four month US tour with a final stop in Hueco Tanks, Texas. DMM climbing reports on his impressive ticklist with one day in particular standing out. In a single day, Megos sent Power of Landjager (V11), Flower Power (V10/11), The Full Monty (V12), Crown of Aragorn (V13) and Crown Royale (V13). Other hard problems during his short stay included Slashface, Terre de Sienne, Sôl Adûnâmentum and Nagual (all V13).
Alex Megos sending Slashface (V13). Photo: Adam Taylor/Dmm
Possibly the most impressive part of Megos' US trip was that he achieved his goal of climbing more 8a's than number of days he spent in the States. He was here for a total of 121 days and climbed a total of 135 8a graded routes and boulder problems. That translates to 5.13b for routes and V11 for boulder problems. It goes without saying that this is impressive but especially considering the number of days that were spent resting, traveling, or trad climbing.
Megos, and his partner Peter Würth, crushed just about every area they went to while here. The trip started out in Rumney, New Hampshire where Alex was able to send the Fly (5.14d) and China Beach (5.14b) second try. They then traveled to the Red River Gorge, Kentucky where Alex flashed Pure Imagination (5.14c) and sent nearly every other hard route. Read more about the first half of their trip, including Alex's RRG ticklist, here.
From there, they headed through Colorado and Megos flashed Gutless Wonder (5.14b) at Puoux before hitting Indian Creek for something completely different. The duo found the unique style of crack climbing especially challenging stating “5.10 was hard, 5.11 really hard and 5.12 mostly impossible.” After some days of getting schooled at the Creek --relatively speaking, they were still climbing 5.12's there like Way Rambo (5.12a) and Bad Cat (5.12b)-- they headed to Red Rock, Nevada for more hard bouldering. Alex sent Wet Dream (V12) and other hard problems to add to his ticklist of 8a(+)'s.
Alex's standout ascent in Bishop, California was his flash of Blood Meridian (V13) though he thought the line to be more V12. He also sent the highball Evilution Direct (V11) and many more classics like The Mandala (V11).
For hard sport climbing and bouldering, this is a contender for the most impressive trip that's taken place on American soil. Alex climbed 5.14d, he flashed 5.14c and V13, and if you factor in rest/travel days, he must have averaged more than two 8a's for every day on the rock. Keep your eye on this guy; Megos is poised to be one of the world's best climbers, if he isn't already.