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	<title>News &#8211; DPM Climbing</title>
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	<title>News &#8211; DPM Climbing</title>
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		<title>Climbing Magazines in Print: Publications and Subscriptions</title>
		<link>https://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-magazines-in-print/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jake]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 21 Jan 2026 06:04:27 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[News]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.dpmclimbing.com/?p=1639</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[The State of Climbing Publications The world of climbing media has changed dramatically in recent years. Print climbing magazines have...]]></description>
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<h2 class="wp-block-heading">The State of Climbing Publications</h2>



<p>The world of climbing media has changed dramatically in recent years. Print climbing magazines have become increasingly rare as the sport itself has grown more popular. This creates an interesting contradiction in the climbing industry.</p>



<p>About a decade ago, climbers could choose from at least a dozen different English-language periodicals. That number has shrunk significantly. Today, only a handful of print climbing magazines remain available to readers interested in rock climbing, <a href="https://www.dpmclimbing.com/bouldering-training/">bouldering</a>, <a href="https://www.dpmclimbing.com/jonathan-siegrist-an-accomplished-sport-climber/">sport climbing</a>, trad climbing, alpine climbing, and ice climbing.</p>



<p><strong>What Happened to Print Climbing Magazines</strong></p>



<p>Several well-known publications have disappeared from newsstands and mailboxes. Major changes occurred in 2022 when large media companies purchased multiple climbing magazines. These companies often combined publications or shut them down entirely. The owners did not want their magazines competing against each other. They chose to focus on digital content instead of maintaining separate print editions.</p>



<p>Some magazines transitioned to online-only formats. Others stopped publishing altogether. A few special annual publications also vanished from the market.</p>



<p><strong>Why Print Still Matters</strong></p>



<p>Physical magazines offer distinct advantages over digital climbing media. Paper publications provide a break from screens that dominate daily life. Many people use devices constantly for work tasks, messages, calendars, and personal communications. A printed climbing magazine does not generate notifications or distractions.</p>



<p>Reading a climbing zine in print allows for better focus on the content. Scrolling through websites can waste time and make it harder to find relevant climbing news. Print magazines deliver curated content directly to readers without digital interruptions.</p>



<p><strong>Current Print Climbing Magazines</strong></p>



<p>Five main English-language publications continue to print physical copies:</p>



<figure class="wp-block-table"><table class="has-fixed-layout"><thead><tr><th><strong>Magazine</strong></th><th><strong>Frequency</strong></th><th><strong>Focus</strong></th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td>Alpinist</td><td>Quarterly</td><td>Indoor climbing, outdoor climbing, and techniques</td></tr><tr><td>The Climbing Zine</td><td>Varies</td><td>Culture, authenticity, diverse climbing topics</td></tr><tr><td>Gripped</td><td>Six times yearly</td><td>All types of climbing, Canadian perspective</td></tr><tr><td>Climber</td><td>Six times yearly</td><td>Indoor climbing, outdoor climbing, techniques</td></tr><tr><td>Summit Journal</td><td>Twice yearly</td><td>General climbing content</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>



<p><strong>Alpinist</strong> has won multiple awards for its long-form writing. The publication focuses specifically on alpine climbing and ice climbing. It does not cover sport climbing competitions or <a href="https://www.dpmclimbing.com/indoor-climbing-gyms-a-beginners-guide/">indoor climbing</a> events. The magazine comes out four times each year.</p>



<p><strong>The Climbing Zine</strong> presents itself as a more authentic voice in climbing media. It functions as a messenger-style publication. The <a href="https://climbingzine.com/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">climbing zine</a> format appeals to readers seeking culturally relevant content.</p>



<p><strong>Gripped</strong> operates from Canada and publishes six issues annually. The magazine covers rock climbing, bouldering, sport climbing, and trad climbing. It features strong reporting and personal stories from climbers. The publication connects readers to the climbing community.</p>



<p><strong>Climber</strong> comes from the UK and also prints six times per year. It provides climbing news, technique articles, and coverage of both indoor climbing and outdoor climbing. The magazine serves climbers worldwide despite its British base.</p>



<p><strong>Summit Journal</strong> represents a revival of an older publication name. It returned to print under new leadership. The magazine publishes two issues each year, covering various climbing topics.</p>



<p><strong>The Survivor Publications</strong></p>



<p>These five climbing magazines share something in common. None of them has been sold to large media corporations that consolidate markets. They remain independent or under ownership that values print publication. These smaller publishers continue to serve climbers who prefer physical magazines.</p>



<p>The surviving publications fill gaps left by magazines that disappeared. They provide climbing news, feature stories, technique advice, and cultural commentary. Each climbing magazine brings its own perspective to covering the sport.</p>



<p><strong>Supporting Print Climbing Media</strong></p>



<p>Readers who value print publications need to actively support them. Subscriptions provide the financial foundation these climbing magazines need to continue printing. The magazines arrive by mail rather than through digital delivery.</p>



<p>Small publishers do not have large advertising budgets. They rely on readers sharing information about their publications. Climbing magazines depend on word-of-mouth recommendations and organic interest from the climbing community.</p>



<p>The reduction in climbing magazines leaves less competition but also fewer choices. Climbers interested in rock climbing, bouldering, sport climbing, trad climbing, alpine climbing, and ice climbing now have limited print options. The remaining publications serve an audience that still exists despite industry consolidation.</p>
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		<title>Pro Climber Allison Vest Redefines Gear with Her Game-Changing Climbing Pants Innovation</title>
		<link>https://www.dpmclimbing.com/pro-climber-allison-vest-redefines-gear-with-her-game-changing-climbing-pants-innovation/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jake]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2025 15:15:40 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[News]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.dpmclimbing.com/?p=1400</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Canadian professional climber Allison Vest is known for her prowess on the wall, but her creativity doesn’t stop there. When...]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[
<p>Canadian professional climber Allison Vest is known for her prowess on the wall, but her creativity doesn’t stop there. When she isn’t climbing monumental routes or solving tricky boulder problems, she’s stitching, designing, and perfecting custom climbing pants in her home studio. Unsatisfied with the standard offerings in climbing apparel, Vest has taken it upon herself to reimagine the perfect blend of function and fashion in climbing gear. Her sewing obsession isn’t just a hobby—it’s an extension of the problem-solving mindset that helped her scale some of the world’s toughest boulders.</p>



<p>Vest’s foray into sewing began as a teenager, when her grandmother introduced her to the sewing machine. Years later, it’s now as much a part of her life as climbing itself. “It’s similar to climbing,” Vest shared. “There’s a process, and it’s all about trial and error. Sometimes you make something, and it doesn’t work. But that journey of figuring it out—the creativity and problem-solving—is what makes it special.”</p>


<div class="wp-block-image">
<figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img fetchpriority="high" decoding="async" width="1070" height="602" src="https://www.dpmclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/allison-Vest-new-climbing-pants2.avif" alt="" class="wp-image-1408"/><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">Photo Cred: Allison Vest</figcaption></figure>
</div>


<p>That methodical process has turned her into something of a sewing virtuoso. Vest often spends months perfecting a single design, tweaking every measurement and seam to ensure her creations deliver both full-range motion and aesthetic appeal. One of her standout designs, a bolero set made from a mix of thrifted and upcycled materials, reflects her ethos of intentional, sustainable clothing. “It’s really cool to use fabrics with a story,” she said, explaining how she sources old sweatshirts or jeans from thrift shops to create something both functional and fashionable.</p>



<p>Vest’s passion for sewing is deeply tied to her climbing career. Clothing and movement, she believes, are inherently connected. While climbing apparel often leans into bulky, utilitarian designs, she sees opportunity for more chic, tailored options that don’t compromise mobility. “I’ve been inspired by the way dancers dress to enhance their movement,” Vest explained. “Climbers need the same range of motion, but climbing pants don’t always deliver. I think we can do better.”</p>



<p>Her designs prioritize functionality without sacrificing style, and they reflect a body-positive approach to tailoring. Many traditional climbing pants, according to Vest, fail to fit diverse body shapes, but her custom work allows her to address that gap. “One of the superpowers of sewing your own clothes is crafting something that fits your body perfectly,” she said. Her process often involves altering thrifted pieces or creating patterns from scratch to suit her needs.</p>


<div class="wp-block-image">
<figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img decoding="async" width="730" height="913" src="https://www.dpmclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/allison-Vest-new-climbing-pants-3.avif" alt="" class="wp-image-1409"/><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">Photo Cred: Allison Vest</figcaption></figure>
</div>


<p>For those intrigued by the idea of sewing but hesitant to start, Vest is quick to share her approach. “Start small,” she said. “Find a project that excites you, whether it’s hemming old pants or making a basic top. You’ll stay motivated if you have a real goal.” She also credits the wealth of free online resources like YouTube tutorials and Instagram creators for helping her polish her skills. “You don’t have to be perfect right away,” she reassured. “Part of the fun is embracing the imperfections and learning as you go.”</p>



<p>One of Vest’s key beliefs in sewing—and climbing, for that matter—is that process matters more than perfection. “There’s something really rewarding about making something with your own hands,” she reflected. Her passion for upcycling clothing ties in with a broader push for sustainability in the outdoor industry, where brands like The North Face are innovating with recycled fabrics and circular economy initiatives. Vest herself often chooses vintage materials, which she reimagines into eye-catching pieces with intricate patterns and bold cuts. </p>


<div class="wp-block-image">
<figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img decoding="async" width="768" height="576" src="https://www.dpmclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/allison-Vest-new-climbing-pants-4.avif" alt="" class="wp-image-1410"/><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">Photo Cred: Allison Vest</figcaption></figure>
</div>


<p>As a climber and artist, Vest is a testament to finding creativity in all aspects of life. Whether she’s pushing herself to a new bouldering grade or perfecting her latest pants design, the goals are strikingly similar: commitment to the process, willingness to fail, and the joy of seeing something come together. “Ultimately, it’s just really fun,” she said with a laugh. “I hope more climbers try it. It’s such a rewarding side gig to climbing.”</p>



<p>Her story is not only a reminder of the power of creativity but also an invitation for climbers to think outside the box—whether in their hobbies or how they move through life.</p>
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		<title>Katie Lamb Shatters Limits as First Woman to Conquer V16—Twice!</title>
		<link>https://www.dpmclimbing.com/katie-lamb-shatters-limits-as-first-woman-to-conquer-v16-twice/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jake]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2025 14:28:21 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[News]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.dpmclimbing.com/?p=1401</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Katie Lamb has once again made history, becoming the first woman to climb a confirmed V16 boulder problem—for the second...]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[
<p>Katie Lamb has once again made history, becoming the first woman to climb a confirmed V16 boulder problem—for the second time. Her latest accomplishment came with her ascent of <em>The Dark Side</em> in Yosemite National Park, a 17-move challenge that has only been conquered by a select few elite climbers. In doing so, she set an undeniable milestone in women’s climbing and reaffirmed her place at the forefront of the sport. But for Lamb, the journey was about much more than the title.</p>



<p>In an Instagram post following her achievement, Lamb reflected on the mental and physical demands of the climb, as well as the perseverance it required. “There are moments of stickiness for a scaler,” she shared, describing the balance between preparation, persistence, and showing up to try, even when the odds seem daunting. That mindset carried her through the many months it took to tackle <em>The Dark Side</em>—a boulder problem established by Carlo Traversi in December 2023 and widely considered one of the toughest in the United States.</p>



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<p>This isn’t Lamb’s first brush with the V16 grade. In July 2023, she climbed <em>Box Therapy</em> in Colorado, initially celebrated as the first woman to ascend a V16 boulder. That achievement, however, became mired in controversy after top climbers later reevaluated the climb, downgrading it to V15. For Lamb, the public discourse surrounding <em>Box Therapy</em> was an eye-opening experience. “[The] drama generated by others [felt] imposing,” she explained, reflecting on the external pressure to conform to narratives she didn’t create. Afterward, she found herself questioning the value she personally placed on public opinion about her climbing.</p>



<p>This time, however, there’s no debate. <em>The Dark Side</em> has been repeatedly confirmed by other climbers, including Aidan Roberts and Keenan Takahashi, as V16. For Lamb, it’s not just the difficulty of the problem but the process that makes the accomplishment personally meaningful. “It felt like there was so much to learn and discover,” she said of the climb, which she first tried in early 2024. Lamb had to combat various challenges over the months she dedicated to the project, including Yosemite’s notoriously tricky weather conditions, physical setbacks, and moments of doubt. At times, she thought she might not complete the climb this season. But by refocusing her mindset—shifting from an outcome-driven goal to one grounded in curiosity and progress—she unlocked her potential and stuck the send.</p>


<div class="wp-block-image">
<figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="768" height="512" src="https://www.dpmclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/darkside.png" alt="" class="wp-image-1403" srcset="https://www.dpmclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/darkside.png 768w, https://www.dpmclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/darkside-300x200.png 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px" /><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">Photo Cred: Eric Bissell</figcaption></figure>
</div>


<p>While climbing at this level is hardly straightforward, Lamb said that she savored the process of working on <em>The Dark Side</em>—even in the face of setbacks. With its friction-reliant holds and precise movements, the problem demands a delicate balance between power and finesse. Lamb explained the unique conditions required to make progress: finding the ideal mix of skin moisture and rock friction, trying on cooler days, and even relying on post-rainstorm humidity to aid her efforts on the sloper-dominated problem.</p>



<p>Ultimately, her persistence was rewarded in March, on what she described as a surprisingly warm day. Believing it might be her last chance of the season, Lamb went in with no expectations—and climbed the hardest route of her career. For her, the experience supersedes any external accolades: “It was almost cliché,” she admitted, “but I went through this arc of trying something at my limit, not being sure if I could do it&#8230; then detaching a little bit from what the climb would represent in a larger sense.”</p>


<div class="wp-block-image">
<figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="730" height="903" src="https://www.dpmclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/dark-side-2.png" alt="" class="wp-image-1404" srcset="https://www.dpmclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/dark-side-2.png 730w, https://www.dpmclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/dark-side-2-243x300.png 243w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 730px) 100vw, 730px" /><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">Photo Cred: Chris Natalie</figcaption></figure>
</div>


<p>Despite the achievement’s significance for women’s climbing, Lamb has consistently emphasized the importance of separating external validation from personal experience. She’s proud, of course, to inspire others and to contribute to raising the bar for female athletes, but her motivations remain deeply personal. “I feel proud that women might find this inspiring or that this is a new level for women’s climbing,” she said. “But that can exist without me personally feeling like I embody that.”</p>



<p>Katie Lamb’s ascent of <em>The Dark Side</em> cements her position as one of the leading figures not just in women’s bouldering, but in climbing as a whole. Yet her story is a reminder that even at the highest levels of the sport, the journey remains as important as the destination. With this historic climb behind her, Lamb not only proves her physical prowess but also demonstrates the value of persistence, self-reflection, and, above all, finding meaning beyond the spotlight.</p>
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		<title>7 Hilarious Dawn Wall Quotes by the Mainstream Media</title>
		<link>https://www.dpmclimbing.com/7-hilarious-dawn-wall-quotes-by-the-mainstream-media/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jake]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 07 Mar 2025 02:53:45 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[News]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.dpmclimbing.com/?p=620</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[The Dawn Wall is a 3,000ft rock face on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park in California. It&#8217;s the mecca...]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[
<p>The Dawn Wall is a 3,000ft rock face on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park in California. It&#8217;s the mecca of rock climbing, and Dawn Wall mania has swept the globe. Talks of ascents have made it into the mainstream press, where the whole world is watching as Kevin Jorgenson and Tommy Caldwell battle it out on what would become the world&#8217;s hardest big wall free climb. This event is groundbreaking, and it&#8217;s not often that non-climbers take interest in our climbing world but here we are.</p>



<p>The movie for this spectacle was released in 2017 and is titled &#8220;The Dawn Wall&#8221; but up until then coverage was brought to you by a distortion of information by media companies across the world. It&#8217;s like a game of telephone, where a climber explains the significance of this event to a non-climber who then reports it as slightly distorted facts &#8211; before you know it we&#8217;re left with clickbait articles that greatly undermine the importance.</p>



<p>Here we&#8217;ve assembled our favorite quotes we&#8217;ve seen recently, all for your viewing pleasure.</p>



<ul class="wp-block-list">
<li>&#8220;<em>Free climbing means no help, and no feet on the ground</em>.&#8221; &#8211; <a href="https://www.independent.co.uk/travel/activity-adventure/climbing-the-toughest-cliff-in-the-world-the-two-men-on-course-to-make-history-9959200.html" data-type="URL" data-id="https://www.independent.co.uk/travel/activity-adventure/climbing-the-toughest-cliff-in-the-world-the-two-men-on-course-to-make-history-9959200.html" data-lasso-id="2709" rel="noopener">Independent UK</a>. This definitely is nonsensical, especially since free climbing is different when you keep your feet on the ground. It&#8217;s just like saying free climbing is &#8220;free&#8221; and something you don&#8217;t have to pay for.</li>
</ul>



<ul class="wp-block-list">
<li>&#8220;<em>Apart from the ropes that they bolt to the rock as they go, and their smartphones, they are alone.</em>&#8221; &#8211;<a href="https://www.independent.co.uk/travel/activity-adventure/climbing-the-toughest-cliff-in-the-world-the-two-men-on-course-to-make-history-9959200.html" data-type="URL" data-id="https://www.independent.co.uk/travel/activity-adventure/climbing-the-toughest-cliff-in-the-world-the-two-men-on-course-to-make-history-9959200.html" data-lasso-id="2710" rel="noopener">Independent UK</a>. Obviously climbers bolt their ropes straight into the rock (no they don&#8217;t &#8211; please don&#8217;t do that), and all the film crew members don&#8217;t count as better company than your average smartphone.</li>
</ul>



<ul class="wp-block-list">
<li>&#8220;<em>Kevin Jorgeson and Tommy Caldwell on Wednesday completed what&#8217;s considered to be the hardest route up Yosemite&#8217;s El Capitan using only their hands and feet</em>.&#8221; &#8211;<a href="https://www.buzzfeednews.com/article/jasonwells/two-men-are-attempting-the-hardest-rock-climb-in-the-world-u" data-type="URL" data-id="https://www.buzzfeednews.com/article/jasonwells/two-men-are-attempting-the-hardest-rock-climb-in-the-world-u" data-lasso-id="2711" rel="noopener">Buzzfeed</a>. Just their hands and feet? That&#8217;s ama-za-zing!</li>
</ul>



<ul class="wp-block-list">
<li><em>Kevin Jorgeson and Tommy Caldwell on Wednesday became the first free climbers to scale the treacherous Dawn Wall of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, completing what&#8217;s considered to be the <strong>hardest rock climb in the world</strong> without the aid of ropes or harnesses.</em>&#8221; &#8211;<a data-lasso-id="2713" href="https://www.buzzfeednews.com/article/jasonwells/two-men-are-attempting-the-hardest-rock-climb-in-the-world-u" data-type="URL" data-id="https://www.buzzfeednews.com/article/jasonwells/two-men-are-attempting-the-hardest-rock-climb-in-the-world-u" rel="noopener">Buzzfeed</a>. Hey idiot, El Cap isn&#8217;t a rock climb.</li>
</ul>



<ul class="wp-block-list">
<li>&#8220;<em>In 2012, Alex Honnold, another American, scaled The Nose, the most established and much grippier way up El Cap, in two and a half hours.</em>&#8221; &#8211;<a data-lasso-id="2715" href="https://www.independent.co.uk/travel/activity-adventure/climbing-the-toughest-cliff-in-the-world-the-two-men-on-course-to-make-history-9959200.html" data-type="URL" data-id="https://www.independent.co.uk/travel/activity-adventure/climbing-the-toughest-cliff-in-the-world-the-two-men-on-course-to-make-history-9959200.html" rel="noopener">Independent UK</a>. Didn&#8217;t you know that The Nose is way grippier than the Dawn Wall? That&#8217;s a fact.</li>
</ul>



<ul class="wp-block-list">
<li>&#8220;<em>Two thrill seekers in Yosemite National Park are trying to tackle one of the toughest climbs in the world</em>.&#8221; &#8211;<a href="https://www.cbsnews.com/sanfrancisco/news/men-attempt-historic-free-climb-dangerous-dawn-wall-on-yosemites-el-capitan/" data-type="URL" data-id="https://www.cbsnews.com/sanfrancisco/news/men-attempt-historic-free-climb-dangerous-dawn-wall-on-yosemites-el-capitan/" data-lasso-id="2716" rel="noopener">CBS News</a>. Not only are these just thrill seeking adrenaline junkies, but the screen grab above says they&#8217;re just hikers too.</li>
</ul>



<ul class="wp-block-list">
<li>&#8220;<em>They were scaling the Dawn Wall — as smooth as alabaster, as steep as the bedroom wall, more than half a mile tall — without the benefit of ropes, other than to catch their falls</em>.&#8221; &#8211;<a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2015/01/05/sports/on-el-capitans-dawn-wall-two-climbers-make-slow-progress-toward-a-dream.html" data-type="URL" data-id="https://www.nytimes.com/2015/01/05/sports/on-el-capitans-dawn-wall-two-climbers-make-slow-progress-toward-a-dream.html" data-lasso-id="2717" rel="noopener">New York Times</a>. This is less about offending climbers and more about offending writers. This sentence is essentially saying the rock is as smooth as rock and the wall is as steep as a wall. Worst analogy ever.</li>
</ul>
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		<title>The Dawn Wall vs Free Solo</title>
		<link>https://www.dpmclimbing.com/the-dawn-wall-vs-free-solo/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jake]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 07 Mar 2025 01:00:57 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[News]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.dpmclimbing.com/?p=611</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[We're going to break down all the differences between The Dawn Wall vs Free Solo and pick a favorite - read on to learn more about both films!]]></description>
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<p>Climbing documentaries have long served as sources of inspiration, aspiration, and flat-out awe for audiences. But it&#8217;s not often that two films, each its own cinematic masterpiece, shine so brightly in mainstream media around the same time. Enter The Dawn Wall and Free Solo, two documentaries that stormed into public consciousness in 2017 and 2018, respectively. Both films focus on historic climbs on El Capitan (aka El Cap) in Yosemite National Park, yet they couldn&#8217;t be more different in their narrative, climactic focus, and even the types of climbing they depict. </p>



<p>In this article, we&#8217;ll delve into the nuances that set these two incredible documentaries apart and why each is a must-watch for anyone remotely interested in climbing or the human spirit. Keep reading to learn more about the people, the climbs, and the styles of filmmaking that make The Dawn Wall and Free Solo truly exceptional in their own right.</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading">What is The Dawn Wall About?</h2>



<p>The Dawn Wall movie is a gripping documentary that follows the incredible journey of professional climber Tommy Caldwell as he attempts the first free ascent of one of the most daunting rock faces in the world—the Dawn Wall of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park. Tommy Caldwell is no ordinary climber; he&#8217;s a legend in the climbing community, known for his technical skill, unparalleled endurance, and unwavering determination. A man who endured captivity in Kyrgyzstan and even sawed off his own index finger, Caldwell&#8217;s story is a testament to the resilience of the human spirit.</p>



<p>The Dawn Wall itself is a colossal, 3,000-foot sheer granite face that was long considered &#8220;unclimbable.&#8221; What makes this wall unique is its lack of cracks and natural holds, making it an extremely technical and demanding climb. This rock formation that has been the mecca of the climbing world for decades, the Dawn Wall offers challenges that even the most experienced climbers would hesitate to tackle.</p>



<p>The storyline of The Dawn Wall goes far beyond the climb itself, delving into the complexity of Caldwell&#8217;s life—his past struggles, losses, and his camaraderie with fellow climber Kevin Jorgeson. Why does this event warrant a movie? Because it&#8217;s not just about about free climbing; it&#8217;s about pushing the boundaries of what is considered humanly possible. The film captures a monumental moment in climbing history while painting an intimate portrait of a man who refuses to give up, no matter the obstacles. It addresses themes of friendship, perseverance, and the limitless capabilities of the human body and spirit. This isn&#8217;t just a film for climbing enthusiasts; it&#8217;s a human story that anyone can relate to, making The Dawn Wall a universally resonant documentary.</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading">What is Free Solo About?</h2>



<p>Free Solo is another awe-inspiring rock climbing documentary, but it takes a different tack by focusing on the perilous and highly controversial practice of free soloing—a form of climbing where the athlete ascends without ropes, harnesses, or any other protective gear. At the center of this high-stakes drama is Alex Honnold, an unassuming yet incredibly skilled climber whose name is synonymous with this risky style of ascent. Alex Honnold is an enigma in many ways, his calm demeanor sharply contrasting the death-defying acts he casually undertakes.</p>



<p>The film&#8217;s focus is Honnold&#8217;s attempt to free solo El Cap on the <em>Freerider </em>route in Yosemite. It&#8217;s one of the most iconic climbing routes in the world, but the idea of ascending its 3,300-foot southwest face without ropes is almost inconceivable. The very thought sends shivers down the spines of even the most seasoned climbers. To climb El Cap is a huge undertaking, to climb it without ropes seems inconcievable.</p>



<p>Free Solo isn&#8217;t just a chronicle of an unbelievable athletic feat; it delves deep into the psychological and emotional aspects of its protagonist. We see Alex Honnold grappling with the implications of his endeavor, not just for himself but for those who care about him, including his girlfriend, Sanni McCandless. This adds a layer of emotional complexity, making it more than a simple sports documentary. The film offers an intimate look into Honnold&#8217;s life and thoughts, as well as the ethical and emotional dimensions of extreme sports. It begs the question: How much risk is too much in the pursuit of greatness? Whether you&#8217;re a climbing aficionado or a newbie, Free Solo challenges you to confront this dilemma, making for an unforgettable cinematic experience.</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading">The Dawn Wall vs Free Solo</h2>



<p>Now let&#8217;s dissect the key differences between The Dawn Wall and Free Solo, which are both masterpieces in their own right but divergent in many aspects. While they share a stage (El Capitan in Yosemite) and a general subject matter (rock climbing) each film captures a wholly distinct narrative, approach to climbing, and ethos. We&#8217;ll explore the nuances that set these films apart, from the climbers themselves to the types of climbing showcased, the routes, preparation, and their respective accolades and box office performances.</p>



<div class="wp-block-group"><div class="wp-block-group__inner-container is-layout-constrained wp-container-core-group-is-layout-da9e79d1 wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained">
<figure class="wp-block-table is-style-stripes"><table class="has-border-color has-foreground-border-color" style="border-width:1px"><thead><tr><th class="has-text-align-center" data-align="center">Aspect</th><th class="has-text-align-center" data-align="center">The Dawn Wall</th><th class="has-text-align-center" data-align="center">Free Solo</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td class="has-text-align-center" data-align="center">Climbers</td><td class="has-text-align-center" data-align="center">Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson</td><td class="has-text-align-center" data-align="center">Alex Honnold</td></tr><tr><td class="has-text-align-center" data-align="center">Climbing Styles</td><td class="has-text-align-center" data-align="center">Free climb, using ropes for safety</td><td class="has-text-align-center" data-align="center">Free solo, climbing without any safety equipment</td></tr><tr><td class="has-text-align-center" data-align="center">Main Route (on El Cap)</td><td class="has-text-align-center" data-align="center"><em>The Dawn Wall</em> route</td><td class="has-text-align-center" data-align="center"><em>Freerider</em> route</td></tr><tr><td class="has-text-align-center" data-align="center">Focus</td><td class="has-text-align-center" data-align="center">Perseverance, emotional journey</td><td class="has-text-align-center" data-align="center">Mental and physical challenges, psychology</td></tr><tr><td class="has-text-align-center" data-align="center">Preparation</td><td class="has-text-align-center" data-align="center">6+ years</td><td class="has-text-align-center" data-align="center">15 years</td></tr><tr><td class="has-text-align-center" data-align="center">Box Office Performance</td><td class="has-text-align-center" data-align="center">Acclaimed and successful</td><td class="has-text-align-center" data-align="center">Academy Award for Best Documentary (2019)</td></tr></tbody></table><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">A table comparing the two movies: The Dawn Wall and Free Solo.</figcaption></figure>
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<h3 class="wp-block-heading">The Climbers</h3>



<p>The first and most obvious difference between these two movies is the climbers around which they are based. Tommy Caldwell (The Dawn Wall) and Alex Honnold (Free Solo) are very different climbers who have dramatically different life stories and climbing styles. </p>


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<figure class="alignright size-full is-resized"><img decoding="async" src="https://knownothingnomads.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/freerider-dawnwallvsfreesolo-2.png" alt="alex honnold's free solo el cap free soloists" class="wp-image-48359" style="width:572px;height:381px"/><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">Wall where the <em>Freerider</em> route is located. </figcaption></figure>
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<p><strong>Tommy Caldwell is a seasoned professional climber known for his perseverance and meticulous planning. </strong>He&#8217;s been climbing since childhood and has notched numerous record-setting ascents, but the Dawn Wall was a seven-year-long obsession born out of personal and professional turmoil, including being held hostage in Kyrgyzstan and a painful divorce. His storyline is deeply emotional and motivational, demonstrating the power of resilience. Caldwell&#8217;s approach to climbing is analytical; he&#8217;s about solving problems and overcoming significant physical and emotional barriers. He views climbing as a way to transcend life&#8217;s challenges, and this mentality spills into The Dawn Wall, making it a saga about much more than just climbing.</p>



<p><strong>On the other hand, Alex Honnold is a prodigy in the sport, famous for his audacious free solo climbs. </strong>He started climbing in indoor gyms and quickly gained fame for climbing routes that most wouldn&#8217;t attempt without ropes, let alone solo (such as Half Dome and Moonlight Buttress). A free solo climb isn&#8217;t just a type of climbing for Alex Honnold; it&#8217;s a lifestyle, a mental state where he feels most alive. His film Free Solo captures this psychological tightrope as much as the physical one he scales on <em>Freerider</em>. Honnold’s motivation seems to emanate more from a place of mastering fear and seeking perfection, rather than overcoming external life challenges. He sees climbing as an arena for pushing human limits, and this makes Free Solo a heart-pounding psychological thriller as much as it is a climbing film.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Types of Climbing &amp; Climbing Styles</h3>



<p>The second biggest difference between these two movies is the type of climbing. Where rock climbing is a general term covering a wide range of specific kinds of climbing, these two movies dive into <strong>two very specific types of climbing: free climbing and free soloing</strong>. Even though they sound very similar, they are remarkably different.</p>



<p>In The Dawn Wall, <strong>Tommy Caldwell and his climbing partner, Kevin Jorgeson, engage in what is known as big wall free climbing.</strong> In this climbing style, climbers use ropes and other equipment solely for safety, meaning they don&#8217;t assist in the actual climbing. Free climbing means they are scaling the wall using only their hands and feet on the rock features; the ropes catch them if they fall but do not help them ascend. Big wall climbing often involves multi-day ascents where climbers either return to a base or camp out on the wall itself, hanging in suspended tents known as portaledges.</p>



<p>In contrast, <strong>Free Solo showcases Alex Honnold ascending the <em>Freerider</em> route on El Capitan without any ropes or safety gear, a climbing style known as free soloing. </strong>Imagine walking on a tightrope thousands of feet in the air without a safety net, and you have an inkling of what free soloing entails. In this high-stakes style, there is absolutely zero margin for error; a single slip or miscalculation is fatal. Unlike big wall climbing, where the physical and technical challenges are spread over multiple days and can be approached in a more analytical fashion, free soloing means the the mental and physical demands are compressed into a shorter timeframe, requiring absolute focus and control.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">The Route</h3>



<p><em>The Dawn Wall </em>and <em>Freerider</em> routes on El Capitan are both iconic, but they offer very different climbing experiences. Both routes are marvels of climbing complexity, demanding a high level of physical fitness, technical skill, and mental fortitude. However, the Dawn Wall is often likened to a vertical chessboard that requires intricate planning and problem-solving, whereas <em>Freerider</em>, especially when tackled without ropes, is more of a high-stakes obstacle course that demands real-time decision-making and unwavering confidence.</p>


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<figure class="aligncenter size-full is-resized"><img decoding="async" src="https://knownothingnomads.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/dawnwallvsfreesolo2.png" alt="hardest big wall climb" class="wp-image-48348" style="width:610px;height:406px"/></figure>
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<h4 class="wp-block-heading">The Dawn Wall</h4>



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<p><em>The Dawn Wall</em> is located on the southeastern face of El Capitan and is known for its exceptionally smooth, nearly featureless granite surface, making it one of the most difficult free climbs in the world. Spanning around 3,000 feet, it&#8217;s a vertical jigsaw puzzle that took years for Tommy Caldwell to decode. The wall is a series of pitches—individual sections of the climb—that vary widely in difficulty, including some that are among the toughest in the sport. Climbers often have to use &#8220;micro holds,&#8221; tiny imperfections in the rock that are barely enough to grip, adding to the route&#8217;s extreme difficulty.</p>



<p>The NY Times has an awesome <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2015/01/09/sports/the-dawn-wall-el-capitan.html?_r=0" data-type="link" data-id="https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2015/01/09/sports/the-dawn-wall-el-capitan.html?_r=0" rel="noopener">interactive map of this route</a>.</p>
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<h4 class="wp-block-heading">The Dawn Wall Stats</h4>



<ul class="wp-block-list">
<li>2,500 feet tall, 32 pitches</li>



<li>Grade VI, 5.14c</li>



<li>FA: Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell</li>



<li>FFA: Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson (2015)</li>



<li>First Repeat: Adam Ondra in 8 days (2016)</li>
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<h4 class="wp-block-heading">Freerider</h4>



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<p>In contrast, the <em>Freerider</em> route is located on the southwestern face of El Capitan and is generally considered to be less technically challenging than the Dawn Wall. However, the concept of &#8220;less challenging&#8221; is relative when talking about one of the world&#8217;s most famous big walls. <em>Freerider</em> still offers a diverse array of climbing challenges, from delicate slab climbing to physically demanding overhangs. The route also features the notorious Boulder Problem, a sequence of holds that is very difficult to navigate and presents one of the climb&#8217;s main challenges. Unlike the Dawn Wall, which has very few resting spots due to its relentless difficulty, Freerider offers more opportunities for breaks, although the lack of ropes in Alex Honnold&#8217;s free solo attempt meant he had little room for rest.</p>
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<h4 class="wp-block-heading">Free Solo Stats</h4>



<ul class="wp-block-list">
<li>3,300 feet tall</li>



<li>30 pitches</li>



<li>Grade VI</li>



<li>5.13a PG13</li>



<li>FA: Thomas and Alexander Huber (1998)</li>
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<h3 class="wp-block-heading">The Preparation</h3>



<p>The preparation involved in both Free Solo and The Dawn Wall is intense and meticulous, but the approaches of the climbers were fundamentally different.</p>



<p>Tommy Caldwell&#8217;s years-long odyssey to climb the <em>Dawn Wall</em> involved not just preparation but also innovation. A new route had to be established, and that meant endless days of route-finding, practicing, failing, and re-strategizing. For Caldwell, the preparation was both physical and mental, requiring an understanding of rock formations, identifying potential hand and foot holds, and then attempting to climb them, often failing and going back to the drawing board. The Dawn Wall movie was an exploration project as much as it was a climbing endeavor. It was not just about conquering a mountain; it was about deciphering an incredibly complex puzzle and then physically manifesting the solution.</p>



<p>On the other hand, Alex Honnold&#8217;s preparation for climbing the <em>Freerider</em> route was based on perfecting an already-established climb. While the route was well-known, the sheer audacity of climbing it without any ropes or safety gear meant that Honnold&#8217;s preparation had to be extraordinarily thorough. Over the course of 15 years, he memorized every handhold and foothold on <em>Freerider</em>, practicing repeatedly until he felt confident enough to make the solo ascent. Unlike Caldwell, who had to deal with the uncertainty of an uncharted route, Honnold&#8217;s preparation revolved around eliminating all variables, reaching a level of certainty and familiarity with the route that would make it as &#8220;safe&#8221; as possible for a ropeless climb. Both approaches to preparation are awe-inspiring but represent two very different philosophies and relationships with the rock.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Accolades &amp; Box Office</h3>


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<figure class="alignright size-full is-resized"><img decoding="async" src="https://knownothingnomads.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/the-dawn-wall-freesolovsdawnwall-1.png" alt="first free ascent tommy caldwell the dawn wall route el capitan" class="wp-image-48352" style="width:434px;height:652px"/><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">The Dawn Wall. You can see how it looks like a sheer rock face.</figcaption></figure>
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<p>When it comes to accolades and box office performance, both The Dawn Wall and Free Solo have had significant impacts, but in slightly different ways. Free Solo enjoyed more mainstream success, winning the Academy Award for Best Documentary Feature in 2019. The film also was a box office hit, grossing over $28 million worldwide. Its mainstream appeal extended beyond the climbing community, captivating audiences with the death-defying nature of Alex Honnold&#8217;s feat and the stunning cinematography that captured it. This recognition not only shone a spotlight on the sport of climbing but also elevated it to mainstream consciousness in a way that few other climbing films have done.</p>



<p>The Dawn Wall, while not an Academy Award winner, received critical acclaim and performed well within its genre. The film was praised for its storytelling, delving deeply into Tommy Caldwell&#8217;s life and the many obstacles he had to overcome, making it resonate even with audiences who had no prior interest in climbing. Although it didn&#8217;t match Free Solo in box office numbers, The Dawn Wall has been influential within the climbing community and beyond, receiving various awards at film festivals. It&#8217;s also worth noting that the film has been highly praised for its cinematography and storytelling, much like Free Solo.</p>



<p>In summary, while both films have been celebrated for their compelling stories and breathtaking visuals, Free Solo has the edge in mainstream recognition and box office earnings. On the other hand, The Dawn Wall holds its own as an inspirational and critically acclaimed film that delves into the complexities of a long and arduous climbing journey. Both films are landmark entries in the genre of climbing documentaries, but their differing accolades and box office performances reflect the ways in which they have connected with diverse audiences.</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading">The Dawn Wall vs Free Solo &#8211; Which is Better?</h2>



<p><strong>Free Solo is better than The Dawn Wall. </strong>That being said, this is a matter of opinion and you should watch both so you can decide for yourself. </p>



<p>While the term &#8220;better&#8221; is subjective and varies from person to person, some might argue that Free Solo is a more engaging film based on its ability to appeal to a broader audience, including those who have little to no interest in climbing. When I watched both movies, I was struck by the level of tension and suspense in Free Solo, which seemed to translate well even for viewers who are not well-versed in climbing terminology or culture. The film delves into the psychological aspects of free soloing — a type of climbing that involves ascending without ropes or safety gear — and the inherent life-or-death stakes offer an immediacy and tension that&#8217;s hard to match.</p>



<p>Another aspect where Free Solo shines is its cinematography. The filmmakers employed cutting-edge technology and took great risks to film Alex Honnold climbing, offering a visceral experience that puts the viewer right there on the rock face with him. These elements, combined with Honnold&#8217;s introspective and somewhat enigmatic personality, make for a movie experience that is not just about climbing but also about human limits, fear, and ambition.</p>



<p>Free Solo also does an excellent job in exploring the ethical concerns around filming such a dangerous feat (in fact, free soloing is so dangerous that Cliff Bars withdrew their sponsorship from Alex Honnold and other free soloists in 2014). The filmmakers themselves become characters in the story, sharing their own fears and dilemmas about the possibility of witnessing a fatal fall. This adds an extra layer of depth and complexity to the film, raising questions about the role of media in extreme sports.</p>



<p>In summary, while both The Dawn Wall and Free Solo offer compelling stories and stunning visuals, Free Solo might edge out as &#8220;better&#8221; for some due to its broader appeal, psychological depth, and ethical complexity. Of course, this is just one perspective, and fans of The Dawn Wall would have their own valid reasons for preferring that film.</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading">Conclusion</h2>



<p>In the end, both The Dawn Wall and Free Solo serve as compelling testaments to human determination, skill, and our eternal quest to conquer seemingly insurmountable challenges. While they center around the same sport and even the same iconic rock formation, the two films offer markedly different narratives, types of climbing, and protagonists, making each a unique cinematic experience. </p>



<p>The Dawn Wall provides an in-depth look at the relentless preparation and collaboration involved in pioneering a new climbing route, whereas Free Solo taps into the psychology of risk and the awe-inspiring capabilities of the human body and mind when pushed to the edge. Whether you&#8217;re a climbing enthusiast or a newcomer to the sport, both documentaries offer valuable insights into what drives people to scale the heights of human potential. Ultimately, which film is &#8220;better&#8221; might just depend on what you&#8217;re looking to discover—about climbing, about the human spirit, and about yourself.</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading">FAQ&#8217;s</h2>


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<h3 class="rank-math-question ">Was Dawn Wall harder than Free Solo?</h3>
<div class="rank-math-answer ">

<p>It&#8217;s challenging to directly compare the difficulty of The Dawn Wall and Free Solo as they involve different types of climbing and different sets of risks. However, in terms of technical climbing, The Dawn Wall is considered one of the hardest climbs in the world due to its challenging pitches</p>

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<div id="faq-question-1693155379391" class="rank-math-list-item">
<h3 class="rank-math-question ">Is The Dawn Wall the same as Free Solo?</h3>
<div class="rank-math-answer ">

<p>No, The Dawn Wall and Free Solo are different films that document different climbs and climbers. The Dawn Wall focuses on Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson&#8217;s first free ascent of a particularly difficult section, while Free Solo follows Alex Honnold as he climbs the<em> Freerider</em> route (both on El Capitan) without any ropes or protective gear.</p>

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<div id="faq-question-1693155402023" class="rank-math-list-item">
<h3 class="rank-math-question ">How many people have free soloed The Dawn Wall?</h3>
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<p>No one has free soloed The Dawn Wall due to its extreme technical difficulty and risks involved.</p>

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<div id="faq-question-1693159081371" class="rank-math-list-item">
<h3 class="rank-math-question ">What is the difference between The Dawn Wall and Free Solo documentaries?</h3>
<div class="rank-math-answer ">

<p>The Dawn Wall is a documentary that chronicles Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson&#8217;s historic ascent. It focuses on their personal stories and the challenges they faced. On the other hand, Free Solo is a documentary that follows Alex Honnold&#8217;s remarkable free solo ascent of El Capitan&#8217;s <em>Freerider</em> route. It provides an intimate look into Honnold&#8217;s journey and the mental and physical challenges of free soloing.</p>

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		<title>Jonathan Hörst sends God&#8217;s Own Stone (5.14a) at 10 Years Old</title>
		<link>https://www.dpmclimbing.com/jonathan-horst-sends-gods-own-stone-5-14a-at-10-years-old/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jake]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 09 Jul 2024 02:29:04 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[News]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.dpmclimbing.com/?p=549</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Watch a 10 year old Jonathan Hörst send God&#8217;s Own Stone (5.14a) in the Red&#8217;s. The confidence and power of...]]></description>
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<p>Watch a 10 year old Jonathan Hörst send God&#8217;s Own Stone (5.14a) in the Red&#8217;s. </p>



<p>The confidence and power of such a young man is incredible to see.</p>
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<iframe loading="lazy" title="&quot;J-Beast&quot; redpointing God&#039;s Own Stone (5.14a/8b+)" width="720" height="405" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/44tAAz8x9CQ?feature=oembed" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" referrerpolicy="strict-origin-when-cross-origin" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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