Crossfire Hurricane

Uploaded by dpm

Crossfire Hurricane is an Amazing steep granite bloc in Tahoe's Sugarpine sector that sat as a prized plum for about 4 years before I finally unlocked the beta and opened the line from a stand. Jesse Bonin and I had cleaned the line and tried it a bunch finally figuring it was in the V14 range and beyond our (then) abilities. Fast forward to 2013: feeling über fit and light post Ninja Warrior training, I decided to go back and try to unlock a sequence. Several days in, I realized I could do a dyno into an iron-cross between a bad bad left crimp and a right hand jug! It was on. I stuck the dyno in a session with my good friends Joel Zerr and Jake Novotny but dabbed on the rock behind... It's hard to describe how bad this crimp is: it's basically only a 1/4 pad for the left index finger and 1/8 pad credit card for the other three. you can't try the problem too many times, and the cold really helps. Most strong climbers don't even believe the hold is usable when they first inspect the line; I know I didn't! Months later, from a low left-hand undercling side pull and the good starting pinch I sent the FA of one of Tahoe's most interesting morpho lines. The full line is edited together hear since it's 3 stars from the sit and perhaps only 2 from the stand... Soon after I sent the obvious stand, I showed the line to my friend Isaac Caldiero who instantly had the vision for a sit. We cleaned the holds down low to find an amazing star-adding V8 sequence into the standing crux! Isaac, strong Griff from Utah, locals Jon Thompson, Paul Otis, Kyle O'Meara, Charlie Barret, the California Beast, and myself all tried the line on various occasions. In the end, I put over 20 days into the sit, which is likely V13 and came up empty handed. It was an amazing journey though, and one time I stuck the lip, but my left hand blew off the crimp! I even did the stand from one move lower on link, leaving only 2 V5 moves to full glory. Paul Otis found an alternate sequence of beta, as did Charlie B. What a great line! I love Tahoe and it's blocs like these that I will think about when my pulling days are over. Try Hard and get after it! Noah