Somewhere in between the sharp fin-like escarpments of the front range, and the bluffs of the east coast, lies one of the nations best kept climbing secrets. Hidden deep inside a backdrop of dairy farms and rolling hills, the Midwest doesn’t conjure up images of aesthetic bluffs or sandstone sport climbs. In fact, the Midwest doesn’t conjure up images of rock climbing at all. You’re more likely to envision hunks of cheddar cheese and fat hairy men clad in camo than you are wiry figures dancing up vertical faces. But here, in the heart of the Midwest, lies a collection of some of the greatest and least frequented areas in the country, accessed only by a small, but lively and passionate group of climbers. Each of the following places is unique in it’s own respect. The locations are different, the rock is different and the experiences to be had are different. But all embody the rock climbing experience.

 

 

            Sometimes places and locations are significant. Names of geographical features and the states where they are found, bring to mind certain stigmas. The Rockies are synonymous with skiing, while the Midwest is not. This, in fact, is the special thing about rock. In all its forms, shapes and heights, it’s still made up of essentially the same thing. And in the Midwest, we have a lot of it. In fact, during the last ice age, gigantic glaciers advanced then receded essentially pooping out and carving crags and boulder fields. And what wasn’t created by glacial activity was crated as a result of lava flows, as is the case in Interstate State Park, Taylor’s Falls, MN. This small town tucked into the bluffs of the St. Croix River, is the site of one of the regions most beloved climbing locations.

 

 

            You don’t so much enter the city as much as you descend into it. Ten minutes prior, you were setting the cruise control at 65 mph on a flat and boring prairie highway, and then everything drops away, giving breath to a scenic and craggy river valley. This is Taylors Falls, MN and if you grew up here, you’re lucky. It’s a slow-moving community, the kind that shuts the stoplights off after 10 pm on weekdays. But what TFs lacks in city life, it makes up for in climbing and a unique blend of midwestern adventure living. People have been climbing here for decades. And the reason is simple. The majority of the finest climbs lie within a 10 minute walk of the parking lot, and with a mixture of perfect parallel and vertical cracks systems, some of the best moderate trad climbs in the Midwest reside here. As a breath of fresh air, bolting is explicitly prohibited and the rock and park area are annually maintained by hiking clubs and the Minnesota Climbers Association. But aside from the amazing roped climbing, T-falls is recognized most as a unique bouldering location. In geological history, t-falls was the site of a monumental volcanic flow. As trapped air bubbled up out of the lava, huge ‘potholes’ and sloppy cave-like features were left as the lava hardened into beautiful aesthetic basalt. This process forms the kind of bouldering that draws people from all over the region. Flat landings run straight to the base of the rock, as if created specifically for climbing. A mixture of technical and moderate bouldering is available here, with smooth slopers and balancy moves, leading up to sometimes highball topouts. Expect a crowd, as a network of footbridges has been built to accommodate tourists. When you’re done, scramble over to Angle Rock, a proud escarpment that greets the river, and a perfect place for post-send beers. As the sun sets, watch for bald eagles, and admire the beautiful tall cliffs lining the Wisconsin side of the St. Croix River.

 

 

Classics:

B2 Bomber: V4

Keyhole/Keyhole Direct 5.6/5.9

The Bulge: 5.10a

Witches Tit: 5.10a

Guidebook: Rock Climbing Minnesota and Wisconsin- Mike Farris