I’ve never been a big fan of Hueco Tanks. Maybe it’s the fact that I’ve never actually climbed there when the temps are good. Or, maybe it’s because when the temps are good, the place is over run with people battling for their chance to climb on the 10% of rock that isn’t choss. All negative aspects aside, over the years I have developed somewhat of a loving relationship towards the place for a variety of reasons. The Rock Ranch has become sort of a home away from home thanks to Charles Kelly. The food is cheap and fantastic. And that 10% portion of solid rock is fucking incredible. It’s seems obvious why I continue to return in the “heat” of early March to attend the Hueco Rock Rodeo followed by a week bouldering in the sun.

 

This year Alex and I drove down with good friends and fellow Five Ten athletes, Garrett Gregor and Audrey Gawrych. With such a good crew on board, I was having a hard time deciding if I should focus on some of my media (photo/video work) goals or my climbing goals. Following almost 9 months of finger injuries, I think my main mission was to return to Boulder without a new ache or pain.

 

Well, mission FAILED! However I probably enjoyed one of my best climbing days EVER! Let me run you through it:

 

 

Arrive at the Rock Ranch at midnight. Go to sleep at 3 am. Wake up at 7:30 am. Pick up Daniel and Courtney at the Vista Mercado a little after 8am. Drive back to the ranch for some breakfast. Eat half of a bagel with cream cheese. Rally the crew. Register  for the comp. Drive into the park. Watch the boring orientation movie. Laugh my ass off when Garrett yells “side boob” at the sight of a scantily clad Native American woman in the video. Grab all the climbing gear out of the car. Put it all back after being yelled at by a ranger for parking in a parking spot. Move to another lot. Unpack the gear. Put it all back after being yelled at again. Move the car to another lot. Unpack the car and go climbing. Warm up on Power  Of Silence (V10). Woods destroys first try. I pull it off on my third attempt. On to Loaded Direct (V12). Woods destroys first try. Everyone flails. Finally I stick the first move, but manage to fall off the last move to the lip. 3-4 more falls with the lip of the boulder in my hand. Finally send! Skin is completely fucked. Four boulders left to finish my scorecard. On to the Martini Roof. Woods takes care of Desperanza in 2 tries. I turn my attention to Tequila Sunrise (V12). Can’t even pull off the ground. Fatigue and pain consume my hands and body. 2 split tips and no energy. Things are not looking good. Sulk at my utter failure for 10 min. Split from the crew with Brian Antheunisse. On to Diaphanous Sea (V12). First try, fall off the last hard move. At least 5 more attempts falling on the last hard move. Not sure how I’m even able to pull myself off the ground. No send. On to El Techo de los Tres B (V11/12). Give it numerous attempts despite not getting anywhere close to sending it. Can’t help but think I have gotten worse at climbing, cause I had Diaphanous and Techo in the bag at last year’s comp. Wow! On to the Wonder Dyno (V10). One move. One shoe. Soft on the skin. Yeah! 10 attempts later. In the bag. 3 problems left to finish the scorecard. 2 hours left. Probably should just give up... On to Diabolique (V13). Watch Brian get close to sending while I lay on the ground licking my wounds. 1.5 hours left. Back to the car to consume some food. Tuna on a bagel. Banana and Nutella. Homemade banana bread. 4 ibuprofen. Consider throwing in the towel. 1 hour left in the comp. 3 problems needed. Fuck it. Off to Bleeding Brothers (V12). Can barely pull my shoes on at this point. Split the side of my finger open pulling my shoe on. Try the mid-section of the boulder. Rip a massive flapper on my left ring finger. My body is falling apart! Attempt the problem from the start. Fall at the end! Where did that come from? Ibuprofen kicking in. Food kicking in. Psych kicking in. Send Bleeding Brothers (V12). 20 minutes left in the comp. 2 problems left. What’s the closest semi-hard climb? Big Nose Milley (V9). Send first try. Run down the mountain. Stop at Diaphanous Sea again. Fuck it, why not? Send it first try! 5 minutes left in the comp. Finished 6 climbs! Done!

 

Basically in the course of 30 minutes, the worst climbing day of my life turned into one of the best. 3 V12’s, 2 V10’s and a V9. Unfortunately, when I woke up the morning after I had a lot of pain in both of my middle fingers. Pulley injuries again. No climbing for the rest of the trip. Back to ice therapy.

I managed to film a few things from the day, you can check them out here. I wish I could have filmed them better, but the day was a bit hectic...