Paul Robinson

Paul Robinson

Blog #9 October

It was a hot summer but it is amazing to finally have great temperatures almost every day of the week.  I have been training a ton both at Movement and Cats for the upcoming competition season as well as routes and boulders outside.  A few weeks ago I made the fourth ascent of this amazing route in Clear Creek called "Prime Time to Shine" 5.14b.  It has been nice getting on a rope recently.  It has been many years since I really have put any real effort into rope climbing.  However my psyche is very high on both ropes and boulders now.  There are a few routes around Boulder, CO that look like great projects.  I am also debating going to the final lead world cup in Slovenia next month.  If this is the case I am going to have to train extremely hard to build my endurance up since I will be competing against some of the best route climbers in the world including Adam Ondra, Patxi Usobiaga, Ramon Julian, among many others.  I am planning to do the trip with Gabor Szekely who will be competing for his home country of Hungary.  I will be the only US competitor and hope to do well!  I have never competed in a lead world cup and think that it will be quite an opportunity.  I am already nervous and have not even registered for the event yet.  I have not trained for a rope competition since I was around twelve or thirteen years old so it will be interesting.  Gabor has done many of these style comps and he will and I will be training partners for the upcoming world cup.  I have a decent endurance base right now but I know that it is going to take a lot more than that to be even close to the standard of the athletes I will have to compete against.  It is going to take a lot of work, but I have a month and I am PSYCHED!

Besides that I have been working hard on my BFA Portfolio as I will be graduating from the University of Colorado this upcoming Summer!  I have been doing a lot of painting as well as creating tons of mono type prints for the portfolio.  I am really psyched on my evolving style and hope to continue exploring this geometric style for more time. 

I am heading to Joe's Valley this weekend in an attempt to get the second ascent of James Litz's "Finger Hut Direct" V13.  The boulder climbs straight out this amazing roof on some small crimpers which at the end lends itself to an amazing dyno to a bucket at the lip.  I have tried this line in some of the worst conditions possible and look forward to trying it when it is actually decent temperatures.  After Joe's it is on to Salt Lake City, UT where I am attending one of my best friends weddings!  Looks to be an awesome weekend!


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