posted by dpm on 10/10/2011
The Austrians have won it again with Johanna Ernst and Jakob Schubert taking first place. Last night’s World Cup event at Movement Climbing and Fitness in Boulder, Colorado marks the first time a World Cup event has been held on American soil for 20 years. While it seems that nearly everyone that lives in Colorado turned out to pack the house the rest of us were able to watch a live stream on the internet hosted by American climbers Alex Johnson and Taylor Nystrom.
The problems were well set despite the challenges associated with setting for a World Cup event. The walls at Movement are somewhat shorter than many WC venues but route setters cleverly worked around that by creating two finals routes, men’s and women’s, that both made an arcing path across the wall to maximize length. The men’s route featured an initial dyno crux, followed by a one-arm campus traverse section, a kneebar rest, and a final power-endurance finale. Most competitors made it to the kneebar and then fell shortly after leaving it. Jakob Schubert was able to power onto the upper wall just shy of the chains. Route setters estimated the route to be in the 8c+ (5.14c) range.
The women’s route was more stamina oriented with most climbers falling at the final crux near the top of the wall. A quick shake in a horizontal ceiling led them to a big pull off of a very small crimp to a large sidepull feature. Winner Johanna Ernst made it through that section only to fall just shy of the top when her toe-hook blew off. The final woman to climb was second place winner, Slovenian Mina Markovic. It made for an exciting climax when Mina made it through the upper crux and rapidly approached Johanna’s high point. She fell just lower than Johanna. This route was estimated to be in the 8b+ (5.14a) range.
It was an exciting event to watch and impressive to see just how talented international World Cup competitors are. The American’s held their own though with Matty Hong finishing in 6th and Sasha Digiulian finishing 7th. Below are the top 3 finishers. Click here for full men’s results and here for full women’s results.