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V15 and 5.14d for Daniel Woods

posted by dpm on 09/20/2013

 

Daniel Woods has made the best of Colorado's perfect fall conditions with ascents of Bad Girls Club (5.14d) in Rifle and Delirium (V15) at Mt. Evans' Lincoln Lake. This week last year, Woods pulled of a similar stunt with back to back ascents of Moonshine (5.14d) at Wild Iris, Wyoming followed by a whirlwind drive back home for the first ascent of White Noise (V15) at Wild Basin, Rocky Mountain National Park.

Daniel Woods on Bad Girl's Club (5.14d). Photo: Eddie Gianelloni/Facebook www.eddiegianelloni.com/

This year, he's been back and forth between sport climbing in Rifle and bouldering along the Front Range. In late August he ticked off The Crew (5.14c) as well as The Uncertainty Principle (5.14a), a new Steve Hong route in the Wicked Cave. Then it was back to the Front Range for the 2nd ascent of The Wheel of Wolvo (V15).

Daniel returned to Rifle in mid-September for ascents of Waka Flocka Flame (5.14c) and Planet X (5.14a) in a single day, as well as Bad Girl's Club (5.14d) the day before. Bad Girl's Club was equipped by Joe Kinder and first sent by Matty Hong in 2011. It saw quick repeats by Jonathan Siegrist, Kinder, and Jon Cardwell but the suggested difficulty of the route hovered between 5.14c and 5.14d. Woods suggests 5.14d for the route commenting on his 8a scorecard, "originally proposed as 9a (5.14d) then randomly was downgraded. For sure harder than most 9as that I have done. A step up from the Crew and Wacka Flacka Flame. Amazing flow and resistant all the way to the end. Nice one Matty for climbing this rig and props to Joe for prepping her up! Joe has done a ton of bolting and cleaning in Rifle, allowing these test pieces to be possible. Your hard work is paying off, thanks man!"

Click the image to watch footage of Dave Graham and Joe Kinder climbing Bad Girl's Club. Make sure you're logged in to access DPM's Stash for free.

Daniel jetted back to the Colorado high country to tackle the 2nd ascent of Delirium at Lincoln Lake which is Jimmy Webb's recent variation finish to Wheel of Wolvo (V15). Delirium climbs the same V14 intro section then finishes out Dismantling the Enemy (V12) instead of the Overcling Traverse (V11/12). On his 8a scorecard, Daniel commented, "2nd ascent, fall has arrived! This line is the power 8C (V15). Definitely a completely new line than Wheel of Wolvo. Everything about it is different including moves, style, and mental approach. For me hard 8B+ (V14) intro into hard 8A+ (V12). Nice one on Webbys part for establishing the stand and the full line!"

source: 8a.nu