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V15’s for Moroni and Hojer

posted by dpm on 12/09/2013

In Fontainebleau, France, German Jan Hojer has put up a new 8C (V15) called Jour de Chasse at the Recloses sector. Speaking with UKC, Jan said his new problem is a variation finish to Mécanique Elèmentaire. “Instead of climbing down into Opium (V11), I chose the more direct and slightly harder top out of Narcotic (V12). To me it feels like 8C although it might be on the lower end.” He also managed Supertanker (8B+) the previous day. This is Jan’s third Fontainebleau 8C after The Big Island and Trip Hop.

In the summer of 2012, Jan visited Rocklands and amassed an incredible ticklist. Most of his ascents were captured on film and compiled in this fast-paced video. Click the image to watch Jan's impressive performance in Rocklands.

In Chironico, Switzerland, Gabri Moroni claimed the 2nd ascent of Dai Koyamada’s Insanity of Grandeur (8C). This was his first of the grade. Insanity of Grandeur is a variation finish to Martin Keller’s Der Mit Fels Tanzt (8C). It shares the start and then finishes up a dicey 8B called Delusion of Grandeur. On his 8a scorecard, Moroni said, “2nd ascent of this great testpiece from Dai! Took me 5 days of work this year + 15 minutes to do Delusion of Grandeur a few years ago. I haven't tried other 8c's in my life but I'm pretty sure this thing is harder than the other couple of 8b+'s I've done on this style...”

Der Mit Fels Tanzt is a relatively new problem, established in the spring of 2012 by local Martin Keller. After his ascent, we did an interview with Martin that includes some great photos of this beautiful boulder. Read it here.

Click the image for video of Moroni on the 2nd ascent of Insanity of Grandeur.