posted by dpm on 02/11/2014
Dai Koyamada has claimed the first ascent of Vanitas (8C/V15) at Mt. Horai, Japan, and 16-year-old Giuliano Cameroni has repeated The Story of Two Worlds (8C/V15).
On his blog, Koyamada explains that he’s worked on what was known as the “Caricature Right” project for four years. He did the stand start “a long time ago” but could never link the full line from the powerful sit start. This year, Dai surprised himself by relearning and linking the problem quite quickly. He wrote, “I was happy, but confused and don’t know why I did the problem this day.” Dai named the line Vanitas and has proposed a grade of V15. UKC notes that Dai has now done nearly thirty problems of the grade.
Dai on Vanitas (V15). Photo: Ikuko Serata/Dai's blog
In Cresciano, Switzerland, 16-year-old Swiss boulderer Guiliano Cameroni sent Dave Graham’s famous problem The Story of Two Worlds (8C/V15). Italian news source Up-climbing has an interview with Giuliano where he describes his relatively brief battle with the climb.
Cameroni had originally been trying Dreamtime (V14/15) which is on the same boulder as The Story. On his 10th day of effort, after falling in the same spot repeatedly, the conditions became humid and he turned his attention to The Story of Two Worlds. He’d previously done The Dagger (V14), which is the last half of The Story, so he began work on the first half and almost linked that part on his first day. Four days later he returned and was able to link the first portion but the latter half was soaking wet. One week after that, he linked the full line to the end twice only to be foiled by a wet heel hook in the final moves. Giuliano patiently waited for conditions to turn and, with a bit of luck, the heel hook dried up allowing him to make a very fast ascent of one of the world’s hardest problems. Click the image for video of his impressive ascent.