V13 First Ascent for Woods in Arkansas

posted by dpm on 01/05/2013

 

The strong crew of Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson, and Jimmy Webb are currently in Arkansas and all three have sent a new V13. Daniel Woods snagged it first and gave the lowdown via Facebook:

"Paul showed us this roof project on the hill side (5 minutes walk from Wood Grain Grippin') that got us amped. The line revolves around a micro thin edge placed in a horizontal roof (the picture). The crux is moving off of it to another small edge, keeping the tension, and controlling the swing out. The outro climbing is pumpy v10 to a jug finish. I made the First Ascent naming it Child's Play. Paul came back and got the 2nd. Jimmy did it shortly after Paul for the 3rd. So far, good times in the Ozarks. Still have more boulders on the list to do."

Photo: Daniel Woods/Facebook

One of the boulders that Daniel is referring to is Witness the Fitness, a Chris Sharma problem made famous by the footage of his ascent in the film Dosage 3. Sharma's 2005 first ascent was followed by Fred Nicole's 2nd ascent in 2006. Over the course of two separate trips to Arkansas, Nicole struggled to put the line together as he kept breaking holds. Though never given a suggested grade by either climber, Nicole stated that it was the hardest line he'd done of that style. The problem is very long, climbing out a low horizontal roof on mushroom-shaped holds that requires both power and fitness. Since Nicole's ascent, more holds have broken and it's been questionable if the line even goes anymore. Rumor on the street is that the crew has done all the moves and it's just a matter of one (or all of) them linking the rig. Get it done boys!