posted by dpm on 11/30/2012
After establishing Momentum (V15), Nalle Hukkataival claimed the first ascent of Off the Wagon (V15) and repeated From the Dirt Grows the Flowers (V15).
Valle Bavona, Switzerland's Wagon Project was made famous in the climbing film Dosage Volume 4. The memorable footage showed Dave Graham and Chris Sharma working on the problem that starts by stepping off of an old wagon. Chris finally unlocked the beta with an outrageous campus cross-through move but wasn't able to send the whole line. It was six years before the project finally went down last week. Nalle suggested V15 for the line but shortly after it was repeated by Jan Hojer who suggested V14. Hojer also repeated Nalle's new problem Momentum and suggested V14 for that as well after doing it in a single session.
Off the Wagon climbs up and right along the visible seam.
Today, Nalle added to his already impressive Swiss ticklist with an ascent of From the Dirt Grows Flowers (V15) in Chironico, a problem that was recently repeated by Dai Koyamada. This problem has been done two ways with first ascentionist Dave Graham topping out directly via V12 mantle and others traversing left along the lip of the boulder for a different finish. Both methods are considered V15 but Nalle chose the "OG" method, topping out straight up. He joked on Facebook, "I fell 6 times from the last move and when I climbed it, I used my forehead while manteling! Does that give me less or more style points!?"