Two Hard Trad FA’s at New River Gorge

posted by dpm on 12/01/2010

Pat Goodman and Matt Wilder have established two new 5.13+ trad climbs at the New River Gorge. Both lines qualify as the hardest trad climbs yet done in the region and both went down on November 27th in perfect conditions.

 
The unprotected boulder problem of The Scavenger (5.13+)
 
Goodman completed his long-term project at the Junkyard wall. The route climbs an amazing blank face of swirling white sandstone just right of the classic crack Stuck in Another Dimension. An unprotected highball boulder problem off the ground leads to a small slider nut and more thin gear up the face before blasting out a big roof at the top of the pitch. The Scavenger is a very serious pitch with some hard climbing in ‘don’t fall’ territory and checks in at 5.13c or d.  
 
Matt Wilder’s route can be found at Endless Wall’s Kline Wall sector, just left of the route Manilla Vanure. The route was originally eyeballed and top-roped (not free) by Goodman who graciously offered it up to Matt. Goodman described it as more sustained and less bouldery than The Scavenger. It climbs a beautiful golden wall and is heady with a long run-out near the top but ‘safe’ according to Wilder. He dubbed it the Golden Bullet and proposed a grade of 5.13d.
 
Matt Wilder on the first ascent of Golden Bullet (5.13d)
 
Both ascents were captured on film by Chuck Fryberger and his film crew. The footage will be released in his upcoming feature film ‘The Scene’ due out hopefully by late spring 2011. Check out Chuck’s blog post for a thorough write-up and more photos.
 
All photos are screen stills from the movie courtesy of Chuck Fryberger.