Two 5.15's in a day for Sharma

posted by dpm on 05/06/2011

Daila Ojeda reports on her blog that Chris Sharma has sent two 5.15 routes in one day at Oliana, Spain.  After warming up, Chris first gave a burn on Chaxiraxi (5.15b).  Chaxiraxi was bolted by Chris but Adam Ondra snagged the first ascent about a month ago.  On his 8a scorecard Adam remarked that Chaxiraxi was ‘his hardest’ making it certainly one of the hardest in the world.  The route starts with a stretch of V14 bouldering that leads to a decent rest on a tufa.  After the tufa rest, Chaxiraxi continues with sustained 5.14d/5.15a climbing.  Chris fell on the last move of the initial boulder problem and lowered. 

 

Chris Sharma at Oliana, Spain.  Photo: Keith Ladzinski/Daila's blog

 

After that, he shifted focus and redpointed the first ascent of what Daila refers to as ‘his old project’, Fight or Flight (5.15b).  Thoroughly warmed up after his success, Chris wanted to try the top part of Chaxiraxi to remember the moves.  It is possible to traverse into Chaxiraxi from the right, avoiding the V14 boulder problem via 5.12b climbing.  This variation is called simply, Chaxi, and is considered low-end 5.15a.  Adam also claimed the first ascent of this variation while working for the first ascent of the full line.  Chris redpointed Chaxi and it seems that now his send of the full Chaxiraxi is close.

 

Chris seems to be feeling light after getting the weight of First Round, First Minute off his shoulders and we’ll likely see more from him in the near future.  This was certainly a spectacular few hours in Oliana and marks the first time anyone has redpointed two 5.15’s in the same day.   

 

Daila Ojeda and Chaxi the dog (in case you were wondering how the route got it's name!)  

Photo: Boone Speed/Daila's blog