posted by dpm on 12/24/2012
In Kasagi, Japan, Toru Nakajima has sent Tokoyo (proposed V15), a problem that Dai Koyamada called his dream project. Tokoyo was established by Dai Koyamada in November, 2011. Dai put some great effort into the area, cleaning up trash and working with landowners to ensure access before setting to work on his dream line. After a month of effort in the spring of 2011, Dai left for Switzerland for the summer months. When he returned to Japan in the fall, he set back to work and found himself on top after another 14 days of effort. Dai considers Tokoyo to be one of his proudest first ascents. He never (to my knowledge) suggested a grade for the climb. Click here for the article on Dai's ascent including more pictures.
Toru on Tokoyo (V15). Photo: Toru's Facebook
UKClimbing reports 19-year-old Toru's ascent as the third ascent of the problem, though doesn't state who claimed the second. It's also unclear to me if the V15 grade was proposed by Toru or by the 2nd ascentionist. I'll update this story if more info becomes available. Congrats to Toru on a proud ascent of this beautiful boulder!
This past summer, Toru visited Colorado to sample the high country boulders and killed it. He came away with ascents of Big Worm (V14), Clan of the Cave Bear (V13), Death Trout (V13), The Mote in God's Eye (V13), The Great War for Civilization (V13) and much more. Click the image below for video of Toru bouldering in Colorado.