Tomoko Ogawa Becomes First Woman to Climb V14

posted by dpm on 10/20/2012

 

Thirty-four year-old, Japanese climber Tomoko Ogawa has become the first woman to climb V14 with her ascent of Catharsis at Shiobara. The problem took her three years of effort to complete. Ogawa had previously climbed two other V12's in Japan and multiple V10 and V11 problems all over the world including: Rocklands, Fontainebleau, Hueco Tanks, and Bishop.  

The problem, Catharsis, was originally established in 2005 by Japanese bouldering legend Dai Koyomada. The second ascent fell to Daniel Woods earlier this year who confirmed the grade. Big moves between bad holds on steep rock seems to sum up the problem, though I'd imagine you could apply that description to many V14's. The video does it justice, and Tomoko's determination is clear on the send burn. She has it wired, pulls hard, and her victory cries on the finish adequately complement the name of the problem.

Definition of Catharsis: an experience or feeling of spiritual release and purification brought about by an intense emotional experience. Click the image for video of Tomoko climbing Catharsis. 

Click the image below for more footage from the Shiobara bouldering area. Daniel Woods' ascent of Catharsis can be seen at 9:45.

Source: 8a.nu, Kairn.com