posted by dpm on 06/24/2013
Rocklands is, once again, the hot spot this week for hard bouldering. Australian James Kassay finished up his South Africa trip with an impressive last two days. On his second to last day, he sent the classic overhanging line of crimps Amandla (V14). Then he was able to put together King of Limbs (V14) for a satisfying last day send.
American Matt Fultz continued his impressive string of ascents with Sky (V14), Brown Shadow (V12), and some V11 flashes.
Joining the crew in Rocklands is American Jimmy Webb who kicked off his trip with ascents of Mooiste Meisie and Derailed. He fired off Mooiste Meisie in 20 minutes and nearly flashed Derailed, settling for a 2nd try ascent. For both problems he suggested V13. Jimmy also snagged some V11 flashes with Nutsa, Barracuda and Black Velvet.
Paul Robinson has been in a whirlwind of travel. On his home turf of Colorado about two weeks ago, he made it to finals at the Vail World Cup then ticked the 2nd ascent of Poked by a Mermaid (V13). He then jetted to California for the grand opening of the Sender One climbing gym. While there he snagged up a first ascent at the bouldering area Black Mountain then flew to Australia and started off his trip with an ascent of the Grampians' Ammagamma (V13), a boulder he says that he's "dreamed about for so long."
Paul Robinson on his recent ascent of Ammagamma (V13) in the Grampians, Australia. Photo: Paul's blog
In Colorado, Taylor McNeill sent his first V14 with Big Worm at Mt. Evans. McNeill, from Boone, North Carolina, had never sent a V13 before and skipped the grade entirely. This feat was also accomplished by Southeast boulderer Nate Draughn on the same problem. Read an entertaining interview with Nate about his send of Big Worm here. Also at Mt. Evans, Michael O'Rourke sent The Great War for Civilization (V13).
Young American Mirko Caballero is using his summer break for a European tour. He kicked off his trip with some bouldering in Magic Wood, Switzerland and came away with some hard problems like Muttertag (V11), From the Darkness to the Sunshine (V11) and then Massive Attack (V12) and Right Hand of Darkness (V11) in a single day. Currently, Mirko is joining the Petzl team in France's Gorges du Tarn for some sport climbing at the CAF RocTrip. Click the image below for a quick interview with Mirko at minute 4:50.
In other sport climbing news, Adam Ondra has ticked off another 5.14d. The route Marsupilami in Kochel, Germany was his 50th 5.14d route. Ondra is reportedly heading back to Norway soon to battle with multiple 5.15 routes in the Flatanger cave.
Sasha Digiulian is climbing in Rodellar, Spain where she recently ticked off two 5.14 routes, both of which were first female ascents.
Sasha Digiulian climbing on El Primer Hijo (5.14) in Rodellar, Spain. Photo: Jensen Walker/Sasha's Facebook