posted by dpm on 10/20/2012
In Magic Wood, Switzerland, Carlo Traversi has sent the full line out of the Darkness Cave known as In Search of Time Lost. The problem begins at The Left Hand of Darkness and adds a V11/12 boulder problem to the V14, Remembrance of Things Past. Daniel Woods was the first to link the full line back in 2008 calling it, at the time, "my hardest boulder yet." The problem was repeated by Dai Koyomada in 2010 and now Carlo has claimed the 3rd ascent.
Speaking of Dai Koyomada... Dai just pulled off another V15 to add to his resume. In Chironico, Dai climbed From The Dirt Grows the Flowers, a problem established by Dave Graham in 2005. The problem climbs a steep crack feature (V13) to the lip of the boulder where the climber encounters a choose-your-own-adventure finish. Dave's original method topped out straight up via V12 mantel. This method was used by Bernd Zangerl on the 2nd ascent and also by Adam Ondra. Paul Robinson, Mickey Page, and Dai, chose to traverse left along the lip of the boulder for a different topout. The 'left variant,' as it's become known, is considered of similar difficulty and everyone seems to agree that you get V15 points for either method.
Dai Koyomada finishing up the lip traverse of the left variant. Photo: Dai's blog