Sasha Digiulian Sends Lucifer (5.14c)

Sasha Digiulian has made the first female ascent of Lucifer (5.14c) at Kentucky’s Red River Gorge.  Similar to her recent ascent of Southern Smoke (5.14c) it took Sasha just three days and a total of six tries to put it together.  But unlike Southern Smoke, the crux section of Lucifer is relatively short and bouldery requiring power on small pockets and edges.  The list of ascentionists is still quite small for the route, including big names like Mike Doyle (FA 2006), Chris Sharma, Sean McColl, Adam Taylor, and Brad Weaver. 

Sasha on Southern Smoke (5.14c)  Photo: Magnus Midtboe's blog

Sasha’s boyfriend, Magnus Midtboe, had this to say on his blog:  “Another great day for Sasha, and for American climbing! After the rain stopped today, Sasha decided she wanted to give Lucifer a go! Yesterday she fell off the last really hard move on the route, which made waiting for the rain to stop even more unbearable.  After warming up Sasha fell off the last hard move – just like yesterday. Though it seemed more like a warm up try.”  Sasha was able to send on her next effort.

In just a period of one week, Sasha has climbed Southern Smoke (5.14c), Lucifer (5.14c), and onsighted both Last of the Bohicans (5.13d) and Omaha Beach (5.14a).  This is certainly the most productive week ever had at the Red River Gorge by a female (or male!) and one of the most impressive in the history of female sport climbing.  With the ability to climb 5.14c in just six tries, Sasha is certainly capable of taking it to the next level and it will be interesting to see when her first 5.14d comes.  5.14d has only been climbed by one female with Josune Bereziartu’s 2002 ascent of Bain de Sang and her 2005 ascent of Bimbaluna (5.14d/5.15a).*

*Ed’s note:  This final statement is made after much internet research and I can’t remember ever hearing of other female 5.14d ascents.  Feel free to correct in the comments section if I am mistaken.

More pictures of Sasha on Southern Smoke can be found at Magnus Midtboe’s blog.