Sachi Amma: Pachamama (5.15a)

posted by dpm on 12/18/2011

 

It’s always interesting to see what World Cup competition climbers can accomplish after the circuit ends.  For serious competitors like Sachi, the end of the comp season offers a little vacation time to climb outdoors before another vicious cycle of training begins.  Sachi had a great World Cup season, finishing third in the overall ranking.  Last year, around this same time, he traveled to Oliana where he was able to send Papichulo (5.15a).  This year, he set his sights on Papichulo’s harder neighbor Pachamama (5.15a), both Chris Sharma creations.  On his 8a.nu scorecard, Sachi commented, “The best route in my life.  I spend 7 days last year, 7 days this year.  Harder than Papichulo.  I am sooo happy.”

Sachi on Pachamama.  Photo: Breceljnik Jure/8a.nu

While Papichulo has seen at least five repeats, this was only the second ascent of PachamamaWhen Sharma established the route in 2009 his thought was that it was significantly more difficult but less his style than Papichulo.  Ethan Pringle seems to agree.  In a virtual high-five to Sachi on 8a.nu he commented, “Good job Sachi!   I've been on this route. It is really, really hard. Must be borderline 9b (5.15b)”