Sachi Amma Climbs Two V15’s in a Day

posted by dpm on 05/14/2014

Sachi Amma reports on Facebook that he climbed Hydrangea (V15) and Babel (V14/15) in a single day at Shiobara, Japan. “I send Hydrangea V15 and Babel V14/15 both today,” he wrote. “I was wondering to climb both of it someday when I was student. But everything happened today!!! I am soooooooo happy.”

Sachi Amma bouldering at Shiobara, Japan. Photo: Sachi's Facebook

According to the database at hardclimbs, this was the 4th ascent of Hydrangea, a problem established by Dai Koyamada in 2005 and suggested as a V16. Prior to Sachi’s ascent, Hydrangea was repeated by Daniel Woods and Motochika Nagao. The grade has since settled in at V15.

Sachi’s ascent of Babel was the first repeat of the line, another Dai Koyamada problem put up in 2007 and suggested as solid V15. Sachi is suggesting V14/15 for this one.

The problems at Shiobara are long endurance-oriented problems on tiny pockets and edges which appear to suit Sachi, a climber known more for his sport climbing than bouldering. Amma is the current world cup champion having won overall gold for lead climbing in both 2012 and 2013. He climbs relatively little outdoors, choosing to mostly focus on competitions, but has still made some impressive outdoor ascents like Pachamama (5.15a), La Rambla (5.15a), and, of course, sending two V15's in a day! 

Click the image to watch Motochika Nagao on the third ascent of Hydrangea (V15).