Ryan Palo: Second Ascent of Shoot ‘em Up (5.14b)

posted by dpm on 06/03/2011

 

Ryan Palo has completed the second ascent of Shoot ‘em Up at Smith Rocks, Oregon.  The route, located in the Aggro Gulley was an old project that for many years was deemed too chossy, hard, or painful.  In 2009, the line saw its first ascent by visiting Frenchman Pierre Bollinger. 

 

Ryan "trigger finger" Palo sinks it deep on Shoot 'em Up (5.14b)  Photo: Tara Reynvaan

 

The lower section, the crux, is characterized by some serious pulls on one-finger pockets.  On his 8a.nu scorecard, Ryan commented: “I may have done permanent damage to both my middle fingers.”  Palo continues to work his way through some of America’s hardest sport routes and offers some interesting insight on his blog, humorously subtitled; “America’s Most Emaciated.”  His blog is worth a read for climbers who “can’t kneebar good and wanna learn other beta good too.”

 

Click here to see how to climb 12 feet of rock with just two fingers.        

 

Exiting the crux.  Photo: Tara Reynvaan