Rustam Gelmanov: Action Directe (5.14d)

posted by dpm on 03/26/2012


Rustam Gelmanov. Photo:

Rustam Gelmanov has sent the world’s benchmark 9a (5.14d), Action Directe. Gelmanov is the first Russian to climb the iconic route in Germany’s Frankenjura. Action Directe was the world’s first 5.14d, established by Wolfgang Gullich in 1991. Since then it has seen at least 16 ascents though it still represents a rite of passage for many hard sport climbers and the list of climber’s to have sent it reads like a who’s who of hard climbing: Iker Pou, Dave Graham, Dai Koyomada, Adam Ondra, and Patxi Usobiaga to name just a few. Click the image below for one of my favorite videos that captures the attraction of such a famous route.

Rich Simpson on Action Directe. Click the image for a great video.

Source: up-climbing