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Remy Bergasse Opens 5.14d in Roquevaire, France

posted by dpm on 01/23/2011

Remy Bergasse has completed the first ascent of DTN (5.14d).  The route is located near Marseille, France at the cliff Roquevaire. It begins with a 5.13c intro that leads, with no rest, into a V11 boulder problem before the chains. This was Remy’s first of the grade and he feels, compared to other 5.14c’s that he’s completed, that this was the next step up. 

 
video sequence from Remy's blog
The name DTN stands for Déséquilibre Technique Nature which loosely translates to Imbalance Technical Nature, an allusion to the technical style of climbing on the route. Remy remarked on his blog that this line was somewhat of an ‘easy’ version of the true line; a 5.14a intro into the same crux that may provide a link in the 5.15a range dubbed Apotheose.  Look for video of the ascent soon!