Proud Repeats of Mourning Glory (5.14) and Musta Been High (5.13c R) in Colorado

posted by dpm on 04/29/2014

Two Colorado Front Range test-pieces just got some notable repeats. Last Friday, Heather Weidner clipped the chains on Musta Been High, a notoriously scary 5.13c trad route in Eldorado Canyon. Weidner has a great write-up on her blog about the ascent including some history of the route. Eric Decaria was the first to lead the route in 2001 and since then it’s seen a few repeats including one in 2008 by Heather’s husband Chris who suggested she try it. After eight days of work and eighteen tries, the route went down, but it didn’t come easy. Heather writes on her blog:

“Just before my first lead Chris said, “There’s one place you don’t want to fall.”

And so where did I fall?  Exactly where he said not to.  I climbed through the toughest section and placed my birthday blue Lowe-ball a few feet above the fixed pin.  My balance was off, I was pumped, and the next thing I knew I was in the air waiting for the piece to pop.”

Read more here.

Musta Been High was Heather's first 5.13 trad route but she's a strong sport climber as one of few American women to climb 5.14. Click the image to watch a profile video with footage of her first 5.13d, Power Windows at Mt. Potosi. 


Yesterday, In Clear Creek Canyon, Jon Cardwell and Carlo Traversi claimed the 2nd and 3rd ascents respectively of Mourning Glory, considered to be one of the area’s hardest routes. The bouldery roof route saw a first ascent by Daniel Woods in the spring of 2012 and touted as possibly the Front Range’s first 5.14d. Daniel suggested a 5.14c/d grade but Carlo suggested 5.14b for the route on his 8a scorecard and commented, "3rd ascent. 3rd try. Really nice bouldery route. Nice job putting this one up Daniel!" 

Should we split the difference and call it 5.14c?