posted by dpm on 10/31/2011
Yesterday the Petzl Roc Trip in Getu China came to an end. We’re still waiting to hear the full report from Petzl but it seems like one of the most significant ascents fell to the iron claws of Spanish master Dani Andrada. Dani bolted and sent an eight pitch 5.14b called Corazon de Ensueno. According to an interview on the Petzl RocTrip website, Dani said the climb took him 11 days of effort. Most of that was spent bolting the route that ascends over 200 meters up and out the underbelly of the massive arch. After bolting most of it solo on aid, it took him three more days to work the moves. Then, on the final day, he sent the route entirely clean with Chris Sharma belaying and following. He completed a no-falls ascent of the entire climb in the finest style possible. The line-up of pitches is as follows: P1 (5.13c), P2 (5.13d), P3 (5.13a), P4 (5.11d), P5 (5.14a), P6 (5.14b), P7 (5.13a/b), P8 (5.13c). Dani remarked that, " This is definitely the best climb I have ever created. It's hard, long, and so unique." That means a lot coming from someone that has bolted hundreds of pitches on some of the best rock in the world.
Dani Andrada on his new route in China. Photo: Petzl/Sam Bie. More photos can be found at the Petzl site.