posted by dpm on 08/10/2014
As any student of professional climbing knows, “efficiency” is Adam Ondra’s middle name. Ondra (Czech Republic) efficiently breezed through the lower section of the Finals route and fought the pump on the difficult overhanging upper section to coolly construct a sequence which stumped runner-up Sean McColl (Canada) at the latest World Cup lead event in Imst, Austria. Whereas McColl faced outward to set up an awkward dynamic stab at the distant crimp atop the final rectangular feature on the overhanging section, Ondra calmly kept his beating heart away from the synchronized clapping of human sloth enthusiasts below with a smart match which set up a smooth lunge to this top crimp, a move which secured his spot atop the podium. Ondra (181 points) still sits four climbers below Austrian native Jakob Schubert (310) in the current overall World Cup Lead men’s rankings. Sachi Amma, the previous World Cup Lead event winner in Briancon, France dropped to fourth after failing to compete in Imst for undisclosed reasons, though he certainly wasn't taking a break from hard climbing.
For the women, Austrian native Magdalena Rock produced an equally efficient climb, conserving enough energy to rest amid an intimidating technical roof section which stumped the majority of the international field, including Mina Markovic (Slovenia). Speed turned out to be the crux of the competition when the graceful Jain Kim followed Rock and Markovic’s performances with an impressive climb of her own, creatively toe-hooking her way across the roof to touch two holds higher than Rock, but unfortunately timing out just one hold short. Kim remains atop the leaderboard (380), but Rock positioned herself nicely with this latest victory, now sitting only 40 points behind Kim (340).
The twenty-year-old Magdalena Rock hopes to add a World Cup Lead series Gold on to her young resume which features Golds amongst the Juniors field at the World Youth Championship in Canada (2013), the European Youth Championship in Imst (2013), and the European Youth Championship in France (2012).
With Kim’s time mishap closing out the latest World Cup Lead series event, the world’s best sport climbers now cross their chalked fingers for the Lead World Championship in Gijon, Spain on September 8-14. The Speed and Paraclimbing World Championships will also be held in this picturesque coastal Spanish city.
The World Championships are held every two years and this year the Lead event falls smack dab in the middle of the eight-round World Cup Lead series. For a full schedule of the 2014 International Federation of Sport Climbing events, click here.
And of course, for the full Imst Semi-Finals and Finals videos check out the video below. Ondra, Rock, and Kim’s ascents begin around 0:33:00, 1:53:00, and 2:08:00, respectively.
Story by JRobz