Nalle Hukkataival: First Repeat of Oliphant's Dawn (V14?)

posted by dpm on 07/30/2012

 

This week, filmmaker Clement Perotti, brings us his fifth installment of his Rockland's video. In an email, Clement made mention that Nalle Hukkataival has claimed the 2nd ascent of Oliphant's Dawn, a very difficult problem put up by Fred Nicole in 2000 and suggested to be in the V13-V15 range. The problem had been tried by many over the years including Adam Ondra who wrote on his Black Diamond blog, "It consists of three moves on incredibly small crimps on a 30-degree overhang and after one hour of sessioning I walked away having done none of the moves. And I heard that bunch of people walked away with same result." Clement noted that Nalle declined to suggest an immediate grade, "but said that it felt like his hardest climb in a long time." Look for video of Nalle's ascent next week courtesy of Clement.

Paul Robinson on his new Capetown V13. Photo: Paul's blog

In Capetown, Paul Robinson put up another difficult crimp problem called No Church in the Wild (V13). This ascent fills out a steady stream of V9 and V10 first ascents in the Capetown area for Paul.

Click the image below for this week's installment. Check it out.

Click the image for Rocklands Post 5. An all-star cast is down there including Daniel Woods, Dave Graham, and Nalle Hukkataival. Especially interesting is the split-screen footage of Daniel and Nalle both sending Golden Shadows (V14) but using completely different beta for the finishing sequence.