posted by dpm on 04/11/2013
Nalle Hukkataival has pulled off possibly the third ascent of Klem Loskot's Bügeleisen (V14) in Maltatal, Austria. Bügeleisen is one of those mythical, old-school problems that has retained its reputation for both quality and difficulty. It was established by Klem Loskot in 2001, then reportedly repeated by German Markus Bock (though the author of the video below casts doubt on that claim.)
The beautiful steep wall of Bügeleisen (V14). Photo: Nalle's blog
Last week, Nalle wrote on his blog that he'd done the problem in two parts but that wet holds were preventing the send. He also noted that he'd done the moves to the sit-start project which will surely bump the difficulty into the 8c/V15 or harder realm. Today he reported that, after battling poor conditions and illness, he'd repeated the problem from the traditional start and that it was "probably the most epic battle (he'd) ever had with any boulder."
About two weeks ago, Nalle was in Fontainebleau, France where he also managed a 2nd ascent of the 8c traverse Misti, as well as the 8b/V13 La Théorie des Jeux.