The Mystery

posted by dpm on 01/29/2009

Alex Johnson is back again and this time it is in California.  Johnson has been in Bishop, California dispatching all the amazingly hard lines in the Buttermilks.  Her list includes two amazing 25ft highballs, The Fall Guy (v9) and Evilution to the Lip (v10).  Also during her stay she made short work of area classics like Checkerboard (v8), Soul Slinger (v9),High Plains Drifter (v7), and Seven Spanish Angels (v7).  Her week reached a highpoint with her ascent of The Mystery (v12), an old SHawn Diamond Problem that traverses the entire face of the Grandma Peabody boulder.  Here is what Alex had to say about her trip…

photos by Kelly McBride

“I just spent two great weeks in Bishop, and had one of the most fun climbing trips ever! It is really a gorgeous area; the weather was perfect and the climbing is phenomenal. One of the problems that I was psyched on during my time at the Buttermilks was The Mystery (V12).

photos by Kelly McBride

The crux of The Mystery involves a full extension move around an overhanging bulge to a crimp, and holding that position as you walk your feet through to get a bicycle with a toe hook. It’s a very powerful and left-arm intensive problem, so only a few really good tries are possible before you become exhausted from holding your body weight on your fingers. My first day working it, I spent most of my time figuring out the movement and body position to rearrange my feet at the crux. I had one really good attempt the first day where I fell at the last move. The second day was frustratingly much worse than the first. After a rest day, I went back and finished it in three or four goes that day!”

 

photos by Kelly McBride

Alex is still on the road and plans on hitting the Hueco Rock Rodeo in February and then possibly returning to Bishop during spring break. 

photos by Kelly McBride

 

DPM will continue to follow her trip….

 

 

photos by Kelly McBride