posted by dpm on 11/06/2012
Although the initial wave of destruction has tapered off a bit, the Red is still being destroyed at a steady pace. Daniel Woods, tapping into the powers of the Adam Ondra belay, flashed Pure Imagination (now regarded as 5.14c). Although this may not sound like such a big deal in relation to recent events, Daniel is now just the 4th person in the history of climbing to do a 5.14c first try after Patxi Usobiaga (onsight of Bizi Euskaraz in 2007), Ramon Julian (onsight of The Crew in 2011) and Adam Ondra (fourteen 5.14c onsights.)
Jon Cardwell has claimed the 5th ascent of Southern Smoke Direct (5.14d) after Adam Taylor, Adam Ondra (flash), Daniel Woods and Cedric Lachat. The Red's hardest route has been climbed four times this week!
Melissa Le Neve on Fifty Words for Pump (5.14b/c). Photo: Aurelien Tixier/Melissa's blog
For the ladies, Melissa Le Neve of France has finished off Fifty Words for Pump (5.14b or c depending on who you ask). This is the first female ascent of the route. She also recently flashed Black Gold (5.13c) and onsighted UltraPerm (5.13d) in addition to her earlier redpoint Transworld Depravity (5.14a).
Since Adam Ondra sent the Red's three hardest routes in a cumulative three tries he's set about bolting a new line at the Chocolate Factory. According to a few photos and a description posted by Peter Lundgren, Adam is regarding it as a "lifetime project." Sources state that the new line has approximately four V14 boulder problems on it. Click the image below to see more of Peter's photos of the new project.
Ondra's new project at the Chocolate Factory. Photo: Peter Lundgren. Click the image to visit Peter's album.