Mirko Caballero Sends Rarely Repeated Ubermensch (5.14a)

posted by dpm on 12/17/2012


11-year old Mirko Caballero is ending his 2012 year right with a rare ascent of Chris Sharma’s Ubermensch (5.14a).  The line, located in Pinnacles, California, ascends a tricky overhanging arête on small crimps and wide pinches and requires tight body-tension and solid route reading.  The problem, originally bolted by Sterling Keene and first sent by Chris Sharma when he was thirteen, is a rarely ascended 5.14 in California that has not seen much action, possibly due to its lack of exposure in climbing media. Mirko has been making quick work of many of the Pinnacle's hard lines including an ascent of another classic, Lard Butt, a 5.13c that involves a dyno over a bulge from two really bad crimps to cap the route off.

Mirko on Ubermensch (5.14a). Photo: Anthony Lapomardo/DPM

On his 8a scorecard Mirko commented about Ubermensch, “Hard short but bouldery route. Initially 8b(5.13d) by Chris Sharma, but it's conglomerate rock, and several holds have broken off, so it's now considered hard 8b+ (5.14a)."Caballero has been on a tear recently hiking several hard routes in Smith Rock including an ascent of Chemical Ali (5.14a) and flash of Rude Boys (5.13c) earlier this year.  He will be heading to Bishop over the break with the hopes that the cold temps will allow him some double-digit problems.

Photo: Anthony Lapomardo/DPM

Video footage of Mirko on Ubermensch will run on DPM in January.

Story and photos by Anthony Lapomardo