Matty Hong: First Ascent of Bad Girls Club (5.14+) Updated!

posted by dpm on 08/22/2011

La Sportiva athlete Matty Hong has claimed the first ascent of Bad Girls Club in Rifle, Colorado’s Wicked Cave.  The route was originally bolted by Joe Kinder who worked the line last year before heading off on his round-the-world tour.  This season the route was getting heavy traffic by a few individuals including Matty and Keller Rinaudo.  The line follows a barely-there path up the wall left of The Crew and a few hundred feet right of Matty’s dad Steve Hong’s route Planet X (5.14b).  In an interview with Climberism, Joe had this to say about his project:  It’s probably 9a or 9a+ (5.14d/5.15a), It is sick man.  It is absolutely a monster route.  It’s one of those walls where people are like, “There’s no holds, there’s no holds, there’s no holds!”  And I’m like, “Forget that, there are holds, just watch!”  Although it takes time for a grade to settle in, the 5.14d grade has been speculated for this route which would make it Rifle’s first 5.14d.  Congrats Matty!  Last year DPM did an interview with young Matty Hong after he sent the Hueco Tanks testpiece EsperanzaRead it here:

 

Matty Hong in Bishop.  Photo: Adam Markert

 

Matty was kind enough to reply to our questions and offers the following information about Bad Girl's Club.

 

 

First I have to say huge thanks to Joe Kinder for equipping the route, cleaning it, and opening it up for me and many others to try.  He put a ton of work into that route and it definitely shows!

The route consists of 3 sections separated by two rests, each being slightly harder than the last.  But for me it all came down to the last boulder problem at the top.  Originally there was a better hold up there, a decent undercling to make the last throw.  But with some traffic the hold broke and made the top quite a bit harder, adding a grade to the difficulty.

After a climbing trip I worked the route as soon as I was back in Colorado for about 10 days.  I was really psyched to do this thing.  With tons of support from my parents Steve Hong and Karin Budding, and all of my friends in the canyon it was able to go down!

As for the grade...... Who knows.... I’m sure Jon Cardwell and Joe will do that thing ASAP. They can decide. They know better than I do.

 

Thanks Matty and again, congrats!

 

Matty on Bad Girls Club.  Photos courtesy of Matty Hong.