Magnus Midtbo climbs 5.15b in Rodellar

posted by dpm on 08/29/2010

After more than 3 weeks of work Norwegian Magnus Midtbo has claimed the second ascent of the 5.15b sit-start to Dani Andrada's hybrid boulder/route Ali-Hulk extension.

Magnus bouldering in Norway, Photo: David Lama

The route climbs out the belly of the impressive Ali-Baba cave in Rodellar, Spain.  Magnus notes that the first bit of the route is a long boulder problem but "When I got to the rest at the end of Ali-Baba sit start I got a rope clipped into my harness with a carabiner."  

The entire route is the most difficult and longest link-up in the cave.  It starts with a V9 boulder problem that leads into 80 feet of 5.14b roof climbing.  The route finishes with 25 more feet of 5.14a that requires a rope and a belay.

Magnus wrote on his blog:  I was so close yesterday, so I knew that I could do it today if I wasn't too tired. I rested the whole day as usual and I did it on my first try of the day. I felt very strong - it didn't feel as desperate as before!

 

 

Dani Andrada on his route Ali-Hulk.  Photo: Pete O'Donavan