posted by dpm on 08/29/2010
After more than 3 weeks of work Norwegian Magnus Midtbo has claimed the second ascent of the 5.15b sit-start to Dani Andrada's hybrid boulder/route Ali-Hulk extension.
Magnus bouldering in Norway, Photo: David Lama
The route climbs out the belly of the impressive Ali-Baba cave in Rodellar, Spain. Magnus notes that the first bit of the route is a long boulder problem but "When I got to the rest at the end of Ali-Baba sit start I got a rope clipped into my harness with a carabiner."
The entire route is the most difficult and longest link-up in the cave. It starts with a V9 boulder problem that leads into 80 feet of 5.14b roof climbing. The route finishes with 25 more feet of 5.14a that requires a rope and a belay.
Magnus wrote on his blog: I was so close yesterday, so I knew that I could do it today if I wasn't too tired. I rested the whole day as usual and I did it on my first try of the day. I felt very strong - it didn't feel as desperate as before!
Dani Andrada on his route Ali-Hulk. Photo: Pete O'Donavan