Magnus Midtbø: F**k the System (5.14d)

posted by dpm on 12/20/2011


Magnus Midtbø has done F**k the System (5.14d) in Santa Linya, Spain.  He notes on his blog, “Today I surprised myself by sending F**k the System (9a). I tried the route briefly when I was here two weeks ago, and then it felt like it would take me a lot longer. The time I spent at home resting seems to have helped. Now I’m ready to try something harder!”  Having previously climbed the 5.15b hybrid route Ali Hulk sit start/extension it will be interesting to see what Magnus has in mind.  Watch the Ali Hulk video here.

Magnus on F**k the System.  Photo: Henning Wang/Magnus' blog

Although the summer season is still a long way off, Magnus’ development in his home country of Norway’s Flatanger Cave was interesting to watch.  It sounds like there are some very futuristic projects that can be seen in this video.  Here's another video of Magnus showing what it takes in the training room to climb 5.15b.  

Also noteworthy is Hannah Midtbø’s (Magnus’ sister) ascent of Fabelita (5.14b), also in Santa Linya.  According to her 8a scorecard, this was her first of the grade and her first 5.14 overall.  Having previously done four 5.13d’s, she skipped the 5.14a grade and went big.