posted by dpm on 12/05/2012
It's not a fluke or an exception anymore; little kids are sending big all over the world. First up is Boulder, Colorado's Team ABC trip to Hueco Tanks over Thanksgiving. All team members are age 11 to 18.
Team ABC in Hueco. Photo: ABC blog
Some highlight ascents go to:
Timmy Dolan and Michael Bartley: Fern Roof (V10)
Megan Mascarenas: Crimping Christ on the Cross (V10)
Matt Lubar: Free Willy and Full Service (both V10) and Dark Age (V11)
Austin Lankford: Free Willy and Crimping Christ on the Cross (both V10) and Un Point de Bleau dans un Hueco (V11)
Isabelle Goodacre: Fern Roof (V10)
Brooke Raboutou: Sunshine (V11), Crimping Christ on the Cross (V10) on the same day. Dragonfly Low (V9)
Margo Hayes: Sunshine (V11) Crimping Christ on the Cross (V10) Ultramega (V8)
Nick Lyon: Free Willy (V10) Un Point de Bleau dans un Hueco (V11) Mojo (V10)
Shawn Raboutou: Barefoot on Sacred Ground (V12) Bush League (V10) Mojo (V10)
Michael O’Rourke: Free Willy (V10) El Techo de Tres B (V11) MoMojo (V11) and Eckstein (V11)
Stefan Lavender :: Dark Age (V11) Eckstein (V11) Wonder Hole Dyno (V10) Un Point de Bleau dans un Hueco (V11) Governator (V10) Mojo (V10)
Brook Raboutou on Crimping Christ on the Cross (V10). Read the full story and see some more great pictures at the ABC Blog.
12-year-old Harry Edwards of Holbrook, Arizona took a trip to the Red River Gorge this past fall and racked up an impressive ticklist. His ascents included: Gods Own Stone(5.14a), Omaha Beach (5.14a) Ultra Perm (5.13d), Swingline (5.13d), and The Madness (5.13c). He also onsighted Flour Power (5.13b) and Dirty Smelly Hippie (5.13b) as well as a number of 5.13a's. The interesting part of these ascents is what happened beforehand for young Harry. Having not traveled extensively, this trip to the Red gave Harry a better understanding of consensus grades all over the country and he realized that he may have actually established a 5.14a route at the age of 10! In an email, Harry's dad writes:
"For Christmas in 2010, I bolted a route for Harry in a canyon close to Holbrook (Arizona) which I believed would take him several years of effort. He went to work on it tenaciously. In April 2011, after approximately 80 tries, he succeeded in redpointing “The Christmas Project.” I can’t do many of the moves on it. Harry calls it the hardest route he’s ever done, far exceeding the difficulty of the consensus 13ds which he has climbed in three different states, none of which took him more than two consecutive days of effort.
Harry says the Christmas Project is probably harder than both God's Own Stone and Omaha Beach (both 5.14a), and I have no reason to doubt his assessment. The route ascends a series of tiny edges and shallow pockets up a slightly overhanging wall. The final crux involves a match on a credit card edge. It’s plain hard."
Harry on the Christmas Project. Photo courtesy of Rob Edwards.
11-year-old Mirko Caballero of Los Gatos, California took a trip to Smith Rock, Oregon and also came away with a heavy ticklist that included:
Rude Boys (5.13c) flash
Oxygen (5.13b) 2nd go
Slit Your Wrists (5.13b) 2nd go
Taco Chips (5.13a) onsight
Churning in the Sky (5.13a) onsight
and many more "easier" routes.
Mirko Caballero on übermensch 5.14 at Pinnacles, Ca. Photo: Anthony Lapomardo
And driving it hom on the European front...At Misja Pec in Slovenia, 15-year-old Ruben Firnenburg and 16-year-old Jakob Heber Norum both sent Strelovod (5.14b).