posted by dpm on 12/06/2012
It's the start of the good season in Spain and Japanese World Cup climber Sachi Amma is one of the first to pull off a good send. Amma recently redpointed the world famous La Rambla (5.15a) in Siurana. La Rambla was originally established by Alex Huber in 1994 and given the grade of 5.14c. Ramon Julian extended the route to a higher anchor and skipped a logical resting jug to make the route 5.15a. La Rambla was Adam Ondra's first 5.15a route and he had some interesting things to say about the route in an interview in Issue 22 suggesting that it is a contender for the first 5.15 in the world. Read the interview with Adam here.
Also in Spain, Norway's Hannah Midtbø sent La Novena Puerta (5.14c) in Santa Linya. On her 8a scorecard, Hannah recalls getting spanked on the route last year then adds, "Very cool to feel progression and see how the body adapts after working it... and then actually sending it, feels soo good:) amazing route, one of the best in Santa Linya. A real joy to climb."
Hannah's brother Magnus is also in Spain where he sent Duele la Realidad (5.14c) at Oliana. It will be interesting to see if Magnus returns to Santa Linya for another stab at the 2nd ascent of Chris Sharma's unrepeated 5.15b route Neanderthal. Magnus worked the route extensively last spring and as he got closer to a send the cave got increasingly wet and warm. He was forced to abandon the project for the summer season.