posted by dpm on 12/22/2008
The climbing around Santa Linya in Spain has seen a lot of attention lately and rightfully so. The limestone cliffs are still being developed and the amazing sport routes have drawn the attention of rock climbing’s top athletes.
Notable is the cave known as Disblia. This cave is said to be the best single pitch sport crag in the world for difficult routes. Local Spaniard Dani Andrada has spent countless hours and money bolting the overhanging behemoth Disblia and other areas around Santa Linya. His hard work and vision has opened up lines in the area like Fuck the System and Open Your Mind both 14d (9a). Recently, Dani added another 14d (9a) to the wall called Analogica Natural. To date, Disblia contains fifteen routes 14d (9a)!
The number of hard routes is attracting a lot of attention from some of climbing’s top athletes. Dave Graham is getting back into sport climbing shape in the Santa Linya area and will be in Spain for the next month with Jon Cardwell and Andre de Felice. Dave spoke about one of his more recent 14c sends, Encerrado, with DPM. Encerrado has an intense boulder problem crux followed by pumpy climbing above. “My 5.10 Dragons are my secret weapon,” Dave said in his animated style when speaking about Encerrado. “It has one amazing crux move where you get really extended and jump into and undercling. It’s fun!”
Dave is in Spain after nearly a year of bouldering full time. Dave, like others, is here to try one of the hardest routes in the area, Chris Sharma’s Papi Chulo 15a. Dave has redpointed three routes 14c (8c+) this month trying to establish the fitness for Papi Chulo.
Chris Sharma is back in Spain too. The area’s high concentration of difficult sport routes is the perfect place for Chris to train. His newest line Golpe de estado may be his hardest to date. It is tentatively graded 15b (9b).
Last week Chris onsighted Paper Mullat and Humildes Pa Casa, both 14b (8c), adding to already impressive onsight list. Look for more news to come out of this Spanish climbing mecca in the near future.