posted by dpm on 12/07/2012
The Black Diamond Journal reports that their tech rep, Canadian crack specialist JP Ouellet, had a very productive trip to the Moab region in Utah. He was able to flash The Vadge (5.13-) and claim the first ascent (onsight) of Fisting the Crack (5.13- roof crack) before honing in on a harder project.
While hiking in Long's Canyon near Potash Road outside of Moab, JP found a stunning, but slightly dirty, 45-meter straight in finger crack splitter. He describes the route in the Black Diamond Journal:
"The core of the crack is fingers and thin finger (mostly .3 and .4 Camalots with a baggy .5 Camalot "bitch" section. The route is guarded by two hard cruxes: one at the start and one right at the end, five feet from the anchor. The route was pretty painful for me so I wasn't able to try it more than once every two days. I ended up sending a couple days before the end of the trip. I called it the Mexican Snow Fairy (5.13+). It's one of the hardest finger cracks I've climbed around Moab. PSYCHED!"
JP on Mexican Snow Fairy (5.13+). Photo: Andrew Burr/Black Diamond.