Jonathan Siegrist: 5.14a Onsight and Flash

posted by dpm on 07/07/2011


It seems that many climbers are heading north to escape the mid-summer heat and attend the International Climber's Festival in Lander, Wyoming.  Jonathan Siegrist set aside a few days to revisit Ten Sleep, Wyoming before heading on to Lander where he is one of the featured speakers at the ICF.  After a day of warming up, Jonathan stepped up to Doomsday (5.14a) and climbed to the chains with no beta and no falls.  The next day, with beta from local route developers Alli Rainey and Kevin Wilkinson, he flashed F'd in the A (5.14a). 


Jonathan Siegrist embracing the western leg of his roadtrip.  Photo:


While Doomsday certainly lies at the low end of the 5.14a grade it is a remarkable onsight nonetheless with tricky, power-sapping moves down low and a final thought-provoking crux near the chains.  F'd in the A, however, is an altogether different story and is quite solid for the grade.  Listed in the last edition of the Ten Sleep guide as a 5.14b/c project, it was first climbed in 2009 by James Litz and downgraded to 5.14a.  Anyone that is familiar with Litz's grading knows that, if anything, it's solid. 


Stefan Lavender on F'd in the A (5.14a)  Photo: DPM


The route is consistently bouldery and difficult for 60 feet, with only marginal shakes, before finally easing up at the very last bolt.  Both routes are amazing climbs that require not just power and endurance but technical rock reading skill.  Jonathan's ability to make split-second decisions and move fluidly through difficult terrain has proven him to be one of America's top onsight climbers and one of very few to have onsighted the grade.       


Jonathan seems to be in top form and this is just the beginning of his country-wide road trip.  He has already made significant ascents at Smith Rock and Little Si, Washington and we'll likely be seeing more proud ascents throughout the next year.  Follow Jonathan's travels on his blog where he'll certainly post up more info about his Wyoming trip in the coming days.  If you're one of the lucky few attending the ICF, check out Jonathan's slideshow at 7:00 P.M. at the Lander Valley High School in Lander, Wyoming.   Get there early for sacred burritos served up by the Solid Rock Climbers for Christ.