Johanna Ernst: Open Your Mind (5.14c)

posted by dpm on 04/12/2012

Johanna Ernst. Photo: Wikipedia

Planet Mountain reports that Johanna Ernst has climbed her first 5.14c with Open Your Mind in Spain’s Santa Linya cave. Ernst has been, and still is, one of the world’s top competition climbers with multiple World Cup wins including an overall first place in 2008 and 2009. In addition to her send of Open Your Mind, she also sent La Fabellita (5.14b). It wasn’t long ago that it was possible to count the number of 5.14c female climbers on one hand. That list has grown very rapidly with recent ascents of the grade by Daila Ojeda, Alizee Dufraisse, Caroline Ciavaldini, Sasha Digiulian, and Nina Caprez…all within the last two months or so. Click the image below for video of Magnus Midtboe climbing Open Your Mind Direct which adds a more difficult direct start to the route Johanna just did.

Click for video of Magnus Midtboe on Open Your Mind Direct (5.14d)

Speaking of Magnus, he too is at the Santa Linya cave and is fully committed to climbing Chris Sharma’s Neanderthal (5.15b). Neanderthal was Sharma’s third 5.15b first ascent after Jumbo Love and Golpe de Estado and has remained unrepeated since he clipped the chains in 2009. Magnus has been struggling with some wet rock on the route but is waiting it out. He writes on his blog, “If the wet holds only could dry up, I’m ready to give it ground-up tries. My only problem now is that everyone is leaving. I desperately need someone to climb with! But I will do what it takes. I’m not leaving empty handed this time. I said “no retreat no surrender” and I’m gonna stick to that statement. I’ll camp out in the cave for weeks if I have to.”

If you’re climbing in the Santa Linya area, offer Magnus a belay. It sounds like he needs it. If you’d like to see some footage of Magnus on TV and you just happen to live in Norway, NRK shot some video that will be broadcast on Sportsrevyen Sunday. It will also be posted on their website which we’ll link to when they post it. Good luck Magnus.